Ceiling carpet adhesives and Lights - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-15-2017, 11:02 AM   #1
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Name: Raul
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Ceiling carpet adhesives and Lights

I'm in process of restoring my U-Haul trailer - trying to keep it as much original as possible. I have the original ceiling carpet that has fallen off and is still in good condition. I would like to reinstall; however, I'm not sure what adhesive to use and the process of holding it up to the ceiling while the adhesive bonds. If anyone can provide any information would be greatly appreciated. I will consider other ceiling options that maintain some originality look.

Also, I would like acquire the brake lenses and the smaller little lights. Does anyone know where to find them?

Thanks, Raul
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:08 AM   #2
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original tail light lenses are not available. Someone is attempting to make replicas but has not done so yet. The small lights are available from Uhaul, but are just a standard light made by Arrow. Adapters are available to convert the original tail lights to a standard round light. You need to join the Uhaul Facebook group for all this info.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:30 AM   #3
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Why not replace the carpet with DiBond panels ? Panels come in different thicknesses and a variety of colors and finishes,
Carpet in an RV is ridiculous. It's an RV and gets dusty and dirty and impossible to clean. DiBond will never rot or mold and is easy to wipe clean and if u use a lite color reflects lite. Brushed aluminum, or brushed stainless finish DiBond panels, make an excellent splash panel.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:39 AM   #4
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I plan on using acoustic carpeting on my Burro and holding it up with contact cement as soon as it gets warm enough.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:22 AM   #5
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carpet

When attaching foam-backed vinyl to the interior of my Compact II, I used a Loctite cartridge in my caulking gun. The product was something like 'quick grab' Loctite. Contact cement sounds fine, though. Then use thin plywood panels or strips propped up with 1 x 2's or broom handles to push the material against the ceiling until it is dry. You get the idea? Do a section at a time.

Hope this helps!

Fran

p.s. Just looked it up: Loctite Power Grab; worked surprisingly well.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:23 AM   #6
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Good luck keeping it clean and free of mold.
Put up the DiBond with 'Reflectix', for insulation, in behind.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:35 AM   #7
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NomadWizard----noticed that you are relatively new here. Welcome. However, just a little hint...taking the "bite" out of your posted comments would be appreciated.
This forum tries to pride itself on not judging or criticizing but in making helpful comments without any overt snarkiness. We all are here to learn and share...but in a positive, welcoming environment.
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:47 AM   #8
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I plan on using acoustic carpeting on my Burro and holding it up with contact cement as soon as it gets warm enough.
Contact cement is normally applied to both surfaces then allowed to dry to a tacky condition. Sometimes it absorbs into the surface and must have a second coat to function properly. Be very careful in positioning as once it makes contact it is almost impossible to remove. Sometimes installers use smooth separator strips (such as from venetian blinds) and then remove them one by one. There will be no need to prop the material in place once the two surfaces are in full contact.

Contact cement comes in both oil and water based versions. I personally prefer the oil based type but be sure to use a respirator as the solvent is lacquer thinner or something similar. I personally would use 3M 90 spray adhesive for your application. It is essentially a contact cement but the spray application makes it easier, particularly over head.
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Old 03-16-2017, 12:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wbullivant View Post
Contact cement is normally applied to both surfaces then allowed to dry to a tacky condition. Sometimes it absorbs into the surface and must have a second coat to function properly. Be very careful in positioning as once it makes contact it is almost impossible to remove. Sometimes installers use smooth separator strips (such as from venetian blinds) and then remove them one by one. There will be no need to prop the material in place once the two surfaces are in full contact.

Contact cement comes in both oil and water based versions. I personally prefer the oil based type but be sure to use a respirator as the solvent is lacquer thinner or something similar. I personally would use 3M 90 spray adhesive for your application. It is essentially a contact cement but the spray application makes it easier, particularly over head.

Thanks for pointing out the process. Sometimes I make assumptions about people's experiences which are not necessarily true.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:09 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=theresa p;631370]NomadWizard----noticed that you are relatively new here.

And apparently doesn't own a molded fiberglass trailer, let alone a Uhaul, so his advice of material, from what I can see of it by doing a google search, will not work for the OP.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:47 PM   #11
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Contact cement.....I personally would use 3M 90 spray adhesive for your application. It is essentially a contact cement but the spray application makes it easier, particularly over head.
Will this work better than the liquid contact cement you think? I've never used this before and I'm a little leery. It's devilishly hard to change if there's a mistake and I don't like to have to redo my work. Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
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