Installing Water Pump and Faucet with Switch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-19-2007, 04:49 AM   #21
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But it was. With hoses re-arranged for a test to draw water from a pot that was held above the pump.... everything worked. Water cascaded into my sink. Birds soon came to frolic and splash about.

Problem number one was the realization that since this was not a self priming pump there was really no practical place for it to be installed that was below the tank. Certainly its current location, though beautiful, was out. I could still deal with that, though it means major work, which I don't mind, unless I got to do it twice.

But then problem number two showed up. This pump was leaking big time from some hidden seams and or seals. It's not looking like I can get a seal/repair/replacement kit for a pump made in 1981.
Myron, a simple in-line check valve is all you need to keep your pump primed after you do it once. But the leaking pump is going to foul this idea up also. You need to seal the existing leaks or buy a new pump then just install a check valve in-line from tank to pump. This will keep the water from running back into tank when pump is off.
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Old 04-19-2007, 01:26 PM   #22
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I am thinkin' it's time to repost the "Oil Changes for Women and Men" instructions.

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Old 04-19-2007, 04:55 PM   #23
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Well, now I wish it were just seals. Don't think there's a remedy for this leak. Removed pump for close inspection and found cracks in the housing.

I'll see to getting a check valve to go along with the inline filter just won on ebay when ever I get a new pump.
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:42 AM   #24
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Myron, you would be surprized what a 2 part epoxy will fix... I think you could fix this pump with some as long as the epoxy doesn't get in any of the working parts of the pump just smear it on outside of crack and inside of seam and let dry required time and it will be alot less expensive then new pump.
You would be surprized to hear I fixed similar cracks on a pump that had frozen and it worked fine with no leaks.
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:44 AM   #25
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Try J-B Weld for the epoxy brand......I found it to work very well on almost everything including engine blocks......rough up the area with about 120 grit sandpaper to help it stick.....the fun part is trying to get the epoxy to stay in a spot on a rounded surface as it wants to run off.....good luck......Benny
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Old 04-21-2007, 08:27 AM   #26
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I have Loctite Quick-Set 2 part epoxy handy so decided to take the pump apart and use that stuff inside of the cracked chamber. That was yesterday. Today I checked on my work, hopeful for a fully cured bond.

I lose, Benny.

As seen here, the Shurflo plastic repels Loctite Epoxy. Was able to chip it off like it was dried eggshells. Still waiting for the Shurflo customer assistance folks to answer my request for info on what I can use on this ?rubberized? plastic compound they made their pump housings from.
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Old 04-21-2007, 11:08 AM   #27
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...when ever I get a new pump.
I guess sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and get a new part...
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Old 05-04-2007, 04:19 AM   #28
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I guess sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and get a new part...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was ealier in this tread asking about hooking an electric pump to an older hand pump faucet but that is no longer applicatable as after hooking up the city water side the faucet leaked bad I will have to replace it now anyway .
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:18 AM   #29
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Re: biting bullets....same here, Canoeguy. Got a new but pre-owned Surflo pump off ebay for a reasonable price that is quieter, powerful, IS self-priming, has an on-demand internal switch, and allowed me to install it exactly where I wanted it. That's everything the old pump was not.

End result: Rewarding. Very-Very re-warding.
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