Boler Voyageur 1300 Reno - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-16-2015, 06:42 PM   #61
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You are right, like I said we are minimalists. We could have charged the ipods and tablets and digital camera while camping but my minivan was driven almost everyday so I just used it to top up the devices.
I did check the voltage on the little panel last spring but I can't remember what it read - it was low number though!
When I bought the battery, I wasn't sure what we would need or use so I set it up as a base platform that I could add to if I needed to. I seriously thought about the 40W solar panel but I thought it might be overkill. Canadian Tire had them on half price last month and I thought about it again... Just because I don't need it doesn't mean I don't always want it!
As for the bed Johnny, we kept our dinette set up as a bed all summer, never sat at the table once. I put a piece of cedar under the cushions at the opening (where the table and benches leave a gap) so that I wouldn't feel like I was falling out of bed every night.
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:56 PM   #62
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According to some research the little battery maintainer that I used has a max Output of 133mAmps @ 15 Volts.
It has a diode built in for overcharge protection (ha ha) and it can be wired directly to the battery. it came with a little pull apart plug and I just had that hanging out of the battery box.
Sure it didn't do much but as Franswa pointed out, I didn't use much power either (and yes Franswa I could have used AA batteries, in fact I also bought the same solar panel for my kids treehouse lights which are powered by 3 AA batteries).
Jay
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:22 PM   #63
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Great build, turned out beautifully
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:29 AM   #64
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Anything further as to the date of your Boler? Here's a shot of our '84 showing the larger door window that I have seen in all the later 84’s through to Pauls 88 that he had prior to obtaining his square Boler. The smaller window like yours was used in the 82-3 series. Any chance that someone used the wrong number punch?
Whatever, I love its uniqueness and wouldn't change it for the world.
Jim



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Old 01-18-2016, 04:33 PM   #65
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I don't think I ever noticed the larger window before, that is a pretty interesting twist. That would suggest mine is an older model... I will admit I kind of relaxed a bit on my search for answers.
I don't know if anyone else can tell from serial numbers but mine is 2M9B130021 (with the 21 in my owners manual circled in pencil). According to my owners manual and the plate on the body as well as the story passed down from owner to owner is that the trailer was sold as new in July 1992 from Carlson Sports in NorthBay Ontario.
On the back page of my manual (The Owner's Reference Log) the original owner wrote the following:
Model name: 1991 Boler TRLR
Model Year: (suspiciously blank)
Serial Number 2M9B130021
Date of Purchase: July 1992
Dealership Name: Carlson Sports

The date is a curious part of the story of our Boler but we love it whatever year it was manufactured!
Thanks for the nice comments Jim.
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:53 PM   #66
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thanks for the compliments Chris.
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Old 04-02-2016, 02:11 PM   #67
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Drawer Slides

My redesigned and enlarged kitchen drawer fell apart last summer shortly after we left home and by the end of our road trip it was almost useless. I made the mistake of buying cheap simple drawer slides (the white ones in the pictures). I din't take into consideration how much their design relies on gravity for them to work. After a day of driving on bouncy roads the little guide wheel would pop out of the track and the fibreglass wall would flex and then my drawer was hanging askew. In a short period of time the slides were broken and the drawer was nearly impossible to use...
I tried some temporary fixes while on the road but nothing really solved the issue.
But now I THINK I have a solution. I bought more substantial sliders as you can see in the pictures. Last weekend I also built a box for the drawer to slide into and that box will be fastened into the cabinet under the stove. It is a whole lot beefier and it is a lot heavier but I am confident that it will solve my problem.
Glad the weather is a little warmer, I can finally enjoy working in the garage again. I'll post more pics as the project continues. If anyone else has used these sliders / guides I would appreciate any insight.
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:24 PM   #68
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No progress on the drawer this weekend. I am getting tired of this cold weather. last weekend I was working in a tshirt and today I was in my parka and toque and mitts. Maybe I should think about heating my garage! Hopefully it warms up soon, I have lot I want to do.
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:27 AM   #69
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I've replaced the slide from the cheap white one to soft closing ones.
They only had self closing at the hardware store. The advantage of the self closing is they don't open by themselves while travelling.

