Id plumbing part

[rabbit]

More Burro toilet refit:


#9. Stepping back for a moment.




#10. Cute caps for hold down bolts.




#11. Cap in place on toilet base.




#12. All done and teak floor grate cut down 1" as distance toilet base to aft shower bulkhead was less with the new Thetford hopper.



Continued next post.

jack

[rabbit]

#13. Lucky Me! My upright auxiliary cooler can still travel in the WC despite the loss of space. NOTICE the retention bar and bungee. It goes outdoors after landing.



#14. Say, the new one sure looks stark white against the old gel coat. And the parchment tint was way too rosy. Time, grunge, and UV will solve that.



#15. Keeping my supply shutoff no matter how well this one seals.



jack

[rabbit]

Thanks Jim. Unfortunately, a script, a photog, and a continuity girl are all necessary to really illustrate step by bitter step. Sometimes the mess gets vacuumed and the blood washed off before you get the shot. Well, you know. I tried to do most of the work up to "dry fit" and then disassemble and shoot components but something is lost. Fortunately, it's mostly for ThomasE who knows the pitch and won't jump in where angels fear.

jack

[ThomasE]

You did a great job Jack. Now I'll just have to be brave enough to see what's under my setup. A couple questions...

The original toilet was held on with 2 bolts through the floor and not the standard closet flange/closet bolts?

What seals between the new closet flange and the toilet?

Did you get the standard height or hi-profile toilet? And how does that compare to a household toilet in height. My current Burro toilet seems kind of low.

Any reason you went with handle flush instead of foot flush? I clean and flush the black tank with a hose spraying into the toilet, with my current handle flush I have to bend over and hold it down to keep the flapper open which gets tiring. Was thinking foot flush would hold it open with less effort.

I see your bathroom has an accordian style, is that stock or did you add it yourself? Mine had a glass shower door that opens outward, but was too inconvenient so I removed it and added a shower curtain. But I like the accordian style doors.

[rabbit]

Holddown bolts appeared to be althread ground to a point on the end going into the floor; flange nuts under the floor and holding down toilet. They were pretty rotten. Nut came off one; other side froze and finally pulled thru floor and pan.

Seal between hopper bottom and flange is standard closed cell foam ring supplied with Thetford toilet.

I believe I have the taller model at 17 1/2" hgt.

I chose the hand flush because I was used to it and thought perhaps the linkage to the foot pedal might be more complex or more susceptible to getting out of whack. I keep a large supply of whack on hand for just this situation. I also was unconsciously thinking ahead to the cargo bay for my Coleman cooler altho I installed the floor flange before I discovered the loss of space in that area. I could have got an offset flange which would have set the toilet an inch or so to the rear. I like the strait drop to the tank. Gravity is a wonderful thing. Planned or unplanned the foot treadle that's not there doesn't get in the way. I see why you want the foot treadle.

Trailer had a vinyl accordian-fold when I bought it but the sliders were torn off the top due to the track being screwed to a bowed header. I had to scribe in a white Sintra filler which followed the bow on top and was straight and level on the bottom to which to attach the track. Devil in details! I also have a shower curtain inside the shower. The only "showers" I take are when I'm winterizing. I hate the elcheapo vinyl accordian door from the big box but the choices seem to be cheap and cheerful there or send an arm and a leg to some decor specialist for maybe the same quality.

It seems that the most common part in every plumbing system is the "adaptor." Sometimes you need to make it up as you go along as with the neoprene gasket which I fabricated to stop shower water migration from getting to the floor bolts and exposed edge of floor. Given that the pan was reasonably even and true, I felt it was a better seal than a caulk preparation which might or might not have stuck to the gel coat.

I hope there are some hints here, if only of better components and smarter ways to accomplishment than I resorted to. I really believe the tank grommet is going to be one item in common so if a new one is needed, Dyers RV is the source. I've got my fingers crossed about your shower pan. Go slow.

jack