Installing cutoff valve in toilet water supply line

[Fran L]

NOTE: SEE LATER POST FOR TEXT AND PHOTOS TOGETHER! (Thanks for the posting help Donna!)
I know that this is not a big deal for most folks out there, but it was the first time we had done this so I thought it might be helpful to post a description and photos for other newbies like us!
The photos are posted on the Scamp Yahoo listserv. Here is the link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/scampe...95816/pic/list

We have a 2005 Deluxe Scamp 5th wheel with the Front Bath.

This was done after removing the toilet in order to replace a cracked flush valve which had caused a leak. While we had the toilet off we took the advice of several members to install a cutoff valve. This way we can cut off the water supply to the toilet if we wish.

1. Picture 1. After removing the toilet we cut off the water supply line inside the bathroom leaving about 2 to 3 inches extending from the wall. Be sure to square off the cut.
2. Picture 2. We purchased a cut off valve at a local RV supply shop. We took the supply line into the shop so they could find one that would fit correctly. It did not require any adhesive.
3. Picture 3. Place the threaded collar on the supply line with the threaded end closest to the cut off valve connector. Then push the supply line onto the valve connector. We put a little butter on the inside of the supply line to help slide it over the valve connector – it is a very snug fit. Once the supply line is pushed all the way onto the valve connector, secure the connection by tightening down the threaded collar. Do the same thing with the other side of the supply line which ultimately gets connected to the flush valve.
4. Picture 4 shows the completed cut off valve after it was installed (in the open position) before the toilet was reinstalled.
5. Picture 5 shows it in the closed position after the toilet was reinstalled.

Notes: Our supply line came into the bathroom by first going through the clothes closet wall. When connecting the cut off valve to the supply line that is coming out of the bathroom wall it took two people: one to steady the supply line on the OTHER side of the bathroom wall (inside the clothes closet) while the other person pushed the cut off valve onto the supply line sticking out of the wall in the bathroom. Otherwise you would end up pushing the supply line back through the wall into the closet.
Be careful to install the cut off valve in the proper direction. There will be an arrow on the valve showing the direction of the water flow.

Later I'll post the process of replacing the flush valve which required removing the toilet.

Fran in NM

[Donna D.]

But Fran, not everyone is going to be able to see your pictures. Only members of YahooScampers can view them. Can you post within your thread here? If you'd like to have:
[text]
[pic]
[text]
[pic]

Use the paperclip and place the picture(s) where you want. Picture posting help by Donna D.

Where did you purchase the shut off valve? I like the fact it's all white. Visual, ya know

[Steve_N_Janna]

Fran, I'm about to replace a leaky flush valve in my SeaLand toilet. I'll be watching for your pics. Thanks!

[Fran L]

Here are the photos to go with the instructions. I'll repeat the text so it is all in one post.

This was done after removing the toilet in order to replace a cracked flush valve which had caused a leak. While we had the toilet off we took the advice of several members to install a cutoff valve. This way we can cut off the water supply to the toilet if we wish.

1. Picture 1. After removing the toilet we cut off the water supply line inside the bathroom leaving about 2 to 3 inches extending from the wall. Be sure to square off the cut. In the photo this one is cut on an angle so we had to square it off later before installing the valve.

2. Picture 2. We purchased a cut off valve at a local RV supply shop. We took the supply line into the shop so they could find one that would fit correctly. It did not require any adhesive.

3. Picture 3. Place the threaded collar on the supply line with the threaded end closest to the cut off valve connector. Then push the supply line onto the valve connector. We put a little butter on the inside of the supply line to help slide it over the valve connector – it is a very snug fit. Once the supply line is pushed all the way onto the valve connector, secure the connection by tightening down the threaded collar. Do the same thing with the other side of the supply line which ultimately gets connected to the flush valve.

4. Picture 4 shows the completed cut off valve after it was installed (in the open position) before the toilet was reinstalled.