Now you've mentionned making a bigger drawer, I'm tempted to do the same!
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:21 AM   #70
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sounds like . . .

Johnny's Cadillac



.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:49 AM   #71
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To stop the drawer from falling out while on the road l cut a rabbit just behind the front. Just needs a 1/4 inch lift to open


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Old 04-05-2016, 06:54 PM   #72
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James, I like that idea. I am not sure if I can retrofit my drawer with that option but I will look more closely into the possibility. I have latches on all the doors and the drawer and did not have any issues with the drawer opening unexpectedly. In fact, the issue was that after a week on the road the drawer pretty much wouldn't open.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:58 PM   #73
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I had a question regarding the construction of the cedar closet and since I couldn't figure out how to post pics on an private message I am posting them here.
In order to build the cedar closet my wife wanted i had to build a frame inside the cabinet using 1" pine. I built a 3 legged box frame around the wheel well first then I built the two sides which I glued to the FG wall of the closet with PL300 adhesive and clamps. There are supports along the back edge of the sides that allowed me to attach the cedar panels to the back. The frame had 3 sides and was self supporting with the sides glued to the FG which made it pretty darn solid.
I opted for a flat ceiling and in fact I cut an access into the "attic" space to put Ipads and books into (beware of condensation!) from the dinette side.

The bottom of the closet is a hatch that allows access into the wheel well space. and the shelves are custom cut cedar planks sitting on 1/2" square rails. 1/2' brad nails fasten everything together.
Here are the pics of a quick sketch I used and a few of the visible frames.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:05 PM   #74
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Here are a couple of pics of how the maple back-splash is attached . There are actually only 3 screws along the back of the kitchen counter. Now, I understand many Bolers don't have this flange but I do and the black vinyl trim also helps hold the back-splash in place top and bottom.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:10 PM   #75
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Here are a couple of pics of how the maple back-splash is attached . There are actually only 3 screws along the back of the kitchen counter. Now, I understand many Bolers don't have this flange but I do and the black vinyl trim also helps hold the back-splash in place top and bottom.
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:41 PM   #76
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I noted on one of my other posts that I am having problems with my converter. I cleaned up my ground connection to my frame and even changed some of my wires around but I just can't get my LED lights to stop strobing. I did manage to get them to shut off which was a problem last spring, but don't ask me what I did to make that possible (I think it's because I pulled the lead to the battery).
Last night I removed my ancient converter and I have taken it to a colleague who is an electrician and I have asked for his help because I am baffled.
I am of mixed mind about whether to replace it if it is unrepairable or to go cordless for good. We traveled all last summer with out shore power and life was grand but I sure like the idea of having access to electricity once in a while. Guess it all depends on if it is fixable or not.
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:24 PM   #77
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Jay,

My original converter in my Trillium died shortly after I bought the camper. Since my only 12vdc power needs were 8 LED bulbs and a LP detector, I decided to use a cheap 110vac to 12vdc plug in adapter. It supplies 2 amps at 12vdc and that's all the power I need. It works great.

-John
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:35 PM   #78
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That's good to hear John. I had thought about just using an "adapter" like the one I bought for my 12volt cooler. This would give me the option to run some 12 volt systems when I have access to shore power.
I don't have lot of power needs so maybe I am worried about something I don't really need.
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:52 PM   #79
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I finished the drawer today, pretty sure I wont have problems with it for a while. Sturdier glides mounted in a box. Nice and solid.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:36 PM   #80
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Fridge door repair

Last summer the 30-year-old plastic frame on my fridge door gave up. I don't know if it was the rough roads or the age of the plastic but the plastic trim around the door cracked around the mounting hinges and the door fell off almost every time I moved campsites. The last fix while on the road ended up being duct tape and 5 min epoxy. Not my most triumphant fix but it worked.
This past week I finally tackled the project with results that made me happier. I made a new frame using ½” x ½” aluminum channel, actually the left over material from my belly band. I cut out 45* angles and bent the channel to fit the door.
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