My 1991 Scamp renovation

[KevinScamps]

Thing I learned was that I should have tabbed in new supports. I had not done any fiberglass work when I started so I was not sure how easy it would be to ab in supports. Therefore I simply used the supports that were there. However I wanted to cheat the chairs up 3 inches or so that I could see out the window and maximize storage space. I should have simply glued some supports to the walls and then glassed over them, but instead I built the entire thing and attached everything to the existing supports. If you look in the pictures you will see a LOT of extra support cross pieces due to this decision.

My dimensions won't work since every camper is different. The gap between the two chairs is 19" on one end closest to the window and 20.25" on inside edge. Why? Because Scamp hates me and tries to make my life difficult.... I built everything according to the frame that was there, so that's what I have to live with.

The thing I am still learning is how to attach the table. Currently I am using two door hinges with home made removable pins for the top and then just some supports for the support member. This is OK until you come along and bump the table upwards. I tried putting a taper on the support member and a cap on the table side support piece, but it still does not work too will. I may switch to using two more hinges with pins, which will be much safer, but less easy to set up.

[KevinScamps]

I hated the stupid plug that Scamp installs because it allows dirt and water to enter the camper and basically makes that entire storage space under the bed useless. My choice was either to epoxy it over and possibly lower the resale value, or buy something shiny to put into the space. So I bought a stainless steel 30 A plug and wired it in. Of course the hole was a little too large, so I ended up fiberglassing over the hole anyways, just so I could cut it back out.

[KevinScamps]

So the biggest problem with my Scamp was that I could not stand up straight in it..... problem solved. I bought 26"x26" emergency exit from Heng Industries. It took me a day to install. The biggest problems I ran into was that one of the wood reinforcing struts would not come out because the PO (previous owner) had manked it up with a bunch of resin. The result was that I ended up cutting some of the carpet with jigsaw in a place I did not want to. I also had the problem that originally I thought I was going to bring the carpet right up to the edge of the aluminum vent body, however it turned out looking better if I wrapped the carpet all the way around and up the hole. The result was a few extra carpet seems, but it still looks great.

I'd just like to point out that the vent took 44 stainless steel 3/4" bolts to hold on. Aren't they pretty! Somehow I don't think it is going anywhere! My biggest concern is that cutting out half the roof would it would weaken it, but if anything it actually stiffened it.

[KevinScamps]

I could not find the towel rack that I wanted to buy, so I bought an over the cabinet door one from Bed Bath and Beyond and modified it slightly.

[KevinScamps]

So I know most Scamp owners have not had problems with the belly band leaking, unfortunately I am an exception. Early on I was dismayed to find a leak from a small hole in the side of the camper. The problem is that there is a void between the belly band and the fiberglass that attaches the two halves of the camper. Therefore the leak on the outside could have been anywhere and the water just flowed until it reached this small hole into the camper proper.

I therefore drilled out all the rivets, removed the band, scrubbed off all the silicon, cleaned and polished up the aluminum, then sealed the gap between the two camper halves, inserted miles of butyl putty, and bolted everything together with stainless steel bolts. It looks great, I sure hope I didn't create any new leaks with all the bolt holes...

[KevinScamps]

I finally took my camper out of the garage. One small step for mankind, one gigantic leap for the Scamper Camper! Required deflating the tires almost completely and then rolling it out carefully by hand. I'll need to figure out a covering technique to protect it from the elements.

Note, the solar panel on the back is not screwed on properly yet, which is why it is so slanted. Also notice how dirty that door is!! I have started the cleaning process, but its going to take a while.

[Donna D.]

I'm always thrilled when I see members make modifications (that look great!) that truly work for them. If cutting a hole in the roof, so you can stand up straight is what you needed to do... then good for you, for making your trailer "work."

[jen b]

I love your woodwork! The under-bed drawer is especially clever, as is the front dinette table.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by KevinScamps

I hated the stupid plug that Scamp installs because it allows dirt and water to enter the camper and basically makes that entire storage space under the bed useless.

There again, good for you I've never had a problem with dirt and water however. I only pulled out enough cord to reach the electrical pillar, the cord never lays in the dirt/mud. I typically tie a "disposable" plastic bag onto the cord, so no one (including me!) runs into it. And, when it's coiled back inside the trailer, it rides on top of the converter which is next to the hot water heater. No storage there anyway. YMMV

[KevinScamps]

I finished up the weekend by sanding down all the wood with 400 grit sand paper and oiling it again. I also bolted down the solar panel completely. It still tips slightly to the back... It means I should have used longer bolts for the back because I underestimated the slope of the roof. Someday I will fix it, but not tonight. It would have been a super easy to fix if I had not already put the carpet back in place...

