Karin's Campster Renovation - Page 15 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-19-2018, 09:27 PM   #281
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
My big news of the day is I now have an AGM 12/160 amp hour deep cycle battery I went to my local marine supply store to pick up a vent fitting and decided to look at their batteries to see if they had a slim line one so I and get some dimensions for space planning. They did have one and it was deeply discounted as it had a scratch on the case but it was not damage that compromised the safety. So as it was being offered for less than the stores cost, as savings of $350!!!! it went home with me. My friend had offered to get me a house battery for my birthday, now he does not have shop

I have been busy with some "spring cleaning". I let my Sunrader motorhome go to a new owner as I don't need two RVs. But that means all the tools and misc stuff inside it had to be dealt with and merged into the trailer project or gone "elsewhere".

I got a dozen of the 3 gallon sized zip lock bags to organize parts by category such as plumbing, wiring, lights, fasteners, etc. I like them because I can see into them and they don't take up as much storage space as plastic bin boxes. Later after the trailer renovation is done they will be easy to reuse later on for other sorting my stuff for travel such as clean clothes, laundry, dry goods, hoses, electrical cords, etc.

It took some searching to find a fuel tank for my diesel stove/heater but I did find one that will do even though not exactly the shape I was looking for. Not easy to find tanks that are natural colored, semi-transparent, fuel resistant plastic so you can see at a glance what the fuel level is. I know that only a few members use diesel for heating but I will post the link to the source for the tanks. This is the same company I purchased my Uniseal water and waste tank fittings from. https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...4163&catid=578

I will have to do some more adapting as I want to put an external fuel filler fitting through the shell so I can fill the tank from outside to prevent getting fuel spills inside. So tomorrow there is more internet shopping to do since I can't find the parts I need from local sources. This means I am not yet finished putting holes through the shell.

It was a long cold winter, it has been so nice to have a few days of warm sun this week.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2018, 09:39 AM   #282
Senior Member
 
Buggeee's Avatar
 
Name: Buggeee
Trailer: Playpac
OH
Posts: 327
Congrat on your big batt
Buggeee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2018, 01:45 AM   #283
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggeee View Post
Congrat on your big batt
Thanks! I feel very lucky to have come across it.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2018, 07:16 PM   #284
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Click image for larger version

Name:	floor under sink 1.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	260.4 KB
ID:	118423
As was original in the Campster the plywood flooring did not extend fully under the cabinets.
Click image for larger version

Name:	floor under sink.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	31.6 KB
ID:	118424
So I made a filler panel using marine plywood.

My new tanks for fresh & grey water and for the diesel fuel for the stove will arrive tomorrow. So today I have to level the floor under the sink cabinet with a marine plywood infill panel to provide a better foundation support under the tanks. I will also be doing the same thing on the other side where my toilet will sit. The fiberglass shell is strong but it does flex if you put weight on it in that area so it is better to have the tanks sit on top of a plywood surface to better distribute the weight over a wide area. The original Campsters only had a 4'wide piece of plywood flooring down the center that was only as wide as the distance between the wheel wells which left the bare fiberglass shell floor under the cabinets.

This extra plywood floor panel section will be adhered into place using thickened epoxy. That thick epoxy will extend all the way to the walls filling up any voids and be leveled to the upper surface of the plywood so that no water can ever get under the panel or into the edges of the wood to create rot.

The fiberglass shell of the trailer curves in along the lower edges which means I have to use a sander to taper the underside of the plywood along those edges so that it will sit level with the main plywood flooring. That task is lots of trail fit, remove a little more here and there kind of task checking for level after each adjustment. As shown in the second photo I use a straight edge to check for level between the original floor and this filler panel.

My Campster renovation has lots of this type of small modifications to allow for some upgrades in RV amenities. As I will be living in the trailer for months at a time some of these modifications will make my daily life easier.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2018, 02:18 AM   #285
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Click image for larger version

Name:	tanks.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	227.6 KB
ID:	118491
I have a good fit under the sink area now with a tank for fresh and a tank for grey water and a fuel tank for the stove with room left over to put them on a small riser so I can store hoses or cords underneath and also have some room over them for items on a shelf. Of course they are just sitting on the floor at the moment to verify that they will indeed fit just right.

I have a ways to go yet before I get all the cabinetry built. Before I started framing the cabinets I wanted to have the tanks on hand so I would not have to try to crawl inside a cabinet to get them set up with fittings and hold down straps.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2018, 02:47 AM   #286
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
My mother's day was spent on some shopping and design time. That gave my back a break from bending chores inside the trailer.

