Installing fridge in Scamp 13

[sharpstick]

I bought the Dometic RM2193 refrigerator(3 way, 110v, 12v and propane) for my 2005 Scamp 13 and am having some issues installing it. Can anyone with a factory installed one tell me how it is installed?
- How do I provide ventilation to remove propane exhaust safely, and remove heat from the enclosed space? I can mount a small fan and grill in the wall to vent into the living space to remove heat, but am concerned about propane exhaust. I currently have it in the hole, but not bolted in so I can slide it out to reach the controls. Heat is building up and it wouldn't get cooler than 50 degrees last time I checked. (It was cooler at first.)
- The controls are mounted on the rear. How can I access them? The rear of the unit is up against the wall under the stove. The only way I can imagine making this work is to cut a hole in the wall and mounting a small door.
- What knob direction changes the temperature? The manual is not clear. Is "7" coolest or warmest?

[stevebaz]

Your fridge should have come with a operation manual and an installation manual. It is important that the fridge be installed per the installation manual.

At minimum you will need a lower access panel on the back side in the shell of the trailer. You will need an upper vent to let heat and exhaust out for the fridge. You will need a side panel to seal the inside of the cabinet so fumes and air doesn't travel from the outside to the inside storage area of the cabinet. You will also need diversion ducting to seal the top of the fridge to the exhaust grill on the back side of the trailer.

On my trailer I had to remove the stove to rebuild the diversion ducting that Scamp built. They used vinyl duct tape and surplus fiberglass sheet used from window and door cut outs.

I rebuilt it with using the same fiberglass pieces and used metal flashing/duct tape. That tape sticks so well, is designed for heat and probably will never fall apart on me. Using vinyl duct tape was cheep and efficient for Scamp but the house of cards was doomed to failure by the cheep vinyl duct tape used.

I don't know how long it was failed before I bought my 1987 Scamp 6 years ago. This risks exhaust fumes in the trailer and excess heat warming up the whole outside of the fridge inside of the cabinet. I wish Scamp did a better job installing the fridge in my Scamp trailer back then.

Some day will come that I will redo the installation and do a proper job with tricks and fixes you can see on line. I already have a thermal cutoff switch and fan to help the fridge in our desert climate.

[Mike_L]

I had one of those 3-way fridges some years ago. Worked great. No electricity required except the 2 D-cells for the lighter. Vented to the outside from the rear through an exterior wall. Controls on the front. You don't want flue gases inside your unit. Maybe another model fridge would work better?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

Your fridge should have come with a operation manual and an installation manual. It is important that the fridge be installed per the installation manual....

If if it didn't... https://www.scamptrailers.com/images...191_RM2193.pdf

Proper absorption fridge installation is pretty involved. Someone with the same size Scamp AND same size fridge might be able to help you figure out how Evelands does it, but that is not guaranteed to be fully proper or best. Since I have a 4 cf one in a Scamp 16 (with roof vent), my rig wont help you. GL

[stevebaz]

in the manual that 1" clearance in the back of the fridge is very important if you want the fridge to work well.