It Started as a Kitchen Reno- Project Boler

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Luis

Hello Ian, great show off in Oregon I hear!

Ian (and Joan's) was one of the more "toured" trailers of the Oregon Gathering. Honestly the pics don't do it justice. I went and looked a couple of times!

[Luis]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

This molding is a replacement option for the original 2 piece locking gasket used for the front and rear acrylic widows. The fiberglass around the window is about 1/8" thick, you install this molding right over the ensulite insulation attached to the shell, yes this has a total thickness over 1/8" but there are 2 factors to consider; 1) the insulation will compress to almost nothing; 2) the actual window thickness is 3/16" so the wider body thickness is compensated in the thinner window section. With the seal over the insulation the look is excellent and the seal is water tight.

I can take picture tomorrow and post them.

A Pic is worth a thousand words!
thanks.

I follow, and agree, insulation is very compressible thats not the concern.
The question is with the hull liner (carpet like material) installed with tack adhesive on top of the 1/4 high density foam.

do you place the gasket on top of this layer too, or do you install only over insulation and then fishing the liner to match the rubber seal!!!!

...looking forward to your pics.
Luis

[Ian G.]

Yes Lois, I see your view

My Boler does not have Hull Liner, I have left the "Elephant Skin" insulation in.
Here are some shot from both the outside and inside, I think you will agree this looks good from either angle.

[sooveroo]

Hey Luis,

I'm no expert, but I did just put hull liner in my little Boler. We put the hull lining up to the moulding and cut it long enough so I could tack it in with a thin putty knife. So my thought would be to pull the hull liner back a little bit and up the moulding on and then do the same? That said, we were working with some existing insulation my grandpa had put in after the original moulding was in place, so I think the moulding on mine is UNDER the insulating (or the insulation just comes right up to it? Can't recall) and then the hull lining is put on top and tucked in as I described.

Wow. I actually think I might have made this MORE confusing, not less. Sorry. But maybe it makes sense


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Ian G.]

If your unit has insulation under a hulliner I would trim back the insulation where the molding seats but leave the hulliner right to the window opening, The molding would then hold the hulliner completly and it would look good.

[Ian G.]

One day I thought there has to be an easier way to check the level of the trailer when setting up camp.

We currently use a bubble level on the counter but this requires adjusting one corner or end then running inside the trailer to check the level … running to the appropriate corner to make an adjustment … running back to check.
This sounds more like an exercise program that the simple task of leveling your trailer.

I came up with this unique solution, by using a self-leveling laser level I set it up so it could be swiveled to aim at the side wall and to the back wall inside the trailer.

Mount the bracket and laser to an appropriate location, one that can allow you to see the laser lines on the inside walls by looking through windows close to your leveling points.

Making sure the trailer is leveled using the conventional bubble levels, and then place small reference marks on the walls that aligns with the laser cross-hairs.
Now when I pull into a campsite I turn the laser on and point it at the side wall, immediately I know how many blocks I need under the tires to get close to level.

With the trailer on the leveling blocks I can look through the back window and adjust the side-to-side level, then I swing the laser to aim at the rear wall and looking through the front window I level the trailer back to front.

More pictures are posted on my blog Proud Canadian

Laser and bracket set-up


Installed on my closet


Showing laser lines and "target" on the side wall

[tnt65]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

I read somewhere that a beaded curtain will keep bugs out, not sure how true it is but I love the way it looks.

Every time I see pics of your trailer, I am more amazed!

[Luis]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

If your unit has insulation under a hulliner I would trim back the insulation where the moulding seats but leave the hulliner right to the window opening, The moulding would then hold the hulliner completely and it would look good.

I think this makes a lot of sense.

this is what I am going to be doing. The width (combined width) of FG shell and hull liner is not going to be excessive and the hull liner is going to keep the foam insulation tight and neat at the moulding.

cheers folks!
Luis.