I am just finalizing the last of the thru hull fittings I need to get done before I put up the wall paneling. There are a few of them that are unique to my Campster project, they come from the marine supply industry rather than the RV industry. For instance this small fitting in the image below that is for running cables through the wall. I have one of them on each side of the lower front wall right where the A frame of the trailer tongue comes out from underneath. On one side the fitting will be used for the trailer light wiring and on the other side it will hold two coax cables for external antennas for UHF/VHF and for the 4G reception from a wifi signal booster for my cell phone service. Here is an image from a Kayak supply store of the thru hull cable fitting. I bought mine at West Marine, they stock it in the radio equipment fittings area. It is called a two hole wire cap. It is not a very large fitting, just over an inch across in diameter on the exterior and it is not very tall in thickness. It will make a tidy, watertight job of bringing those cables to the interior space. They also come in the color white.
Click image for larger version

Name:	2hole wire cap.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	43.0 KB
ID:	119107

For the second half of the day I was on the computer.
My stove/heater is diesel powered and has an exhaust fitting to take out the fumes. It is very fuel efficient. After having a conversation about using it in an RV the dealer said one issue might be if the wind is blowing strong against a large flat surface the exhaust gas might get pushed back into the tube. So I have designed a small baffle for that. Explanation of the design and the material below the image of my project design.
Click image for larger version

Name:	vent baffle.JPG
Views:	21
Size:	22.1 KB
ID:	119108
As the exhaust port is not all that many inches below the overlapping join line on the trailer I needed to prevent overly warm air from building up in the overhang at that joint on the Campster so my metal wind baffle is made to prevent that potential heat issue as well. Of course it is not actually all that hot of air but better safe than sorry as I have a small vinyl edge trim to cover the rough edge of that fiberglass overhang. No point in having that trim get deformed.

I have some background work time from my career as an aircraft mechanic at Boeing that involved time spent making sheet metal parts so I will be fabricating the baffle myself. At the workshop space here there is a small bending jig my friend made that is placed into his hydraulic press. I will use that to make the bends. Sometime ago I did a dumpster dive check to see what my neighbors tossed in there during their weekly cleanup. Among the their scraps was a 12 long piece of 5" wide, powder coated, 22 gauge aluminum. It is perfect for this little custom job as I can paint it black to match the low sidewall area. Bare aluminum is difficult to paint so this already powder coated metal leftover is a real treasure to have on hand.

Since my bends are not being made at 90 degrees I will use this small tool to check to see if it matches my drawing.

Name:   metal protractor.jpg
Views: 265
Size:  5.4 KB

I did one other job today, it was a labor trade, I did dog walking/sitting all day. My payment will be that my friend is going to help me remove the old bolts that hold the shell onto the trailer. They will need to be cut or drilled out as the nuts are rusted tight onto the bolts. As they are shoulder bolts with that squared area under the bolt heads any attempt to remove the nuts by using a wrench will just end up damaging the plywood flooring they are set into. I learned that the hard way on my other RV. Last thing my friend Don said before heading home was he was going to make a jig to center a drill onto the end of the bolt where it comes through the nut and drill it out from underneath the trailer. It is always fun living with a very clever professional product designer. I never know what solution to an issue he will decide to use for a job. I am grateful for his help as my shoulders would be in extreme pain with all that drilling into steel.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2018, 08:41 PM   #287
Senior Member
 
Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
Illinois
Posts: 503
Would it be possible to get a nut splitter on the bolt? I have one that works for nuts, uses a screw/ratchet set-up. Don't know that it would be all that much easier than the drill idea, but with a electric drill and socket might be just as fast.
EricAllyn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2018, 10:10 PM   #288
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricAllyn View Post
Would it be possible to get a nut splitter on the bolt? I have one that works for nuts, uses a screw/ratchet set-up. Don't know that it would be all that much easier than the drill idea, but with a electric drill and socket might be just as fast.
That was the first thing I tried but the piece that tightens against the nut gets held too far away from the bottom surface of the metal frame barely biting into the nut so that was a no-go. It might have worked it they had put a heavy duty washer under the nut which spaced it further away from the surface.

