Improving door fit due to body sag

[JasonK]

Thanks so much for the info. Ive seen many of those and they help a great deal. Since the PO removed the original front bench, notching the existing bench for a full length D shaped Plywood peice, should be easy enough.

One area of concern remains for me though. How would one best attach the top of the door frame to the shell? I figure the hinge side D frame would attach to the square tubing and the latch side to the closet, but what of the top? Ancors through the shell into the top of the frame perhaps?

[Roy in TO]

If you are talking about the upright piece - I'm not sure Jason.
My gut is that for those running a solid piece of wood all the way up they are removing the square tube and screwing through the inset on the door frame where the existing tube is attached. You'll have to filter through the various Screen door mods to see how others have done it. Please post back here with what you find.

As for the piece that runs across the top, I've always assumed that it was only attached to the sides.

[RyeNGinger]

Hi,
Not sure if Roy is still monitoring this thread, but I'm just reaching out to see if he or anyone has the design/dimensions of the curve template that he created to check his trailer.
On the other hand, if he did not have dimensions go make the template, how did he know the radius of the curves?
If anyone is out there, please help!

Thank you!!

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RyeNGinger

Hi,
Not sure if Roy is still monitoring this thread, but I'm just reaching out to see if he or anyone has the design/dimensions of the curve template that he created to check his trailer.
On the other hand, if he did not have dimensions go make the template, how did he know the radius of the curves?
If anyone is out there, please help!

Thank you!!

You are in luck, I recently logged in after being MIA here for about a year.


I made the template using the streetside side of the trailer as a guide. I had to modify the lower portion of the template as the curbside side body drops down lower for the door opening. I may still have the template.


I've also got a spare closet sitting in the garage that was salvaged from someone gutting their boler. I wanted to use that to make a template for the screen door mod which I think will help with the body sag problem.



Where in ON are you?

[parmm]

You can get a Boler/Scamp Stainless Steel Door Hinge Repair Kit at Parts - Where to Find Boler Parts - Boler.ca

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

You are in luck, I recently logged in after being MIA here for about a year.

Welcome back Roy!

[Roy in TO]

Thanks Dave

[RyeNGinger]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

You are in luck, I recently logged in after being MIA here for about a year.


I made the template using the streetside side of the trailer as a guide. I had to modify the lower portion of the template as the curbside side body drops down lower for the door opening. I may still have the template.


I've also got a spare closet sitting in the garage that was salvaged from someone gutting their boler. I wanted to use that to make a template for the screen door mod which I think will help with the body sag problem.



Where in ON are you?

Hey Ron!! This is great news!!! So I was wondering if You chose a location on the boler and used that as the template. But how did you know (or did you assume) that was the correct curvature for the boler? Did you assume that side has the least amount of possible movement so it should be true to original?
My closet is still in place, but I have noticed the latch is ever so slightly out of alignment. Needs a small amount of persuasion to click into place. Overall, my boler looks to be in the same situation as yourself from the start of this post. I have attached some photos for you to see. Just to let you know, the previous owner (or previous previous owner) appeared to have put a bunch of rails across the curb and street sides of This boler. Why? I do not know that answer, but they will be removed!
I have done some intense strapping to pull the shell back into the bench on the hinge side of the door and it looked great. But it did not correct the belly band sag on the hinge side, see the photo with level about 1" above belly band. I know I need to FG the shell back to the bench, but I want to correct the belly band sag simultaneously. Bandaid on a bullet wound if I FG the bench to the shell without correcting what caused the sag in the first place in my opinion.

I am in Windsor, but my sister lives in Toronto (York to be exact) so I go up that way often.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RyeNGinger

So I was wondering if You chose a location on the boler and used that as the template. But how did you know (or did you assume) that was the correct curvature for the boler? Did you assume that side has the least amount of possible movement so it should be true to original?
...
I have done some intense strapping to pull the shell back into the bench on the hinge side of the door and it looked great. But it did not correct the belly band sag on the hinge side, see the photo with level about 1" above belly band. I know I need to FG the shell back to the bench, but I want to correct the belly band sag simultaneously. Bandaid on a bullet wound if I FG the bench to the shell without correcting what caused the sag in the first place in my opinion.

I am in Windsor, but my sister lives in Toronto (York to be exact) so I go up that way often.

I did multiple templates from different areas streetside and found the ones in the most structurally sound areas closely matched.


I think the problem is multi factoral. You have to look at them all. The best way to describe it analogous to adding drywall to metal studs beefs up the structure. You can look at:

1. Frame design
2. Weak Floor
3. Delamination of tabs to structures
4. Wood screws coming loose
5. etc.

Your pics show a few of them. Seeing as I'm in York, I'm not too far from your sis.

Windsor Eh?
Any chance you could bring out some ~4" x 8' aluminum slats for my garage door on one of your trips? I've got some dents in mine.

[RyeNGinger]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

I did multiple templates from different areas streetside and found the ones in the most structurally sound areas closely matched.
I think the problem is multi factoral. You have to look at them all. The best way to describe it analogous to adding drywall to metal studs beefs up the structure. You can look at:[*]Frame design[*]Weak Floor[*]Delamination of tabs to structures[*]Wood screws coming loose[*]etc.
Your pics show a few of them. Seeing as I'm in York, I'm not too far from your sis.

Windsor Eh?
Any chance you could bring out some ~4" x 8' aluminum slats for my garage door on one of your trips? I've got some dents in mine.

Can you not get the slats in your area? I can bring them up sure if you tell me what I’m looking for haha. I could bring a 2x12 as well to trace your template onto, save me the time of trying to match my curve and make my own! I might try my hand at a the template first but it seems like a difficult one to do for sure!

The frame looks very stable still, couldn’t see any cracks or anything. Looks to be in pretty good shape. I have not felt any give to the floor as I walk over it, which certainly brings the delamination and screws coming loose across the trailer. I’ll give it another good once over to see if there is anything that I missed elsewhere on the inside/under side.
The rivet holding the belly band on the hinge side has come loose, which certainly tells me the FG is bowing itself out along the center somewhere.
Lots of work to do to get it back into shape.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RyeNGinger

I could bring a 2x12 as well to trace your template onto, save me the time of trying to match my curve and make my own! I might try my hand at a the template first but it seems like a difficult one to do for sure!

I took a 1x10 or 1x12, cut a notch out in the middle to fit over the belly band. Maybe 2-3 X deeper. Had someone hold it up to the streetside body @ either end of the kitchen cabinet & traced a line using a block against the body. Cut out the excess, checked & repeated as needed.


Long story short ... your bulge is going to be on the hinge side of the door opening, just below the bottom of the square bar. It will closely match the gap in your second picture where the green fiberglass is.
It has been a few years but IIRC, the top of the bar will have moved inwards slightly which is causing the crack in the top right of your door opening when you look at it from the outside.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RyeNGinger

Hi,
On the other hand, if he did not have dimensions go make the template, how did he know the radius of the curves?

I did something like what is in the Compound Shape Copier you can download from the document center.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=322