Brake away switch added - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-29-2020, 08:28 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,858
Registry
Brake away switch added

I have a 2017 Deluxe 16’ and would like to add a breakaway switch. Two questions.
Where have others made the electrical connection to keep it weather proof, and how is Scamp doing it on the 2021s. (I will be using the house battery.)
Attached Thumbnails
81TzQjqON+L._AC_SL1500_.jpg  
AC0GV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2020, 10:59 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
It is weather proof.
The best ones come with its own battery. The battery charges when connected to the tow vehicle and one that costs just a little more has a charger with it that you plug in to AC voltage. This works if your camper onboard battery is dead.
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2020, 11:29 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,858
Registry
the other end

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
It is weather proof.
The best ones come with its own battery. The battery charges when connected to the tow vehicle and one that costs just a little more has a charger with it that you plug in to AC voltage. This works if your camper onboard battery is dead.
Where the wires hook up. I already have a battery, no RV adds yet another battery.
AC0GV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 04:18 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Raspy's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
The trouble with using a separate battery for the breakaway is that you may have no way of knowing if it is charged up or not. Or if it is charging from its separate charger, or not. Those little chargers burn out and then do nothing. You will very likely know if your house battery is charged or not, because it is constantly being used when the trailer is used. We all try hard to keep our batteries in good shape and charged. You know if it is charged because things work in the trailer. Also, having a dedicated breakaway battery means more equipment, more expense, and more possible failures, and testing to check on it.

On my new trailer, I disconnected and removed the dedicated breakaway battery and its charger to increase reliability and reduce complication. On some trailers people don't know if they have breakaway batteries because they are mounted in such hidden spots. That means they have no idea if the system is charged up.

Use the house battery for your breakaway power.

On so many trailers, the house batteries are right there on the tongue. Connecting could not be more convenient.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
Raspy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 06:54 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Wire the positive directly to the battery post. Most even say no fuse.. its the one exception the always fuse rule, although you could use a auto-reset 12 VDC circuit breaker. But the idea of no fuse is that you dont want anything to prevent your last ditch effort (the break-away switch) from saving you from disaster if the trailer separates.

Wire the brake power to the brake-power post in the junction box where the umbilical cord from the tug connects all the trailer's wiring. If you don't have a junction box then you might want to consider one. Scamp builds em with wire nuts connecting the cord to the trailer wiring. A sealed junction box with posts and ring terminals is better (either inside the camper or on the tongue). See https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Way.../dp/B07QDQRX7P

If wire nuts and no junction box then connecting the switch power lead to the brake power wires at the wire nuts will work (as long as you use the right size wire nut for the number of wires).

Wire the ground (if you have one for an indicator light) wherever it is convenient. Even the frame if its grounded. If the ground connection fails the break-away switch still works, its only the little light that wont show the switch was pulled.

And I agree that using a separate battery when you have a house battery that you maintain and don't allow to get discharged is preferable and it eliminates potential failures and expense with the separate battery.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 07:33 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
I know there will be disagreement over this comment, but those junction boxes are not easy to keep totally weatherproof. The wire entry points are the problem. I have used them and like them, but you are better off if it can be mounted inside or under cover. If outside mounted, wait a year and pull the cover to check it.
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 10:20 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,858
Registry
Rats nest

Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
I know there will be disagreement over this comment, but those junction boxes are not easy to keep totally weatherproof. The wire entry points are the problem. I have used them and like them, but you are better off if it can be mounted inside or under cover. If outside mounted, wait a year and pull the cover to check it.
Scamp has no junction box, just a rats nest, As for fuses, I would never fun with out a fuse. My brakes draw 7+ amps, so I will fuse at double and the fuse should open before the wire burns. I may also run all NEW wire because the Scamp wires are a small gauge and I'm worried about voltage drop and using the frame clamps for ground. Bare wire can not be used in road salt and last.
Attached Thumbnails
axle bolt.jpg  
AC0GV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 10:45 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0GV View Post
Scamp has no junction box...
Mine does.. I added it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
..but you are better off if it [junction box] can be mounted inside ...
Of course.. I put mine inside, under the front bench. Tis the best option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0GV View Post
I may also run all NEW wire because the Scamp wires are a small gauge and I'm worried about voltage drop and using the frame clamps for ground. ..
Yes the frame connections are failure prone. Thats why in addition to the junction box, I also added ground (neg) wire from the box to the brakes. I like to make my brakes as dependable as possible.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 12:15 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
I have added several breakaway switches to Scamps. I add a 7 pin junction box to clean up the rats nest of wires where the 7 pigtail just enters into the shell. I add the break away switch wires between the black 12V wire and the blue brake wire.
Eddie
Eddie Longest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 02:03 PM   #10
Member
 