Compared to what I have read in the forum about some other brands of trailers this one was well attached to the frame, they used lots of good strong bolts when it was built.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2018, 10:12 PM   #289
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Click image for larger version

Name:	up in the air.JPG
Views:	25
Size:	51.5 KB
ID:	119304
Some jobs require a little more crawlspace. This afternoon we got the trailer jacked up so we could put the steel ramps under it. That was step one of replacing the old bolts that hold the shell onto the frame. I will keep it up there another day or so afterwards so I can put some rust treatment on the frame. I will also be putting fiberglass over some holes where the original cabinet bolts went down through the floor and the shell but not through the framing. I won't be using those old locations for the new cabinetry. Another chore while it is up high is to attach a ground wire to the frame and pass it to the interior through a grommet.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2018, 07:42 AM   #290
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
Registry
bolts that hold shell onto trailer

My Trillium 4500 also had carriage bolts holding the shell onto the frame, 8 fairly thick bolts, at least 1/4". I was able to remove 5 of them by somehow clamping a vise grip wrench onto the very shallow head and then turning off the nut below with another wrench. The 3 remaining are more difficult, can't get the grip tight enough on the heads. I plan to cut the nuts off.

I replaced the first 5 with 3/8" SS hex head bolts and nylock nuts w/washers.
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2018, 03:14 PM   #291
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
jeepers creepers!

For the bolts that secure the trailer to the frame. Wherever the bolts are inside of the cabinets hex bolts will be used to replace the original carriage bolts. But there are a few bolts that are in the center aisle area so I will have to use carriage bolts for those to keep the heads level with the surface of the plywood so I don't have a lump in the floor covering. My friend who is working on taking out the bolts is on a Sunday hike today so that chore is on standby until tomorrow.

Today I slid underneath the trailer on a creeper so I could get a close look at some damage to the underside of the shell. I took a photo of part of the damaged area so you could see what I found. What you are looking at is the rusted tips of a row of metal staples that has busted through the fiberglass gel coat. Fortunately you are not likely to have to deal with this problem unless you too have a PO who did not check to see if they had the right fastener length.
Click image for larger version

Name:	row of staples.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	28.0 KB
ID:	119356
I finally figured out what caused the damage. A previous owner must have taken out the original vinyl and replace it with some carpet. Then to hold the carpet in place they used staples that were just a tiny bit too long. So they went through the plywood under-layment and busted through the shell. The photo is of the line of staples that went across the width of the trailer just forward of the wheel wells. But they also put staples along the edges of the plywood the whole length of the trailer on both sides. Word of advice to all you renovators...only use carpet tape or other types of adhesive to secure flooring materials, do not use any staples or tacks.

I will be spending the rest of the day cleaning the surface and doing some sanding. I did some small spot grinding of those tiny metal tips back below the surface using my Dremel and then did some sanding to level the raised areas they caused. Next I will mix up some epoxy and filler to create a fairing paste and then i will have a nice fiberglass surface that has no leaks.

A very frustrating situation but not as much work as I thought at first glance.

Break time at the beach today, partly sunny with a very low tide. It is about 50 steps from the trailer to the beach but I don't have a view of the beach from the trailer.

Click image for larger version

Name:	beach.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	119371
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 09:16 PM   #292
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Some days the extent of the project really gets me down in the dumps. The last 24 hours the cause has been the damage to the frame under the trailer. I am under there working on replacing the hold down bolts. The cost of potentially having to replace the frame or the hassle of taking the shell off the frame and having a mobile welder come and repair it is what was stressing me out.


But today was better because after consulting with my friend Don we came up with a repair scheme that will avoid all that trouble and expense of getting a new frame or removing the trailer from the old frame and it does not require doing any welding either. Having two heads under a trailer was a big help. It is good to have a friend who grew up with a ranch in the family where it was expected that everyone learn how to repair equipment instead of replacing it. We of course went back and forth with various concepts of what if...maybe not because.. I think that is more than is necessary, until we reached.. hey that will be fairly quick and simple to do, a minimal amount of labor, cost effective and strong enough.

Counting my blessings that the overall structural integrity of the trailer frame is still good. Four lengths of angle iron and some bolts will resolve the issues.

