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Old 05-23-2003, 08:43 PM   #21
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Minimum Orders

If you find what you want and can't seem to get by the minimum order thing, check with some of the builder's surplus stores. If you're patient, you might be surprised what you can come up with.



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Old 05-23-2003, 10:20 PM   #22
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I was planning to do wood floors in my house, I may just need to save a few scraps and class up my little trailer. Of course decent countertops would probably do a lot more for it than hot shot floors. Ahh the projects go on.



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Old 05-26-2003, 07:20 PM   #23
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That's a given Chalrie. you fix the floor then you got to do the counter tops because they don't match, then that shows up the old cabinet doors. on and on and on

so now that we have our foor picked out, how do we level that fiberglass floor? mine has so many dips and bumps. didn't show up with carpet, but it will with that lilinoomiumun- linolium - what you said.



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Old 05-26-2003, 11:06 PM   #24
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We presently have an almost white vinyl flooring in our 16ft Scamp. We sort-of like it and sort-of don't like it. It is light and cheerful, but tends to look a bit ugly unless it has just been scrubbed. So I have been considering something different.

I would love to have a solid hard-wood floor, but I am concerned about expansion due to dampness, i.e., spills or leaks or perhaps high humidity. Has anyone had an experience with wood floors in a trailer that developed a roof leak? How about Pergo?



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Old 05-27-2003, 09:54 AM   #25
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Price wins, for now...

Well, I decided to go with a remnant of carpeting since it is *free*. It is "cheap landlord beige" carpeting leftover from when my house was carpeted prior to my purchase of said house. I figure it will do the trick for a while and when I get sick of it (and it wears out, since I already know from the house that it will do so rapidly) I'll do something more pricey and charming. I'm just going to cut to fit and not even glue it down.



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Old 05-27-2003, 11:49 AM   #26
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If you want to do ceramic tile, it's not really a problem, but it isn't installed the same as in a home. First, skip the cement board backer. Don't use regular thinset tile adhesive, either. Use a multi-purpose flooring adhesive, such as Henry's 356, which stays somewhat flexible. Don't use standard grout - use a water-cleanup caulk. Work the caulk into the grout lines, and then sponge over it with a barely damp sponge to remove the excess and smooth the caulk. Oh - user smaller tiles, too - not over 6". This way the floor has plenty of opportunities to flex as needed



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Old 01-07-2006, 09:51 AM   #27
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I just came across this thread as I was searching for flooring, and I'm curious--has anyone had any issues with expansion/contraction/cracking/buckling of their hardwood floors? We are planning on using our trailer for both winter and summer use (and we live in SW Colorado, so there's a decent amount of temperature difference). I am also fascinated by the bamboo floors (look, price, use of renewable materials) and think I would love to use them, although the Home Depot salesperson told me I absolutely have to nail it down (of course he also thought I was crazy for wanting to install anything but carpet in our trailer--so I'm taking his opinion with a grain of salt! ). I would really like to float the floor in the trailer, since I think that would be better in terms of give/flexing. The bamboo does have the tongue and groove installation (so I wonder if I really HAVE to nail)--has anyone disregarded the advice to nail/glue down a wood floor?
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:00 AM   #28
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Myself, I used a 3/4 inch plywood (8 ply) over the existing 5/8" plywood for a super strong floor surface. I then used real bolts to bolt through the plywood and onto the frame. The bolts going through the floor of the Burro actually hold the body to the frame. The original screws used were half eaten away. Now I have a very sturdy connection and a new flat, strong (8 ply, 3/4") wood floor.

I use indoor/outdoor carpet over this. I do this because you can get remnants inexpensive and change it out once a year. That way I can really use the trailer without worrying about spilling on the floor, getting dirt/mud, or having the dog sleeping on the floor. For about $15 - $20 a year I can have a new piece of indoor/outdoor carpet.
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Old 01-07-2006, 01:14 PM   #29
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Sandy,

An engineered bamboo flooring is available which can be floated or nailed. See this website for more info: bamboo hardwoods. We considered using bamboo for our flooring, but it's thicker than synthetic wood panels and would have decreased the inside height of our trailer by about 5/16". We also would have had to buy much more than we needed, so the cost was much higher. It also weighs more.

Like Gary, we installed a new floor in our 1984 Casita a few years ago. We chose a 1/4" thick synthetic oak floating floor and have not had any problems with movement of the snap-together panels. We followed the manufacturer's instructions and placed the flooring over a thin sheet of polyfilm padding that serves to hold the panels in place. We then installed oak moulding around the entire perimeter of the floor to help hold the panels down.

We installed a new 3/4" plywood sub-floor as the base for the oak panels. When we first obtained our trailer, the original plywood was rotted and the carpet was damaged. We removed the old carpet, tore out the entire plywood floor under the walking area, and under most of the cabinets. It was tricky, but we were able to leave the cabinets in place during this process. The floor and carpet were in good shape under the table/bed so we retained them there. We also removed most of the screws that originally went through the original plywood floor and bottom of the fiberglass to secure the trailer to the metal frame. Then we scraped, sanded, and leveled the floor down to bare fiberglass. Not much fun...

