Interior Help!

[bamcneil]

Hi everyone! I know this is a frequented topic, and I have been reading numerous threads about it but honestly it just makes me feel more lost on what to do- ha! I'm hoping for some help with what I should line the interior of my 1974 Eco Featherlight with. Currently it has poorly pieced together Reflectix, if I go this route I feel like I'll need to start over with it, so it's basically a fiberglass shell (unfortunately, nothing original hiding underneath the Reflectix).

I live in Missoula, MT and am hoping for something to keep relatively warm in the spring and fall. I won't be running A/C and I'm really not concerned about insulation to keep it cool in the heat, it gets cool at night here most of the summer so opening windows will be sufficient. However, we're hoping to use it for Spring/Fall, which at night will get around 30-40 degrees or so.

Reflectix with hull liner on top: This seems to be a fan favorite, but how difficult is this route? I feel like it would be near impossible to get this to look good, I'm relatively crafty but feel a little lost on how to start something like this. Also, I keep reading that the R-value is poor with Reflectix if there isn't an airspace between layers, which seems like it would be impossible to achieve here. I want it to look decent too, and if that's pretty difficult to achieve then I'm not sure I want to go this route... sounds like an overwhelming task that would be a bear to complete, but if it's not I would love some input/tips! Are there any patterns out there already? How much does this route usually cost as well?

Dragonskin: A local RV servicer suggested I go this route, and just coat the entire shell (subfloor included) and then paint over it. How effective is this as a liner, what's insulation like, and is it impossible to clean?

Painting the fiberglass directly and getting a nicer furnace? Or making some type of a quilted cover with a vent space for really cold nights? How cold is the fiberglass alone?

The RV servicer also mentioned some type of a spray coating that they could do, but says that it's not very durable and can crack/chip with a slight blow- doesn't sound ideal.

There aren't many resources here (Missoula, MT) for people that can help with any other type of crazy liners that I have been able to find, so odds are relatively high it will need to be something I can do. I'm pretty crafty but minimally handy, but know handy people!

Reeeeally hoping for something relatively affordable too!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!

-Beth

[floyd]

Attachment 145712Whatever you decide, here are a couple of points...


1] simply painting the inside would be a comfort disaster.
You would have too much light filtering through, and you would suffer greatly from hot and cold , while also suffering from an unbelievable amount of condensation.


2] What ever the slide rule types are telling you, the combination of Reflectix and Ratfur is the best and most comfortable choice available, and the best OEM offering in the Fiberglass RV industry. IMO


There are of course other viable choices, (I.E. Ozite over reflectix)
or foam backed Carpet similar to Casita's offering.


The addition of extra upper cabinets would be a GREAT idea and would GREATLY facilitate the installation and appearance of your wall lining.


The cabinets shown below were hand made with very little effort and a very small budget...

[Jon in AZ]

I agree. 30-40°F isn’t all that cold. We’ve had our stock (Reflectix and fat fur) Scamp out in those temperatures a number of times. The furnace can easily keep up with perhaps 25% run cycles. A small ceramic heater running continuously on a low or medium setting will also work well if you have power. Add temporary sheets of Reflectix over the windows for even better performance.

Condensation is the biggest reason you don’t want smooth, hard, uninsulated walls.

I won’t say installation is exactly easy, but the combination of Reflectix plus marine hull liner is more forgiving than many of the alternatives. The Reflectix you can piece together as needed with foil tape on the seams. When you get to the headliner, I suggest looking at a Scamp with rat fur. The way Scamp lays out the pieces is very efficient and minimizes visible seams. Upper cabinets cover many of them.

From a “slide rule” perspective, a layer of closed cell foam with a marine hull liner top layer would be better, but the foam is more expensive and harder to make a neat installation. Since we’re only talking about a quarter inch of insulation in most small fiberglass trailers, the slight added R value is not worth the trouble or cost.

How about a link to the "Dragonskin" product your dealer was recommending? I did a google search and there are a number of products with variations of that name. The most likely appears to be a spray-on foam. My concerns include (1) it's hard to get a uniformly thin layer and (2) most spray foams are intended for installation inside a solid wall and may not have the durability for an exposed application (but perhaps "dragon skin" implies it is tougher than other similar products). Would it be possible to test it on a small board, let it dry and cure, and see what you think?

Whatever you decide, don’t skip, rush, or cheap out on this step. Besides cold weather, it will also help keep the interior more comfortable in warm weather. A modicum of insulation (plus a powered roof vent and a bright white exterior) goes a long way without air conditioning, especially in the low-humidity West. A well-finished interior increases the value of your trailer both to yourself and to a future buyer down the road.