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02-11-2008, 07:31 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler American (#3104)
Posts: 554
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Some progress finally! Perhaps not really a modification rather a start at the restoration!
I got the idea to try the Marine Epoxy instead of the fiberglass from FGRV here and it worked rather well I think.
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02-11-2008, 07:33 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler American (#3104)
Posts: 554
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Before and after. One coat of primer on the bottom so far.
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02-17-2008, 02:19 AM
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#63
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Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler 13 ft
Posts: 69
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Hi Bonnie. Sorry for the slow reply. I used a 20"x72"x3/4" pine project board from Home Depot, cut and ripped to size. then fastened from below.
Thanxs! Cory
Hey Charlene. Thank you, thank you! Sorry 'bout the slow reply.Yup, one thing lacking in a Boler...Storage/Shelf space. Decided not to re-install the stove for that reason. Will use a portable propane stove. Gives me the flexibility to cook indoors or out without the weight of two stoves.
Thanx! Cory
Hi Karalyn.
Thanx! Cory
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02-17-2008, 06:50 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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...my OH MY!!!!
That is absolutely stunning!!!
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02-17-2008, 11:20 PM
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#65
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Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler 13 ft
Posts: 69
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Hey-hey there Doug.
Thanx!
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02-21-2008, 03:11 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Trailer: Burro 17 ft Widebody
Posts: 868
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If my memory serves me right I received some criticism from a fellow fiberglasser some time back. He didn't like my "frontal area" and my "profile" apparently wasn't much better.
On reflection I chose to interpret this as referring to my trailer, not my body, so that was something I would be able to tweak a bit.
Therefore the I replaced the old vent and cover with a MaxxFan (model 5500). Several advantages, one of which is a more streamlined contour. Considering the slim margin between the tow limit on the Ody and the actual towed weight it might help a smidgen, particularly at over 60mph. The old cover was a bit of unnecessary drag. Boat anchor, actually.
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02-21-2008, 10:14 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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I'm in the process of installing the new front and rear plexi windows with the gasket and lockstrip right now. So far I've removed the old rear window and the gasket was so brittle it broke instead of peeled away. Cleaned up the shell around the window which was a mess under the old gasket. Stretched and reglued the "hide" on the interior around the window, painted it all the way out to the opening and installed the new gasket. Now I'm ready for the fun part, installing the window in the new gasket and then the lockstrip. I'll take photos from here and keep you posted.
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02-22-2008, 09:56 AM
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#68
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Member
Trailer: 1976 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 60
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Quote:
I'm in the process of installing the new front and rear plexi windows with the gasket and lockstrip right now. So far I've removed the old rear window and the gasket was so brittle it broke instead of peeled away. Cleaned up the shell around the window which was a mess under the old gasket. Stretched and reglued the "hide" on the interior around the window, painted it all the way out to the opening and installed the new gasket. Now I'm ready for the fun part, installing the window in the new gasket and then the lockstrip. I'll take photos from here and keep you posted.
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I'd love to know how difficult this turns out to be. I've read horror stories. I'd like to replace both my front and rear windows with sliders. By the way, this is my first post. I just dragged home a 76 13' Scamp yesterday. Its pretty cherry but I'm not one to leave things "as is". I'm looking to re-upholster, tile, re-taping the insulating liner, repaint exterior, flip the axle, Make new cabinet doors and run LED though-out. Anyway....good luck with the windows!
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02-22-2008, 03:48 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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Thanks Jonathan and welcome. Congrats on your new to you Scamp.
Done a complete gut and redo on ours over the last year and now I'm focusing on outside issues.
Did most of the mods you are looking at, so happy to help if you have any questions over the course of your project.
Will post the window progress as I move forward.
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02-22-2008, 07:50 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1996 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 471
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Quote:
I'd love to know how difficult this turns out to be. I've read horror stories. I'd like to replace both my front and rear windows with sliders. By the way, this is my first post. I just dragged home a 76 13' Scamp yesterday. Its pretty cherry but I'm not one to leave things "as is". I'm looking to re-upholster, tile, re-taping the insulating liner, repaint exterior, flip the axle, Make new cabinet doors and run LED though-out. Anyway....good luck with the windows!
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I took the front window out of a 79 Scamp that I had last summer and like you I was dreading putting it back.
I used the old gasket and lock strip and it was not difficult at all, just messy. I used copius amounts of Armour all to lube the lock strip and it went right in with the aid of a screw driver.
I was surprised as I heard the same horror storys.
Hope this helps,
John
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02-22-2008, 09:58 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
I took the front window out of a 79 Scamp that I had last summer and like you I was dreading putting it back.