[Luis]

Originally Posted by sooveroo

Hey Luis,

I'm no expert, but I did just put hull liner in my little Boler. We put the hull lining up to the moulding and cut it long enough so I could tack it in with a thin putty knife. So my thought would be to pull the hull liner back a little bit and up the moulding on and then do the same? That said, we were working with some existing insulation my grandpa had put in after the original moulding was in place, so I think the moulding on mine is UNDER the insulating (or the insulation just comes right up to it? Can't recall) and then the hull lining is put on top and tucked in as I described.

Wow. I actually think I might have made this MORE confusing, not less. Sorry. But maybe it makes sense


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

More confusing, no less!
lol

[slavandheather]

Hey Ian, I have a question about how you "frenched" (whatever that term actually means!) the lights in the back. Did you first glass in the cups from the inside and then cut off the lip on the outside, or does it make more sense to cut off the lip and then glass in? I would imagine glass-in first could be easier, but I though I'd ask! Thanks!

Slav

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by slavandheather

Hey Ian, I have a question about how you "frenched" (whatever that term actually means!) the lights in the back. Did you first glass in the cups from the inside and then cut off the lip on the outside, or does it make more sense to cut off the lip and then glass in? I would imagine glass-in first could be easier, but I though I'd ask! Thanks!

Slav

They are actually still fastened from the outside. I ground off the gel coat on the lip to thin it then used a combination if glassing the bucket in and using smaller head countersink stainless steel pop rivets to secure it. Very little filler was needed to smooth out the area arond the narrowed flange.

Does this make sense?

[slavandheather]

Got it, thanks. It looks amazing. I still have to decide which way to pursue...

Slav

[Ian G.]

This is probably proof that a custom project is never finished. Last weekend I spent 2 days cutting up bumpers from a vintage 1959 Jaguar Mk2 to build a new rear bumper for my Boler. The curve of the Jaguar closely matches the curve of the Boler but the Jaguar is 16" narrower which meant we had to section a 16" piece from the Jaguar front bumper into the rear, make some adjustments to the overall curvature, and build mounting brackets.

original 1959 Jaguar Mk 2 bumpers


Cutting a section from the front bumper to widen the rear.


TIG welding the sections together


The finished "rough" bumper. Needs metalworking to remove the 55+ years of wear and abuse, grinding, polishing and finally chroming.


More pictures on my Blog http://www.proud-canadian.com/bumper-for-my-boler/

[Spanke]

I feel remorse for the Jaguar.

Spanke

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by Spanke

I feel remorse for the Jaguar.

Spanke

LOL why? The bumper is now on something that runs and won't rust away.

[Rick Mooyman]

Awesome Ian, would love to see a pic of the new bumper up against the Boler. I don't feel sorry for the Jag. Now the bumper will know it is going places and not held back by bad Lucas wiring. LOL

I would love to change the bumper on my Boler and am also looking for a light to use as a high mount brake light.

Rick

[francene]

Nice work, Ian. I like your 'cut and paste' welding job. I'm sure once you finish polishing, it will look very cool.

Carry on,
Fran

[C&G in FL]

Very neat, and innovative as it is not your typical square bumper.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[MC1]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

LOL why? The bumper is now on something that runs and won't rust away.

Wow, Ian, amazing. A classic Jag bumper on your Boler. Too

I did the same kind of bumper mod on a car once.

Was reworking an AMC Pacer. The original front bumper was horrid but I found a nice front bumper at the wreckers from a 73 Buick. Like you I had to cut and reshape a bit but in the end it looked great. The car and bumper are still on the road being used today.

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by francene

Nice work, Ian. I like your 'cut and paste' welding job. I'm sure once you finish polishing, it will look very cool.

Carry on,
Fran

Originally Posted by CPW

Very neat, and innovative as it is not your typical square bumper.

Thank you, the shape of both the profile and the curve, even the bumperettes were exactly what I envisioned. My next challenge is finding a chroming company that will do a good job, looking at the reviews of the shops near me I would not take a toaster to then for replating. I am seeing good reviews from Kelowna Electroplating Ltd. Anyone have any experience or recommendations?