Originally Posted by DuaneQ
I'm not sure I understand all you are saying. I worked as an electrician for a local business for around 4 years. I had considered adding another buss bar to separate the grounding and neutral wires. After giving it some thought I could not see any reason not to wire the Burro panel like a main panel.
Are there any other electricians out there that have an opinion? I guess I admit I should have looked at other panels in other RVs like the Scamp
. I do have a friend up the street that has a new one.
I also think any outlet in a small trailer should have most if not all gfci circuits esp when there is water or any other way to "find" ground. A short extension cord to a non gfi outlet and then a blow dryer/ hair curler etc. over a sink could spell trouble.
No gfi for the fridge
I'd say and that outlet should be hidden under the counter and not accessible.
I am an electrician (although retired), and have taught electrical
theory as well as wired numerous commercial buildings, theaters, & homes. I do suggest getting the opinion of another electrician that understands RV wiring since the way you have wired your trailer is incorrect.
The reason a trailer or motorhome is wired as a sub panel is because there should be only one place where the ground & neutrals are tied together (bonded). In a campground this is either at the pedestal or the campground service entrance, depending on local code.
Code requires that the chassis be connected to your AC ground (as well as any other exposed metal in the trailer). This is to protect you from faults between the hot wiring & the metal frame. If a fault occurs between the hot & the frame & the frame is grounded, it will open the circuit breaker.
By combining the neutral & ground in the trailer distribution panel you are making the frame of the trailer and any other grounded parts (as well as the ground conductor) current carrying conductors since the ground & neutral wiring is paralleled and will share the current. The only time a ground should carry current is during a fault. This presents a shock hazard between the trailer chassis & a good ground (such as the campground water system).
A couple of additional problems will occur when other parts of the system fails. The loss of the trailer ground connection, either in the trailer or in the pedestal will result in a greater shock hazard between any grounded part of the trailer and a true ground because you no longer have the ground carrying part of the neutral current.
As I mentioned in a pervious post, in the worst case, a combination of a missing ground combined with reverse polarity would put the grounded parts of the trailer at line (120V) potential. When the polarity is reversed, the circuit breakers will be in the neutral side. A connection between the chassis or any other grounded part of the trailer & a real ground will not trip the breakers.
You don't have to accept my suggestions or explanation, but for the sake of you & those using the trailer please talk to another electrician.