I find it interesting that it was the leaks into the interior which were the cause of the failure of the frame underneath. The water on the surface of the floor ran into the dips in the plywood where the carriage bolts were cinched down. Then it went down the bolts and onto the lower surface of the tube. You could tell by the extent of the rot in the steel in the tube by the door that it was sitting on a very slight slope towards the rear but close fairly to being level. So my advice to all of you is never ignore leaks, it is not just the interior that can get damaged by them. Also if you have a Campster it is a good idea to drill a small diameter weep hole in the bottom of the square framing near the welded intersections if you have bolts going through that section of the framing. That way if the trailer sits on even a slight slope and you do have a leak from above which lets water into the frame then it has a place to get out instead of filling up the low end of a tube. So taking my own advice means tomorrow I will be drilling a half dozen small diameter holes.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 09:48 PM   #293
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2009 17 ft Casita Freedom Deluxe
Posts: 857
I would appreciate a picture of about where you drill them for reference on mine. I may not have the original frame but the design could create a similar problem.
Dave Fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 10:36 PM   #294
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Fish View Post
I would appreciate a picture of about where you drill them for reference on mine. I may not have the original frame but the design could create a similar problem.
Click image for larger version

Name:	weep hole.JPG
Views:	17
Size:	47.9 KB
ID:	119478
It would be difficult to see the hole in a photo so I made an illustration for you. The small hole is drilled in the tube that has the open end which is welded against the closed side section of another tube. Put the hole fairly close to the weld but not in the weld. I have it shown a little further away than it would be in real life just so you can see it better. A 3/16 drill would be large enough, an 1/8" would also work but might be more prone to clogging up if there has already been water and rust in the tube. Do make sure the hole is still unclogged by running a drill bit or piece of wire into the hole once a year.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2018, 08:42 AM   #295
Senior Member
 
Bruce Thomas's Avatar
 
Trailer: U-Haul CT13
Posts: 778
Registry
If you were near I'd build you a new frame ...after all that hard work you did.....I guess the difference in frames among similar trailers is glaring...compact reall has no place to trap water in a tube...it's "c" channel and angle iron...dint know the trails west was different.
Bruce Thomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 12:53 AM   #296
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Thomas View Post
If you were near I'd build you a new frame ...after all that hard work you did.....I guess the difference in frames among similar trailers is glaring...compact reall has no place to trap water in a tube...it's "c" channel and angle iron...dint know the trails west was different.
The Campsters certainly do have a very robust frame. The water issue on mine was purely the cause of it being left sitting for a lot of years with the door and window leaking on the floor. What a shame that happened but it is not the end of the line for the frame. I appreciate the offer but I have realized I don't need a new frame, I just need a few feet of angle iron to keep it going for many more years.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 03:14 PM   #297
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
A very lucky find today. There has been a guy doing some spring clean up of some previous tenants discards on the property. One of the things he pulled up out of the dirt was indeed in my eyes a piece of buried treasure. I now have an excellent quality battery box that was made for my size of battery. That will keep the shell of the battery nicely protected and of course protect my trailer if the case the battery case for whatever reason leaks. No lid for it but that is not an essential component for where I have it located. But who knows maybe the lid will show up too. Working in the parking lot here has some drawbacks but in terms of having free materials from the cast-offs of other tenants it certainly does have its plus side
Still has some mud in it in this photo, I was just checking to be sure it was the correct sized box. Sure enough a perfect match. It is all washed up now, that only took a couple of minutes.

Click image for larger version

Name:	battery bin.JPG
Views:	21
Size:	68.6 KB
ID:	119510
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 08:22 PM   #298
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Click image for larger version

Name:	under sink.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	60.6 KB
ID:	119597
I am working on some of the paneling that is located inside of the cabinets. Part of the job is cutting clearance holes for the various thru hull fittings. This panel is under the sink. More holes than one would normally see in that location in a trailer. That is because in addition to the water and waste water tank I also have a small fuel tank because I have a stove/heater that is fueled by diesel. The stove/hear alsot has a direct exhaust vent tube that exits through the sidewall. I had to special order that fuel tank filler fitting because I needed it to have an angled input as this is a tight space in a tiny sized trailer. I still have an rectangular area to cut out, you can see that black outline around an empty hole. That is where the exhaust tube is located and it needs at least an inch clearance next to the tube from combustible such as wood or things that melt such as the foam insulation.

The fiberglass is not going to crack from the that line of fittings that are close together. I back up the openings I cut into the fiberglass with a layer of very dense marine plywood that is epoxied to the fiberglass inner surface. That gives the screws that hold fittings in place good solid material to grip into as well as strengthening the area. Without a backer plate over time mounting screws put through a thin fiberglass shell can enlarge the holes and the screws loose their grip and then you get leaks. I put marine bedding compound on all the screw threads as an extra measure. The only holes through the shell that don't have that type of backer plate are the ones for the stove exhaust, it has an aluminum backer plate.