[KevinScamps]

Since I took the converter out, I actually have quite a lot of space under there now. (know anybody who needs one? how about an old furnace (needs a new fan)) My camper is a boondocking machine exclusively. Besides, those crappy 60 Hz converters weigh a ton, and tend to injure your battery by over charging it. If I ever wanted to camp with a plug I would just buy a modern switch mode converter/battery maintainer which should weigh much less and take better care of my battery.

Originally Posted by Donna D.

There again, good for you I've never had a problem with dirt and water however. I only pulled out enough cord to reach the electrical pillar, the cord never lays in the dirt/mud. I typically tie a "disposable" plastic bag onto the cord, so no one (including me!) runs into it. And, when it's coiled back inside the trailer, it rides on top of the converter which is next to the hot water heater. No storage there anyway. YMMV

[idiotsniff]

I know someone that needs a furnace! I'm looking for donations

haha

[KevinScamps]

So when I bought the scamp, the owner had removed both the inside and outside door handle and door stop. In its place he had put a pad lock on the outside and another door thingy on the inside. This was due I think to when the door was reinforced and fixed, it ended being in not exactly the same place. So instead of simply moving the door stop, he hacked my poor baby to death and created more work for me.

So what I did was buy new hardware, then grind down the fiberglass somewhat where the door stop was, and then drill extra holes in the door stop so I could bolt it on. Then unfortunately, I had not foreseen myself getting to this task anytime soon I had actually epoxied up the hole that the door lock goes into. So I drilled it out, screwed it up, re-epoxied it, then drilled it out again and everything works well!

I still need to gel coat around the door stop, and then put on the white edging all around it to clean it up. Notice all the extra random holes in the door that I had to fill including 7 just for the padlock!

[KevinScamps]

I finished my shelves!! The fiberglass around them was in atrocious condition from being drilled, riveted, unriveted badly, and then reriveted. I think the owner must have ripped off the closet door at some point or something. My plan had been to gel coat the fiberglass to perfection. This I decided was a waste of time, so I simply covered it in birch plywood, which turned out stunning (I think). Notice that my catalytic heater (with black cover) is installed along with an attractive and not necessary stainless steel heat shield.

[KevinScamps]

I had a little extra wood so I put a protective shield around the gas shut off valve.

[KevinScamps]

Another successful shopping expedition for the scamp. This was long scavenger hunt. All I wanted was a 3 ft. long rubber hose to go from the propane tank back to the 3/8" flare fitting and a new regulator. Inter web had 2ft lengths or much longer lengths. I finally talked to my local RV place and the recommended a store to make a custom hose and then I bought a new regulator from the RV place. I swear it never ends!

I also finally bought a rubber mallet. I always wanted a rubber mallet, I can't wait until I need to hit something with it.

[jen b]

Nice work on the closet! We're doing something similar with the Burro, making cabinet door frames to cover the face of the storage openings - which I believe might have been cut by somebody who was drunk or who possibly had some unresoved anger issues.

[KevinScamps]

My cushions came in from the shop. So happy! Also redid the table attachments by buying two more door hinges. I took the pin out of the top one, but not the bottom. Therefore when the table is in bed mode, the support is still attached, but swings down and sits on the floor below the bed (does not stick out). Rock solid system. I can lean on the table, rock it, bump into, and its not going anywhere.

The big cushion behind the left seat is the one that goes on the table in bed mode. It is a little unwieldy, but it makes an OK back for the left chair. I still haven't decided what to do on the right.

I almost forgot I also got curtains. I bought 2 curtain panes with blackout shades from Bed Bath and Beyond for $20 bucks each and then subdivided them into a complete set of curtains. Cheaper than buying the material itself and half the sewing is already done for you because they hemmed it for curtain roads at both ends. It took a pro (not me) two hours to do the curtains.

[KevinScamps]

It took me 2 hours (really, no exaggeration) of scrubbing, but my door is no longer black and untouchable. First I used GOOP which is nontoxic and nonsmelly. After that didn't completely clean it, I used half a bottle of that green cleaner whose name has slipped my brain, and then used the hose for a lot of rinsing. The door looks new besides the damage to the carpet around the door latch (not my fault). I won't mention that is actually breaking off and will have to someday accept that fact and post pictures of how to rebuild a broken door.

[KevinScamps]

I put in a vent so I can open the sliding window in the rain. Seems to work very well (we just a had a major snow storm with some pretty serious wind, and I didn't get any snow inside.

I have to admit that they are stupidly expensive, but of good quality. I will order one for the othe rside, so I can get a through draft. Next time I will save the stainless screws that come with it, and buy new, shorter, self tapping ones.