Casita Front Mounted Bike Rack - Recommendations? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-23-2017, 08:01 PM   #1
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Casita Front Mounted Bike Rack - Recommendations?

Hi All,

Laura and I have decided to add biking to our list of activities to do when camping with our Casita. In the late 80s, 90s, and early 00s, I road biked and mountain biked. As life got busier with the kids, I quit biking and found jogging to be quicker and more efficient. Now as empty nesters, we want to take our bikes camping with us. My old Univega mountain bike and Laura’s entry level Trek are at the bike shop now for tune ups.

I have decided that I would prefer to add the bike rack to the front of the Casita rather than adding the bike rack to the rear of the Casita. I am not concerned about tongue weight. Our ‘09 Kia Borrego V8 will handle up to 750 lbs on the hitch with a WDH. Assuming a 400 lb hitch weight, a bike rack system and two bikes should be around 125 lbs.

I have thought about the following bike bunk that would give me a 2” receiver above propane tanks:

https://www.strombergcarlson.com/car...-model-cc-275/

I would then add a bike rack such as:

https://www.yakima.com/roadtrip

Thoughts about about a front mounted bike rack system for our ‘05 Casita 17’ FD? If you have a front mounted bike rack on your egg camper, I would like to hear your experiences and the system that you selected.

Thx,

Dean
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Old 12-23-2017, 08:30 PM   #2
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This is what we did. Works fine for us.
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Old 12-23-2017, 08:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by DeanCHS1980 View Post
Hi All,

Laura and I have decided to add biking to our list of activities to do when camping with our Casita. In the late 80s, 90s, and early 00s, I road biked and mountain biked. As life got busier with the kids, I quit biking and found jogging to be quicker and more efficient. Now as empty nesters, we want to take our bikes camping with 1 Mail us. My old Univega mountain bike and Laura’s entry level Trek are at the bike shop now for tune ups.

I have decided that I would prefer to add the bike rack to the front of the Casita rather than adding the bike rack to the rear of the Casita. I am not concerned about tongue weight. Our ‘09 Kia Borrego V8 will handle up to 750 lbs on the hitch with a WDH. Assuming a 400 lb hitch weight, a bike rack system and two bikes should be around 125 lbs.

I have thought about the following bike bunk that would give me a 2” receiver above propane tanks:

https://www.strombergcarlson.com/car...-model-cc-275/

I would then add a bike rack such as:

https://www.yakima.com/roadtrip

Thoughts about about a front mounted bike rack system for our ‘05 Casita 17’ FD? If you have a front mounted bike rack on your egg camper, I would like to hear your experiences and the system that you selected.

Thx,

Dean
Ive had mine on my 2004 Scamp13D since practically new. works great and is far better on the bikes than a rear rack.
I used tray style racks mounted on a frame of my own design. I think the tray design is better for stability and better on the bikes, also much easier to mount and dismount the bikes than hanging them by the frame.
below is a picture of mine and a picture of one I built for a friend.
Same idea, different frame legs...
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IMG_7915.jpg 1.jpg  
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Old 12-23-2017, 08:53 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Baja Bob View Post
This is what we did. Works fine for us.
Hi Baja Bob,

Nice! Where did you get the bottom bunk frame that you attached the Swagman bike rack to?

Thx,

Dean
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:18 PM   #5
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Swagman 64664

I have not done it yet, but my plans are to use this rack and a setup like the picture here:

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...s64664_644.jpg

Once we got to our destination I will unhook egg, then slide out the hitch from the truck and slide it into the egg rear receiver for bike storage until we hit the road again. This way I can carry bikes with or without the egg in tow.
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:05 AM   #6
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Hi Dean
I use the same bike bunk you were looking at I really like . If you’re going to be at eggs and Smore’s in Florida I’ll be there
Bob
https://www.strombergcarlson.com/car...-model-cc-275/
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Baja Bob View Post
Hi Dean
I use the same bike bunk you were looking at I really like . If you’re going to be at eggs and Smore’s in Florida I’ll be there
Bob
https://www.strombergcarlson.com/car...-model-cc-275/
Hi Baja Bob!