5. Picture 5 shows it in the closed position after the toilet was reinstalled.


Notes: Our supply line came into the bathroom by first going through the clothes closet wall. When connecting the cut off valve to the supply line that is coming out of the bathroom wall it took two people: one to steady the supply line on the OTHER side of the bathroom wall (inside the clothes closet) while the other person pushed the cut off valve onto the supply line sticking out of the wall in the bathroom. Otherwise you would end up pushing the supply line back through the wall into the closet.
Be careful to install the cut off valve in the proper direction. There will be an arrow on the valve showing the direction of the water flow.

[Fran L]

Donna,
I got the valve at a local RV Sales and Parts store. Just went to the guy at the counter and told him what I needed...I didn't specify white plastic but that's what he had. It was oneof those giant RV Sales places....could fit my 19' Scamp inside of them and still have room to live! I liked that it did not require adhesive, just pressure from the screw on collars. Hope it doesn't leak! We haven't run water through the system yet...
Fran

[Fran L]

Steve & Janna,
I'll try to get those out later today. Have to write up the text. Unfortunately I did not take photos of REMOVING the toilet,just putting everything back together, but it wasn't hard and I'll try to describe it.
Hope it will help!
Later,
Fran

[Donna D.]

Thanks Fran! For both pics and info

[Fran L]

Steve & Janna,
We've just posted the instructions and photos for replacing the flush valve. It is in the Owners Helping Owners forum. Hope you find it helpful.
Fran

[Donna D.]

Direct link: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...1-a-52302.html

[Fran L]

Thanks Donna!

[Gardnpondr]

the putty stuff around those lines, what do you call that? I noticed mine needs some to keep the creepy crawly critters out.

[Ace57]

I think it's called plumbers putty.

[Fran L]

When we did this mod on our Scamp we did not have to disturb that 'sealant'. But I believe it was some sort of silicone...it was solid, not soft like plumbers putty.
On our Escape, we had to replace the flush valve (we had already put in the cutoff valve). In the Escape, the supply line was siliconed through a wall from a storage hatch. We had to cut out the silicone and remove the supply line completely to get the toilet out in order to replace the flush valve. When we reinstalled everything, we used some foam (cut off a piece of pipe foam insulation) to fill the gap. Then we secured the pex sections together with a removable elbow fitting (Sharkbite). We figured that if we ever had to replace the toilet (or the flush valve) again the Sharkbite PEX fitting would make it much easier to disconnect that supply line.

Hard to see the black foam stuffed into the hole through the wall but it is there and we have not had any insect issues...but we haven't had that problem anywhere else in the trailer either. It is the dense foam that comes in preformed to fit around a pipe...the circular form made it easier to fill in around the pex in the hole.


We did not do anything to fill in the hole around the Pex that came in from the water supply...just the hole between the hatch and the bathroom.

[coastsignal]

I installed a standard PEX shutoff in our Eggcamper. Similar to Fran's pic above, but the shutoff is brass and we have the bendable Blue cold water lines. It's nice to have shutoffs for every appliance and faucet. And PEX is very easy to work with. I'm still a PEX newbie, but really like it. If you've never used PEX fittings before--give it a try. It requires a PEX crimp tool, which you might have some luck borrowing from a handy neighbor. Then buy the crimp rings and fittings that go with the tool, as there are at least 3 crimping types. But all 3 types are easy to use. You may have to go to one of the larger hardware stores or big box stores to find the type of fittings you want.

Mark

[Fran L]

You are right the pex stuff is pretty easy to work with.
The nice thing about the Sharkbite fittings (even though they cost more) is that it does not require the crimping tool. Just a little 'ring' device that you use to compress the fitting to allow the pex to pass the 'teeth' of the fitting. You use the same little device to release the fitting and pull the pex out again. The ability to easily remove the fitting was important to us.

[Gardnpondr]

OK Thank you. I'm going to seal every hole I can find.