I will fit and install all of the wall panels before I start framing cabinets. They will all get coated with mold and water resistant primer and paint. All the edges of the plywood get sealed, the paneling is 1/8 thick. I thought about having a natural birch finish but have decided I want a light colored wall. There will be plenty of natural colored wood trim.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2018, 08:09 PM   #299
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Making some progress this last week, the lower half of the trailer is now painted with Brightside. I also have some of the lower interior wall panels put into place.

Only a few more thru hull fittings to install but I got rained out on that job today. I did not get my 30 amp plug fitting back in. But since I want to go ahead and work on other projects inside these next few days when rain is expected I will instead use an extension cord through my small cable hatch that I had purchased at West Marine. I had purchased a black rubber cork to act as a stopper on the interior so today I drilled a hole through it that worked with the diameter of my cord and then sawed a slit in the side of the cork through to the hole I put into it.

Click image for larger version

Name:	universal plug holder.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	32.3 KB
ID:	120276
Click image for larger version

Name:	cord cork 2.JPG
Views:	21
Size:	44.4 KB
ID:	120274
Click image for larger version

Name:	cord cork1.JPG
Views:	22
Size:	42.2 KB
ID:	120275
Now I can have power and keep out the ants, mice, cold air, etc. I was not worried about water getting in when I have the hatch outside lid open as the lower wall sits at a 12 degree slope and water is not going to run uphill into the tube. I have kept all the thru hull fittings on that lower half of my trailer where water won't naturally run into the trailer but instead wants to drain out( Of course when I put in the cable from the solar that will be up on the roof)

That cable hatch is going to be handy for when I want to run an air compressor hose or other types cables inside on rainy days when I don't want a door or window open.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2018, 12:43 AM   #300
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
Feels great to reach a milestone in the project, I have all the wall panels fitted and I can finish painting them this weekend. I had been thinking of having natural birch panels but my local lumber store did not have enough of them that had similar colors for the surfaces. That is OK I will just paint them with white enamel and that will brighten up the interior space. I have some of the panels that are going to be inside of cabinets painted you can see them in the photo below lying on a ladder for drying. We had some sunny days last week but this week it has been so rainy I had to paint indoors.
Click image for larger version

Name:	<a title=painting lower panels.jpg Views: 31 Size: 68.1 KB ID: 120516" style="margin: 2px" />
Of course before the panels were installed I had to get the walls furred out and insulated. Foam insulation with mylar facing towards the outside and a layer of aluminum foil and foil tape facing the inside. That inside layer is also giving me a very good vapor barrier so that no moisture or dirt gets between the fiberglass and the insulation which means no hidden mold.
Click image for larger version

Name:	wall insulation.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	120517
I had thought I might have natural birch for the walls but as you can see in the photo below there were not enough panels at the supplier with a similar wood tones so tomorrow all those panels get painted. The paneling has been sealed on both sides with a water, mold and mildew resistant clear coating. There is also some weatherstip vinyl foam on the back of the panels along the edges that gets compressed to close up any gaps between the panels and the furring strips. After the paneling gets painted all the gaps and edges get 3M vinyl tape which will finish it off as a second continuous barrier layer.
Click image for larger version

Name:	birch panels unpainted.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	48.9 KB
ID:	120518
I will be continuing to jump back and forth between exterior and interior projects. This is not an optimal work scheme for getting this project finished any time soon. But very few of us major project renovators are working under optimal conditions.

Footnote, if you are wondering about the color of the ceiling, the orange is a piece of fire retardent EVA foam I got for free from a neighbor, the white is EVA foam I purchased as there was not enough of the free piece to do the whole ceiling, it is not the fire retardent version of the EVA. Same thickness, save R value, but just extra chemicals added to the orange version. The tan color is the fiberglass ceiling beams which I have not yet covered with EVA foam. Sometime in the next few weeks it will all get covered over with a marine headliner vinyl.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
campster


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Renovation/Fix-Up... Easier or Harder than you thought? Buck62 General Chat 33 10-09-2020 10:43 AM
Lite House Renovation Bill&Pat General Chat 13 08-25-2012 06:28 PM
1970 Campster Renovation Chris McGurk Modifications, Alterations and Updates 4 06-03-2012 03:24 AM
1973 Compact Junior Renovation Barb Egeland Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 01-10-2006 04:25 PM
Closet Renovation Legacy Posts Modifications, Alterations and Updates 8 06-18-2003 03:14 PM

» Trailer Showcase

scamp

Janet H

Scamp

Gilda
» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.