Interior fiberglass furniture, what to paint it with?

[Cmtravels]

So we need to paint the interior fiberglass cabinets and furniture of our 82 Scamp. Very yellowed and cleaning did not work. We have removed them all from the camper.

The first plan was to sand, dewaxer, and use the Rustoleum Topside paint. However I'm now rethinking this because 1) it's so cold out our window of work is about one day a week here. Research shows at least 3 coats so a possibility of several weeks to get it done. And we need to get these back in to get other stuff done. 2) I'm not really loving the white. It's almost a baby blue?

So my question is what did y'all paint your cabinets wit? If you used a store bought latex enamel how long has it been on and has it held up to cleaning? Especially around the kitchen area. Gloss or semi gloss?

Any other thoughts appreciated!

Thanks!


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[Bob Miller]

I used Rustoleum Topside paint on two tent trailers I rebuilt and, in both cases got good coverage with 2 coats using tip & roll technique. BUT, you might want to add some heat to help curing. 2nd coat went on after overnight dry. (about 20 hours)


Ooops, I just remembered, that was 2 coats of color after a coat of undercoat, so three is most correct if you use the undercoat.

[Eddie Longest]

I use white appliance exopy to paint the inside figerlass. Clean it up real good and spray, no primer required it costs about $6 a can from WM.
Eddie

[Cmtravels]

Bob, yes we have two electric heaters running non stop in the garage but we will have to do the cabinet painting outside. No room left in the garage to paint. (Can't move the camper out either while we paint. Neighborhood rules. :-/)

Eddie, how long has the appliance paint been on the cabinets? Any problems with it scratching off? Did you sand and dewax?
Thanks!


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[Eddie Longest]

I painted the cabinets in a 82 S-13. I only kept the trailer six months after painting the cabinets but with no paint issues. I also was concerned about scratching of the paint. I don't think any paint will hold up on the kitchen counter top. At the time IKEA was selling 1" thick maple counter tops. I covered the counter top with that, also to cover up some unwanted holes drilled by the PO. On the seat benches I was only going to paint only the bench faces, since the cushions covered the top. But after painting the kitchen cabinets the bench faces seemed OK so I left then as they were.
I did fiberglass repair on the cabinets, sanded and dewaxed them. The Paint says not to prime your surface. The paint takes overnight to really get hard but you get a pretty good hard finish. Just follow the can directions and wear a mask when painting. The appliance paint is epoxy.
The white is really a bright white but once the cabinet doors are installed it really tends to tame down the whiteness. Get a can and do a little test painting and see how you like it.
Eddie

[Bob Miller]

That's a bummer about having limited space and what sounds like restrictive C&C's to work around.
A couple of points from my past experiences:


1. The term "Epoxy" is tossed around rather loosely. If you are looking for a really hard surface, you really need to get a two part paint. Here's a link about "Epoxy" and why they can attach that handle to lesser products: Epoxy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


2. I have tried the spray can "Appliance Epoxy" on a stove top in an RV and about all I can say is that it was easy to re-spray every couple of months.


3. My experience has been that anything in a spray-can from a retail source, is not in the category of "Long Lasting". There may be some specialty paints that last, but I am unaware of any and, considering how long FGRV's last, you want to do everything for the long haul.


4. The example the Rustoleum Topside Paint I used is based on the first job now being stored outside for over almost two years without any indication of deterioration. BUT, if you want really long lasting and hard, I would suggest using the Interlux Briteside Marine paint I used on the exterior of my Hunter. As advertised, it gives a sprayed-on finish using the Rolland tip application technique.
Here's a link: INTERLUX Brightside® One-Part Polyurethane Paint | West Marine
Don't let the price scare you, it's really good stuff.


5. However, with all paints, especially over fiberglass, I recommend always using the recommended primer/undercoat. With the Interlux products it's mandatory and becomes the interface between the old surface/coating and the new coating.


And, IKEA is still selling the solid Beech counter top material. I have used that in about 6 projects, including my Hunter, over the past 6-8 years. Here's a link for that, difference sizes are available:
HAMMARP Countertop - 98x1 1/8 " - IKEA

[Cmtravels]

Thanks for all the info!! We are planning on using the the red and white brightside for the outside. (Unless I can find someone to spray it for a REALLY good price.)

As for the countertop, we lucked out and found corian countertop for $15!




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