Name: Derek
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 77
Might I add that installing a breakaway switch is only part of the job. Testing it. How many out there with 15 year old trailers have actually pulled the wire and checked that both brakes engage? I was towing a trailer for 10 years before it occurred to me to test it - and yup it didn't work. Learned my lesson and now I check it twice a season. My wife drives and we idle down a gravel road. I walk along side the hitch and pull the wire. It either works or it doesn't!
burrorojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 03:59 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
This setup lets you know the charge level.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bre...rt/C52042.html
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 05:15 PM   #12
Member
 
Name: Derek
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 77
Sadly it doesn't tell you if ALL the contacts are clean. That was my problem. The contacts inside the little activator box we're not exactly squeaky clean - exposed to rain, salt and dirt! Pull the pin and the contacts close. As long as the contacts are clean it's all good. My unit uses the trailer's battery for power.
burrorojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 10:37 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
Quote:
Originally Posted by burrorojo View Post
Sadly it doesn't tell you if ALL the contacts are clean. That was my problem. The contacts inside the little activator box we're not exactly squeaky clean - exposed to rain, salt and dirt! Pull the pin and the contacts close. As long as the contacts are clean it's all good. My unit uses the trailer's battery for power.
This is a example where dielectric grease should be used on all outside contacts. Including bulbs and the camper to tow connections.
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2020, 10:45 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,858
Registry
BREAK AWAY SWITCH

Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0GV View Post
I have a 2017 Deluxe 16’ and would like to add a breakaway switch. Two questions.
Where have others made the electrical connection to keep it weather proof, and how is Scamp doing it on the 2021s. (I will be using the house battery.)
Thanks for the help, I now have a plan thanks to this group and a discussion on a ham radio group last night. Note also that I covered ALL spellings of break/brake away in my post. Thanks for not pointing it out.
I think I will run all new wire and solder/weather proof all connections.
AC0GV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2021, 04:12 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
AC0GV's Avatar
 
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 1,858
Registry
Scamp breakaway switch installed

Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0GV View Post
Thanks for the help, I now have a plan thanks to this group and a discussion on a ham radio group last night. Note also that I covered ALL spellings of break/brake away in my post. Thanks for not pointing it out.
I think I will run all new wire and solder/weather proof all connections.
I added the new breakaway switch today, I ran the wires in next to the 7-pin cable in the front. I noticed that that hole was not watertight outside, so I sealed it when finished.It had not leaked, probably due to all of the red adhesive holding the wall covering in place inside.

The splices are soldered first with a wire nut added for insulation and then the wire nut filled with epoxy to make it secure. The rats’ nest is behind the rat fur, so I never want to see it again. Pulling the breakaway cable connects the house battery directly to the Scamp brakes. Circuit protection comes from the 20-amp fuse in the battery box.
Attached Thumbnails
wires in.jpg  
AC0GV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2021, 11:20 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Raspy's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
Quote:
Originally Posted by burrorojo View Post
Might I add that installing a breakaway switch is only part of the job. Testing it. How many out there with 15 year old trailers have actually pulled the wire and checked that both brakes engage? I was towing a trailer for 10 years before it occurred to me to test it - and yup it didn't work. Learned my lesson and now I check it twice a season. My wife drives and we idle down a gravel road. I walk along side the hitch and pull the wire. It either works or it doesn't!
Good point about testing it, but do it even simpler. When hooked up and ready to go, pull the breakaway switch and then drive forward 10-20 feet. If it skids, it's working. Plug back in and go. It only takes one person, no gravel road is needed, no walking along between the moving truck and trailer fiddling with the breakaway wire. If you trip in that situation, the breakaway switch will be the least of your worries.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
Raspy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2021, 12:20 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Glenn Baglo's Avatar
 
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
I don't think you are supposed to pull the breakaway pin while 7-pin is hooked up. That may damage the brake controller. Could still pull and drag, without 7-pin connected.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
Glenn Baglo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2021, 12:53 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Raspy's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I don't think you are supposed to pull the breakaway pin while 7-pin is hooked up. That may damage the brake controller. Could still pull and drag, without 7-pin connected.
This is starting to get tricky.

The breakaway needs to get pulled before the chains get tight. If the seven pin gets yanked out in the process, the controller survives, but the seven pin socket gets ruined. If not, the controller gets ruined, but the plug socket survives.

I think I'll just stay home.

But you make a good point: Unplug the seven pin before testing the breakaway.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
Raspy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2021, 10:35 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Borden's Avatar
 
Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: 1978 Earlton Ontario boler
Ontario
Posts: 1,506
Registry
Brakeaway switch is law here, had to add one to our trailer.
__________________
Our postage stamp in heaven.
Borden is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
run away brake thingy spartacus Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 10-05-2013 09:39 PM
monitors, converters, break-away brake cables, and ...? beardrum Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 11 09-24-2013 02:51 AM
Testing Emergency Break-Away Switch Steve Outlaw General Chat 11 08-24-2013 09:24 PM
Break-away switch cable Cathi Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 1 05-25-2012 07:47 PM
Brake pedal switch - Brake controler Dave Mac Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 13 07-19-2007 07:49 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.