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03-21-2024, 05:20 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Jane
Trailer: Casita
Wisconsin
Posts: 6
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Casita 2012 Lithium upgrade, which converter do I buy?
I have a 2012 Freedom Deluxe that is getting a lithium battery. So, I need to replace the converter. It has the original Paralax 7300 converter under the bed/bench. After reading a ton of mods, I am confidently confused and unable to find the best option for replacing that converter so that it fully charges my new lithium battery. Does anyone here know a good quality system? This is the only one I can find any Casita specific applications: Progressive International PD4655LIV 55 Amp Lithium Replacement Section. Thanks for any input you can lend.
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03-22-2024, 09:28 AM
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#2
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Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2005 Casita 17 LD
Florida
Posts: 56
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I used the PD converter you referenced two years ago and I've had no issues.
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03-22-2024, 04:16 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Jane
Trailer: Casita
Wisconsin
Posts: 6
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WFCO Auto Detect suggested by RV dealer, quality?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PC Steve
I used the PD converter you referenced two years ago and I've had no issues.
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Thanks Steve. I talked to a three different RV dealer service techs today, and oddly none of them completely understood how Lithium batteries charged, and why they needed a special power converter. In the end, they said they would install what Casita installs on their new lines (WFCO Power Converter with auto-detect). Cost wise, putting a whole new converter box in is about the same as using the PD converter in the same box. At least that is what I saw on first glance. What do you think?
I would rather just install a second charge controller unit, but not having any electrical savvy (I cannot even reliably wire a wall outlet), I must rely on others to do that. For example, here is a Victron DC-DC unit . This cost much much less, but without someone who KNOWS which one to install and how to install it properly, I don't know what else to do.
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03-23-2024, 01:04 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: CalCop
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 236
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A number of years ago, I upgraded to a lithium battery. I also changed out the converter to a PD4645 LIV, this is a 45 amp converter, because that's the Casita wiring is rated at. You only need to replace the bottom half of the converter and the circuit board. I too had a Paralax 7300 that came installed from the factory. So far the battery takes a quick and easy charge with no issues.
You tube can really be your friend on this.
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03-23-2024, 06:24 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
Posts: 1,256
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Your existing unit will charge the Li battery to 90+%. You could buy an inexpensive stand alone Li charger or a solar panel if you need that last bit. I'm not saying this is ideal but might be a good path since you have to rely on apparently uninformed techs. You'll still have about twice the capacity of the stock battery, even w/o the last few %.
__________________
Eschew vanity links!
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03-23-2024, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Jane
Trailer: Casita
Wisconsin
Posts: 6
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PD4645 V and PD4645LIV
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalCop
A number of years ago, I upgraded to a lithium battery. I also changed out the converter to a PD4645 LIV, this is a 45 amp converter, because that's the Casita wiring is rated at. You only need to replace the bottom half of the converter and the circuit board. I too had a Paralax 7300 that came installed from the factory. So far the battery takes a quick and easy charge with no issues.
You tube can really be your friend on this.
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I spent some time researching your suggestion, many thanks. Progressive Dyn website lists both the V and the LIV versions. I found these issues Issues: The V version has a switch on the panel that must be switched to Li or Lead or AGM. This is a small hidden technical procedure. The LIV version will do great harm (page 3 on link, does not state exactly what, blow up, fire, or just boil) to lead batteries. That is a real risk for anyone swapping a battery in a pinch or a new owner (like someone could just inherit this thing too). The systems should either have an easy and obvious switch, warnings, and a fail-safe. However, at least the regular V version will charge a Lithium and a Lead Acid with some technical knowledge. Thanks for the direction! I am looking down that avenue now.
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03-27-2024, 10:30 AM
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#7
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Member
Name: Jeffrey
Trailer: Casita
NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 48
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I had no problem with my LifPo battery and the converter in my 2010 Spirit.
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06-18-2025, 08:35 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMathis
I had no problem with my LifPo battery and the converter in my 2010 Spirit.
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You used your original charger? No issues?
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06-18-2025, 10:42 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2003 Honda Odyssey
Posts: 239
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Changing from Lead Acid to Lithium Battery.
I don't condone this, but this what I did, and it's been fine for 3 years so far.
I just replaced the battery with a 100AHr Lithium! My Bigfoot had a Progressive Dynamics 60 Amp 9200 series converter with the Charge Wizard pendant and I monitor it with an old obsolete Xantrex Link 20 Digital Monitor. As someone mentioned, this will give at least 90%+ of the capacity of the battery. In my case, probably close to 100% since my converter will jump to 14.4V Charge for 15 minutes every 24 hours, supposedly to 'stir the electrolyte' of the old lead acid unit. In my case it's sort of a 'polishing off' charge, since most lithiums use 14.4V or similar anyways. I can force this 14.4V with the Charge Wizard Pendant if I wish.
POSSIBLE PROBLEM! I haven't encountered this BUT it may be a problem for some.
If Boondocking on battery only and discharging it to it's low or shut off Voltage, the battery will still have a very low input impedance. That means that the converter will attempt to put it's full charge current capacity into that battery when it is starting to charge. This may exceed your fuses or overheat your charge line wires or converter. I haven't had this, nor even heard about this problem, but my electronics knowlege tells me it's possible. Other than the resistance of the wiring, there is no current limiting devices in circuit other than the internal BMS (Battery Management System), which is way too high for normal wiring.
As I said, my results have never given me any problems with just the existing Converter and Lithium Battery. YMMV!
Mike .....>
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06-18-2025, 11:01 AM
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#10
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Member
Name: Jeffrey
Trailer: Casita
NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 48
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Lithium Battery
I wasn't smart enough to know it could be a problem
I just bought a Renogy 100ah LiFPo and installed it. No problems. Like I said, I just did it with no issues.
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06-23-2025, 03:01 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMathis
I wasn't smart enough to know it could be a problem
I just bought a Renogy 100ah LiFPo and installed it. No problems. Like I said, I just did it with no issues.
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Good to hear, thanks.
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06-24-2025, 11:37 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RQ
Ohio
Posts: 376
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The newer pd retro fit chargers are two stage, this enables cell balancing which is necessary for long term health of the batteries. I’m sure they make a swap in for the Parralex power center. They aren’t outrageous expensive. The older models were one stage and not as effective.
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06-24-2025, 05:52 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 7
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Which one to buy?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldwave
The newer pd retro fit chargers are two stage, this enables cell balancing which is necessary for long term health of the batteries. I’m sure they make a swap in for the Parralex power center. They aren’t outrageous expensive. The older models were one stage and not as effective.
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Oldwave, are you thinking of one in particular?
I have a 2012 Casita with a Parallax 7345. A couple of years ago I asked at dragonfly energy (battleborn) what to use and they said to change mine to a PD9145ALV Lithium Deck Mount. I never got around to it. Now I"ve got another failing AGM. This time I'll fix this!
By googling around recently I see that PD4645V is pointed to as a direct swap for the 7345 (uhhh, this via Google AI and etrailer ). So thoroughly confused, but it looks like it's been around for awhile and is 4 stage. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...s/PD4645V.html. Looks like Calcop confirms it works but just wondering if its the latest and greatest.I just have no idea how to compare the two, but lean towards the latter b/c I see it being used a couple times w/out issue. Maybe calling them will help.
Thanks if any suggestions.
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