Huge Fiberglass Hole in Skin...Help

[Brian in Riverbank]

I have read and watched tons of fix-it posts and videos about fixing holes in thin fiberglass skin. I have a 12" star/cross shaped hole in the front curved skin. Sorry, can't find my pix.

Do I have to make the hole round before I fix it? A number of small round holes, a couple of big ones or just one large hole?

I am familiar with the fix procedures, just no one addresses my particular situation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Captiva 32ft Ultralight 2007.

[Iowa Dave]

In the interest of original structural integrity I believe I’d rather fix smaller holes
where there’s spam of original fiberglass to tie to. I would find getting the right curvature on a large opening more difficult than patching using remaining surface for reference. I guess if you try patching and don’t like the results you can cut back to all original but you can’t go the other way around. Others may have different insights.
Iowa Dave

[David Tilston]

I would love to comment, but I need pictures.

[FRED SMAILES]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

I would love to comment, but I need pictures.

Ya pretty hard to visualize when I dont even know what the trailer looks like.
But don't matter size of hole same work only more.

[Terry G]

If you can get to the hole from inside the trailer, it's a relatively easy fix. I took the air conditioner out of the front of my Casita and it left a fairly large hole. I used a piece of cardboard with waxed paper on it, taped it securely to the trailer outside the hole. The cardboard conformed to the curve of the area and the wax paper was so the fiberglass wouldn't stick. Then I added a couple layers of fiberglass mat from the inside, some Bondo body filler, and I was able to fill the hole and make the repair invisible. It doesn't take a lot of skill but be prepared to do some sanding.

[Jon in AZ]

I think this is a laminated trailer, so everything has to happen from the outside. I agree pictures would help.

[redbarron55]

The Scamp is a chopper gun sprayed mat and not laminated for the shell.
With no picture to go by I would say that if you can get to the inside and look at the damage from the back of the built up mat you can tell a lot more about how to go about fixing the damage.
I have removed windows and scarfed in fiberglass panels from removed bulkheads in my Scamp.
The process is relatively simple, but does take some time and fitting.
What I did was working on a relatively flat surface and not curved and definitely not a compound curve.
If in a compound curve I think that I would clean the back side and then lay up a few layers of cloth to stabilize the fractured mat and then work from the outside to clean up the fractured mat on that side and then lay up a new surface and work it out smooth.
The way to proceed is really dependent on if you can get to the back or not.

[Brian in Riverbank]

My image is on my home computer with a random IP address.

Any other way to post an image?

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Brian in Riverbank

My image is on my home computer with a random IP address.

Any other way to post an image?

See if this helps: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post512265


or this: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post217275

[Brian in Riverbank]

Here they are and thanks for everyone's help.

[David Tilston]

Have you looked at this thread?
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ass-52498.html

I would grind the edges from knife edge thin at the opening to full thickness about 1" in around the opening. Can you get to the inside? If so, grind that as well. Then screw something flat. (plywood?) to the inside. Line that with poly, so that the new glass will not stick to it. Glass over the hole with a couple of layers of glass. Take off the flat piece off, feather around the screw holes and glass over those. Glass the inside of the hole with a couple of layers. Then sand smooth and paint.

[Brian in Riverbank]

A totally external job it will have to be.

Thanks for the actual knife edge dimensions.

I have seen videos of layering sheets of glass to build up the difference between solid base and glass top edge.

Even though it is a curve surface I think I can get some kind of bendable base like aluminum mesh like they use for car body repairs to glue under the opening.

Let me know.

Thanks so much,

Brian

[David Tilston]

Mesh would work. But I think I would use a piece of FRP, which is probably similar to what your trailer is made of. You can get it at Home Depot. It is used for walls in public bathrooms. Typically, it has a lumpy side and a flat side that is glued to the wall. Cut it so that one direction is exactly as wide as the holes largest dimension, and the other direction is generously large. Slide it into the hole and turn it so that hole is completely covered. A screw or two to hold it in place. Then glass over the hole. Remove the screws and fill the holes with fibreglass. Sand smooth and paint.

[hghsl]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Mesh would work. But I think I would use a piece of FRP, which is probably similar to what your trailer is made of. You can get it at Home Depot. It is used for walls in public bathrooms. Typically, it has a lumpy side and a flat side that is glued to the wall. Cut it so that one direction is exactly as wide as the holes largest dimension, and the other direction is generously large. Slide it into the hole and turn it so that hole is completely covered. A screw or two to hold it in place. Then glass over the hole. Remove the screws and fill the holes with fibreglass. Sand smooth and paint.

Scamp sells fiberglass panels for repairs. The panels are cutouts from the manufacuring prosses. (Cutouts from window, vent, a/c openings ect) they are 17"X18" on the parts page. I have been able to get larger panels in the past by asking. If they will not sell you the larger panels, just keep asking and move it up the food chain.


https://www.scamptrailers.com/produc...berglass-panel

[canyon Rafter]

Fixing fiberglass is not as hard as one might think. Just take your time and use the advice that is given here and you can do this fix! Most of all enjoy your fiberglass trailer!

[Brian in Riverbank]

Starting today - 2/18/24...thanks so much for your advice.

[Brian in Riverbank]

Turns out that I cannot prefit the fiberglass FRP due to the shape of the hole.

Next step is to make the hole a rectangle and the patch backing will fit no problem.

Also went top shelf and purchased West Systems marine quality epoxy and filler solution. When I'm done, will have loads left over and will advertise the Resin, Hardner and Microlite Filler kit (dispensing pumps included) for shipping only. Keep an eye out when I am done. A thankyou for the forum's help.

[Brian in Riverbank]

Hole is reshaped to rectangle and I have pre-fitted the backing material.

The shell is 0.0625" thick, the backing is flush against the shell.

Do I need to lay in fiberglass mat until the 0.0625" thickness is filled and then epoxy mixed with filler over it?

Or, do I just fill the 0.0625" depth with epoxy/filler slightly thicker and then sand it down?

Pics are coming.

[John Kern]

Thanks for the great replies to this OP. Helpful to me, but…the roof and two walls of my Hunter Compact got smashed by a falling limb. The whole corner is involved. Three flattish surfaces and a rounded corner with tight radius. It may be covered by insurance. What sort of shop is best for this work? If I have to do myself, how to proceed? It’s accessible from inside a closet. Aauugghhh.

[Brian in Riverbank]

That is $300 worth of material for a 1foot by 6" patch plus the backing material.

When I am done I will have 90% left over never to be needed again.