The rebuilding of the new floor took several steps. Being ever paranoid about future water damage, we sealed the bare fiberglass floor with waterproof epoxy boat paint. Next we sealed the 3/4" plywood sub-floor with three coats of waterproof spar urathane (top, bottom, and sides). We then installed several odd-shaped pieces of 3/4" plywood sub-floor to fit under the cabinets, laid the main piece of plywood for the walking surface and entry, and then filled any gaps between with plastic wood dough. Like Gary, we installed 8-10 new metal bolts through the plywood / fiberglass floor and the metal trailer frame. These bolts now hold the trailer securely to the frame. We used 1/4" stainless steel bolts with SS fender washers to distribute the pressure, and they were countersunk flush with the surface of the 3/4" plywood sub-floor. We also used SS fender washers and SS nylon lock nuts to tighten the plywood subfloor (and entire egg) to the trailer frame, and sealed everything with waterproof marine goop.


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We love our new floating floor, and we found it both inexpensive and easy to install. We haven't had a major accumulation of water on it yet to really test it, but its been very durable so far.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:11 AM   #30
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I put birch laminate flooring for Sam's in the Compact last year and have been extremely pleased with it. Looks good and cleans up very well. No visible changes with wear, temperature extremes, or big coffee spills. It was installed over the existing vinyl flooring with a layer of foam sheet underlay. It is not attached at any point except the table pole cups which have wood screws that go through the flooring. Tom Trostel

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Old 01-08-2006, 08:35 AM   #31
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I will eventually be putting down similar wood flooring myself. Looks great. I wonder what design rule, if any, applies to which way you lay the flooring down in relationship to the door.

I see in both cases here both floors' end grain ends at the door threshold. Note one egg door is on the side, the other is in the back. Is that coincidence? Or is it a wearability thing? Is it better to step with the grain rather than across it when entering a room or do instinctive architectural design commandments apply?
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Old 01-08-2006, 02:05 PM   #32
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Old 01-08-2006, 04:38 PM   #33
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another option, unless you are absolutely insistant on real wood, is a vinyl strip stick on flooring available at Lowes. I am sorry, I can't remember the brand name! It is standard there, so you should have no trouble finding it on the vinyl flooring aisle

Here is what I did with the Burro, and it has held up VERY well, is easy to clean and still looks great! It is even textured like wood.

It comes in a variety of flavors, I happened to like the honey oak, but they have cherry and darker, as well as lighter stuff.

I have the same brand in my house, 18 inch squares that look like slate. Also have held up well after 4 years. Still looks like new!
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Old 01-08-2006, 05:57 PM   #34
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I saw Ginas' floor, pre-crash, and decided to do the same thing...quick and easy, not expensive. The brand is Novalis....from Lowes. As you can see, it does come in different colors. It has a texture to it, rather than flat like rolled flooring.I have not dropped anything sharp, nor spilled any large amounts of water, but I do know that it sweeps up very easily. I do keep throw rugs on it, just because it makes the floor a little warmer in winter, and easier to shake out the rug, then just sweep occassionally.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:56 PM   #35
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Anyone have any hints for me. My Scamp has the maple interior, beige rat fur, dark brown/tan cushions and tan curtains...I'm SICK of tan/beige/brown. I NEED some color....red, blue, green, yellow...I don't care what COLOR. I'd like to put down linoleum, but everything I've seen is white or tan or brown or gray or yuck green...nothing with a lot of COLOR. I know, I know, I could use throw rugs....anyone remember the linoleum from years ago that had all the multi-colored flecks? That type of thing is what I want, but I appear to be about 30 years out of date.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:08 PM   #36
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I have a bunch of that as the original flooring in my house... under 5 more layers of floor. I was not about to take it up. Can you say "Asbestos?"

Have you thought of using a floor paint? It comes in all colors of the rainbow, and the stuf designed for boat decks is very durable.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:16 PM   #37
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Have you thought of using a floor paint? It comes in all colors of the rainbow, and the stuf designed for boat decks is very durable.
Actually I have Gina...looking at maybe something like this:
Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:20 PM   #38
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Talking

Quote:
Anyone have any hints for me.....anyone remember the linoleum from years ago that had all the multi-colored flecks? That type of thing is what I want, but I appear to be about 30 years out of date.
Armstrong Standard EXCELON Imperial Texture

With 75 colors to choose from, I think you'll find something there. We put Jade Blue/Green in the kitchen of the house (since discontinued) and I have a box & 1/2 left over to do the Fiber Stream with.

This is [b]Home Depot's commercial grade vinyl floor tile.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:25 PM   #39
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I love how they have named most of them food names!

Marishino! I vote Marishino!
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:36 PM   #40
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oooh, I feel a trip to Home Depot coming on...Thanks Frederick.

Wonder if I can find one: grass, dirt and peanut butter and jelly colored

I kinda like the Cantalope one Gina
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