I used the old gasket and lock strip and it was not difficult at all, just messy. I used copius amounts of Armour all to lube the lock strip and it went right in with the aid of a screw driver.
I was surprised as I heard the same horror storys.
Hope this helps,
John
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Thanks John. It helps for encouraging me to go out there this weekend and give it a try.
I did buy a lockstrip tool so hopefully that will make it easier. I hear the tough part is getting the plexi into the gasket. I did one a long time ago on a kit car and I don't remember it being too bad though.
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02-24-2008, 05:07 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
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I replaced the converter and cleaned up the wiring in the area near the converter. See http://scamp.n0kfb.org/ for details.
-- Dan Meyer
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02-29-2008, 09:23 PM
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#73
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Some time ago I made an Emergency Flasher Box. Mine has 3 switches: - Flashes the Brake Lights
- Lights the Running Lights
- Lights the Back-up Lights
It also has a capped 12 Volt outlet.
Recently I had difficulty digging it out of a storage cubby. I got to pondering a better place to keep it, while standing back and staring at the trailer... and thought, "I wish it were always handy and didn't need to be searched for." I looked at the length of the pigtail that normally plugs into the back of the tow vehicle...
I could build it into the propane tank cover. My tank cover sits away from the front of the trailer. Normally, I just coil up the pigtail around the tongue jack. Now I can feed the pigtail under the tanks and plug it into the back of the cover.
I can reach the 3 switches from the top, and the 12 volt outlet is protected.
The guts of the thing takes up very little space in the area between the 2 tanks.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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03-01-2008, 07:40 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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I am not so sure that having switches, no matter how well insulated, and even located near the top of the enclosure, inside an area where a propane leak could be held captive is a wise idea.
1 spark.
Goodbye.
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03-01-2008, 08:15 PM
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#75
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 358
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Quote:
I am not so sure that having switches,....inside an area where a propane leak could be held captive is a wise idea.
1 spark.
Goodbye.
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Well thats one way to detect if you have a gas leak
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03-08-2008, 01:54 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2001 13 ft Scamp / 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Posts: 1,294
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Here's my latest Mod. I built and installed a small shelf in the back streetside corner between the side and rear windows. I attached it to the window frame and also brought a brace up from the bed cabinet to the underside of the shelf to stabilize it to stop any tilt. I attached a small shelf underneath for the DVD/Satellite boxes. Now that my new TV has arrived I'm thinking about making the shelf about 1 1/2 inches deeper. This will allow me more depth side to side so the lower shelf can accommodate both components. Initially I thought I'd just swap them out. Also if I put a small clete on the front edge and velco on the bottoms of the components, I can leave them in place. The TV will reside on the bed when traveling.
__________________
Joy A. & Olive
and "Puff", too
Fulltime
2019 Ram Longhorn
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03-08-2008, 03:07 PM
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#77
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Senior Member
Trailer: Play Pac ('Egg Krate')
Posts: 444
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that's really nice looking. how do you plan to enlarge it?
__________________
Plotting my next adventures...
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03-08-2008, 03:31 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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Quote:
I attached it to the window frame and also brought a brace up from the bed cabinet to the underside of the shelf to stabilize it to stop any tilt.
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Looks good, can you post a picture of the attachments to the window frame and the brace? The curtains are in the way....
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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03-08-2008, 03:34 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2001 13 ft Scamp / 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Posts: 1,294
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I was just thinking about bringing it out of the wall a little further which makes the shelf deeper and also allows me to make the shelf underneath wider. The components will sit side by side.
With the current shelf I'm limited on width underneath because of the curature in the corner. As you gain depth on top you also gain depth near the windows.
I think I'll play with the existing setup for awhile and then decide if I really want to enlarge it or not.
__________________
Joy A. & Olive
and "Puff", too
Fulltime
2019 Ram Longhorn
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03-08-2008, 03:58 PM
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#80
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2001 13 ft Scamp / 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Posts: 1,294
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Now that the TV has it's new space in the trailer I'll show you my other Mod.
I used to have a folding table over the couch under which the TV was stored or on top when in use.
I replaced the folding table by building a permanent table which fills in the entire corner. You will notice a cut out area on the right. That's because my solar panel is stored against the front wall of the trailer between it and the couch cushion, hidden by pillows. I worried that without the cutout I wouldn't be able to get the solar panel in place. As it turns out I didn't need the cut out, oh well.
I now have a stable place to use the Microwave and a place underneath to store it. Here's a couple of pictures.
__________________
Joy A. & Olive
and "Puff", too
Fulltime
2019 Ram Longhorn
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