Yup, Laura and I will be attending the Eggs and S’more Rally. Look forward to meeting you!!!

Quick question. The Swagman XC Cross Country 2 Bike Hitch will fit into a 2” receiver. There is also the Swagman XC2-RV Bike Hitch with the “bumper adapter.” These two bike racks appear to be exactly the same and can fit into a 2” hitch receiver; however, the “RV” version comes with a bumper adapter that I don’t need. I have a rear 2” hitch receiver on the Casita. Plus, the Stromberg Carlson bike bunk has a 2” receiver. I assume your Swagman bike rack attaches to your Stromberg Carlson bike bunk via the 2” receiver, correct? If so, I am going to order the Swagman w/o the bumper adapter.

I may proceed in ordering the Swagman attaching it to the rear of the Casita and then traveling in January with it. We have 17 days in Florida in January. I will check out your Stromberg Carson bike bunk at the egg rally. My eventual goal is to carry the bikes on the front of the Casita.

Thanks!

Dean
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:24 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by JWScarab View Post
I have not done it yet, but my plans are to use this rack and a setup like the picture here:

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...s64664_644.jpg

Once we got to our destination I will unhook egg, then slide out the hitch from the truck and slide it into the egg rear receiver for bike storage until we hit the road again. This way I can carry bikes with or without the egg in tow.
Hi Joe,

That looks like a nice set up, plus it will allow you to “store” the bikes on the rear of the Egg Camper when you are not using them.

Thanks!

Dean
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Ive had mine on my 2004 Scamp13D since practically new. works great and is far better on the bikes than a rear rack.
I used tray style racks mounted on a frame of my own design. I think the tray design is better for stability and better on the bikes, also much easier to mount and dismount the bikes than hanging them by the frame.
below is a picture of mine and a picture of one I built for a friend.
Same idea, different frame legs...
Floyd,

Wow, impressive! I agree that the “platform” would seem to make for a more stable system for transporting the bikes rather than just hanging by the bike frames. I think I am going to order a bike rack and use the Orbital Machine Works 2” receiver on the rear of our Casita just to get the bikes on the Casita. I am going to check out Baja Bob’s bike bunk at a January egg rally with the goal of moving the bikes to the front of the Casita.

Thx!

Dean
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:22 AM   #10
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Dean,

This approach doesn't meet your criteria, but I'll link it anyway just for reference.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...kes-81921.html
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JWScarab View Post
I have not done it yet, but my plans are to use this rack and a setup like the picture here:

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...s64664_644.jpg

Once we got to our destination I will unhook egg, then slide out the hitch from the truck and slide it into the egg rear receiver for bike storage until we hit the road again. This way I can carry bikes with or without the egg in tow.
Check out the fine print on the device. Most I've seen have a caveat that they reduce the tongue weight rating of the tow vehicle by half. By the time you add the tongue weight of the trailer, plus the weight of rack and bikes, you are well over half the rated tongue weight.

I agree, based on experience with a hanging rack, that a tray-type is preferable. I have heard good things about the Kuat racks, but they are pricey.
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Old 12-24-2017, 12:11 PM   #12
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See you at the rally
We are at site 23 I think
Bob
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Old 12-24-2017, 12:12 PM   #13
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Check out the fine print on the device. Most I've seen have a caveat that they reduce the tongue weight rating of the tow vehicle by half. By the time you add the tongue weight of the trailer, plus the weight of rack and bikes, you are well over half the rated tongue weigh.
Hi Jon, I have read that on other threads. Please correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe those ratings are for the hitch extenders. Those are a separate part and you slide into truck and then slide hitch in it ending up with two joints. I agree I would never want that setup.

This one is just a longer hitch. So one joint. It's still rated at 6000/600. I think because it retains the one joint design, it still upholds the loads. I also plan to fabricate another rack that goes straight up and makes a T above the truck bed at cab roof height. This will hold 2 kayaks. Both the bike rack and kayak rack will slide onto that receiver. Then I will slide it into truck and mark hole to redrill for pin essentially shortening the extended hitch to only 6" (3" for kayak rack and 3" for bike rack).

