cabinet doors, Do we replace them?

[jaye580]

I'd say replace them and do something cool instead! The 2 on the ends of mine were just cupboard doors from a former kitchen renovation that I salvaged, I painted them, decorated them and put an epoxy finish on. Since I only had 2, I made the middle one from a scrap of 1/2 plywood, painted it, decorated it and put in a mirror. All of my other doors and drawers match also. Was an easy and fun project for a change!

[Dorie]

[quote]
Attachment 3169



Hi. I joined this site yesterday. This is all new to me so I hope I am replying right. I am so happy with all the info I am finding in these forums. We just bought an 82 13 foot Buro a couple days ago and I am going oh where do I start. I need to do the cabinet doors.

The photos here are great. Wow.

I'd like everything to match as far as the wood goes.The guy we bought it from was working on it or rather going to.

Whatever was covering the spot where the furnace went is missing. The floor has linoleum on it and you can see where it was cut off at the edges with space showing all around. Doesnt look good. The fridge is gone and that space needs to be covered. The cushions are just cushions with nothing on em but sheets sewn. The exterior doesnt shine after washing and looks like chalk. Oh dear. Where to start.

[Donna D.]

Oh dear. Where to start.

Hi Dorie! Start with the safety issues first, then on to the cosmetic issues. But most of all, don't wait until the trailer is absolutely perfect before enjoying it. Camping season has started, if the trailer tows safely...enjoy it! Save some of that decorating/modifying stuff for the winter. After you use the trailer for a while, you'll discover ideas of exactly what you want/need to modify/fix.

[Dorie]

Hi Dorie! Start with the safety issues first, then on to the cosmetic issues. But most of all, don't wait until the trailer is absolutely perfect before enjoying it. Camping season has started, if the trailer tows safely...enjoy it! Save some of that decorating/modifying stuff for the winter. After you use the trailer for a while, you'll discover ideas of exactly what you want/need to modify/fix.

Hi Donna. Well you are right. It is safe and towable. Tires in good shape. Am gonna clean the inside today. It will be clean and ready to go. Just have to get the cushions covered with something for now.

Thank you!

[Miriam]

[attachment=4091:attachm
ent]

These were the cupboards that came with my unit. Originally, they were covered in the same tar-like chestnut brown shellac that we see in most trailers. However, underneath: oak. They were stripped, sanded and bleached (which wasn't smart because the old chestnut stain leached to the surface again), sanded again, and then pickled with a cream-colered latex glaze to match the interior fiberglass. Because the interior panels on the cupboards were only oak veneer, the backs were ugly and the old varnish was tough to eradicate, so they were painted with about 4 coats of the same paint I used to glaze the cupboard facings. In some areas where the chestnut stain was really soaked in, the stain would leach to the surface of the paint - and this happened even with a top quality sealing primer, so now you know the reason for the 4 coats.

I couldn't find hardware anywhere that would fit the original holes so I ended up painting the original hardware with silver paint. Turns out I don't mind the hardware - it has ends that stick up that are perfect for hooking things onto - like dishtowels, garbage bags, etc.

[Jeanne and Steve]

Bravo folks! Those are some beautiful sets of cabinets and drawers! Like many of you, we also wanted to improve the appearance and function of our older trailer, so we discarded the original pressboard / vaneer cabinet doors on out 1984 Casita. As replacements, we built all new cabinet doors and a natural wood countertop that are complementary to the original burnt-orange shag carpet. The new closet, pantry, and cabinet doors were constructed of ¼” oak panels, reinforced by ¼” stiffeners in the back, and trimmed with pine molding. We used adjustable Sun-Dog brass stud catches (attached sideways to oak plates) for the latches.





The new countertop is constructed of laminated 3/4” pine boards that were stained lightly with Minwax natural wood finish, and trimmed by oak. I installed long wood shims between the fiberglass cabinet base and the countertop to level-out the counter surface, and the shims are hidden by oak molding. The countertop was attached by stainless steel wood screws and construction adhesive. I used a jigsaw to remove the cut outs for the propane burner, sink, and pump, and then finished the woodwork with several coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar urethane (semi-gloss). I also added a bead of white latex kitchen caulking around the back and side where the countertop abuts against the fiberglass. I was able to salvage and re-install the original sink, but I added a new LC triple-action low-boy pump, and a new Suburban 2-burner stainless steel drop-in propane cook-top. I also hollowed out a section of bamboo to accept and hide the metal conduit for the electrical wires that run from beneath the sink to the new 120V AC / 12V DC lights located above the sink and propane burners.





Steve

[Patricia Baxter]

Well. being a lover of NATURAL wood, I started sanding down all of the the doors on our Trillium, only to discover that the dark wood grain was actually fake, and underneath are beautiful fine grain plywood doors. So with Dale's help we are sanding off the old finish and I will be varnishing the unstained natural wood. This will then blend in quite well with the beautiful shelves that Ed added- and lighten up the interior even more! More pictures will are on the website now-

Pat

Edited to correct the link:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures...l?id=2106439541