Please yell if I'm missing something!
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Old 12-24-2017, 01:00 PM   #14
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I would say the longer ball mount still uses the leverage principle of reducing the hitch capacity. Doesn't matter if it is one piece or two, it still moves the ball farther out. My opinion only.
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Old 12-24-2017, 01:29 PM   #15
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I would say the longer ball mount still uses the leverage principle of reducing the hitch capacity. Doesn't matter if it is one piece or two, it still moves the ball farther out. My opinion only.
I have to agree fully in theory! It makes sense. But the item says 6000/600 on the website and etraler doesn't have one of those half weight disclaimers? You got me!! But that's why I'm going to shorten it as much as possible. If item were rated less I'd never do it.

I did notice the extension couplers are 3500/350, but these are 6000/600. Beats me! I'll double check with trailer to make sure I'm ok.

I'll probably come in at 3000/350 in actual weight approx.
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Old 12-24-2017, 05:09 PM   #16
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The rating of the ball mount has nothing to do with the rating or load capacity of the receiver that is bolted to the tow vehicle. That rating will be reduced the farther out the ball is from normal.
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:10 PM   #17
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The rating of the ball mount has nothing to do with the rating or load capacity of the receiver that is bolted to the tow vehicle. That rating will be reduced the farther out the ball is from normal.
Aahhhhh! Now I get it! That's funny The whole time I was thinking the ball mount! Ok that makes sense completely now! Thanks for posting that cause yes I agree I need to verify that I'm ok there too. I wonder if there is s formula because if a regular one stuck out 2", then I go 6", but some look to be out there a foot!! I'll have to google to see if I can find more of a definitive rating than the standard half weight statement I read. A rate based on distance.

Thanks again!!
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:42 AM   #18
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We have a Lippert Jack-It double bike carrier on the front of our new camper. Haven’t had a chance to try it out yet but saw them installed on lots of other campers. Easy to install, no drilling required, and affordable. Seems like a quality product.
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Old 12-25-2017, 10:34 AM   #19
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I'll have to google to see if I can find more of a definitive rating than the standard half weight statement I read. A rate based on distance.

Thanks again!!
Joe,

Here's a couple of hitch receivers from Germany (Audi Q5 and VW Touareg) that are "specifically specific" about a limiting distance. I don't know that you will find this information labeled on others.

Bob is correct that a longer ball mount will reduce the hitch capacity. The effect may be relatively minor.

You could consider the difference as a percentage of the "original" ball-to-axle distance as a very rough guide to how significant the effect might be. As an example, if it was originally 50" from ball to axle, (I have no idea!), and the new distance was 56", then that would be 56-50=6 and then 6/50=12% difference. Mind you, this approach does not take other factors into account, but it could serve to give a rough sense of the magnitude of the potential impact.

In broad terms, drilling the ball mount to keep the ball as close as you can to the axle is always a good thing from the standpoint of reducing the tongue weight's stress on the hitch and vehicle. Doing so will reduce the vertical load caused by the tongue weight, and also lateral forces where the trailer effectively pushes "sideways" on the rear of the vehicle.

I don't expect that a few inches will make a very significant difference on your truck. However, if it doesn't hurt anything else, (such as hatch clearance on an SUV), then go ahead and shorten it up as much as you can by drilling another hole for the retainer pin. Be sure to keep a least one diameter of solid metal (minimum) between the holes.
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Old 12-25-2017, 05:03 PM   #20
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Mike; I don't think the ball to axle distance has anything to do with it, it is the leverage principle applied to the ball mount being moved farther out. The longer the ball mount (extension) the more leverage to put weight on the receiver hitch. I don't know how to calculate the difference in load capacity of the receiver as related to the length of the ball mount. Probably tongue weight would have to be figured in somehow. Too many factors to really come up with a formula, but if someone were to create a formula that they are happy with, and satisfied their situation, Ok by me. I know I tried one of those double receiver adapters with our 650 lb teardrop that has very little tongue weight, and didn't like it.
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