My 77 B15 Beachcomber - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-08-2011, 01:20 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Squidley View Post
Hi again: First three pics show some floor drains that I have installed just in case water enters the trailer.
Several pics show the B15 with windows removed. Several show the roof supports. I have installed 7 cross members. Hopefully they will support some weight when I need to work on the roof.
Rick, did your roof arch or bow above your roof supports and if so, how did you solve. If it isn't tight to the framing, what will stop it from vibating in the wind while traveling??
Sorry for being brief, but this is the third time I've typed this post.

Sid

If you want that roof to be strong, glass those horizontal stringers to the ceiling. It is not all that hard if you lightly grind the area to be bonded, and put pressure on the glass on the cross member. Wax paper will keep the boards you use to apply pressure from bonding. Then dress it up with a grinder and it will be amazingly strong. I use 3/4" PVC pipe cut in half for stiffeners, or foam channel, glassed over. Both are light.

Another method is to glue on balsa core material. 3/8" or 1/2" and then glass over that with a layer or two of glass. It is harder to work on a ceiling but it can be done. A vacuum bag sucks out the excess resin. You can also flip it over which is feasible if you have a good bed to put it on and a few friends to help flip it.

High density foam works too and adds insulation value. It costs a bit more than balsa core.
Foam would be my choice.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:24 PM   #22
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What do you plan to use for paint?

I like Interlux Perfection--although I think they changed the name again. It is a to part epoxy and is hard as nails-very difficult to scratch. For primer, I use Interlux 2000U, two coats, sanded after the second coat. I thin the heck out of the paint 40% thinner using three coats with the tip and roll method and it looks sprayed when done.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:23 PM   #23
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There's a time limit from the time you open a reply window to the time you hit submit. I don't remember what it is, but time flies! I'd suggest if you think you're going to have a long post, to type it in Notepad, then copy and paste into the reply window.

Works for me and sometimes I drone on and on and on
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:35 PM   #24
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Thanks Donna: Now I just have to figure out how to move my note pad messages to this forum. I'll work it out. It may just take me awhile. Just another small challenge.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:43 PM   #25
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Copy (from Notepad) and paste (into reply window)... it's easy Sidney, honest. To put the pictures intermingled in the text... after you get them uploaded click on the Paperclip. See this for more info: Posting Picture help by Donna D.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:48 PM   #26
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Thanks again Rick for the pics re your ceiling. I may just have to re think this whole thing.

Nightsailor: I believe your suggestion is similar to Rick's except that you are talking Glass and he is talking glue(PL Premium). Yes I had even considered Glassing small 1/2 tubes to the top of the roof, similar to that of Fibre Stream trailers. I just couldn't imagine myself doing that much Glassing being the novice that I am.
Re: paint, I am considering using Brightside Interlux marine enamel as others in the forum have used. Is this what you are refering to??
All suggestions are appreciated even though all may not be used.

Thanks everyone
Sid
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:23 PM   #27
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I previously said I needed to rethink my ceiling supports. Well, I've re thought and changed my approach. I removed the metal and wood stringers and replaced with cedar that I cut to fit the arch in the roof. They all had to be custom fit, because the amount of arch varies. I thought these were flat roofed trailers, but I guess they aren't, unless the fibreglass has stretched.LOL. The cross pieces between the stringers should be relatively easy. Anyway I feel better about them and guess what, cedar doesn't rot easy. I used PL Premium to glue them up as well as rested them on the strips along the top of the wall and also attached them with small angle brackets at the ends. This better all work, because they won't be easy to remove now. I put alot of pressure on the first one and they are really quite strong, not to mention lighter.
I am attaching pics, I hope

Sid
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:19 AM   #28
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Talking That looks good Sid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidley View Post
I previously said I needed to rethink my ceiling supports. Well, I've re thought and changed my approach. I removed the metal and wood stringers and replaced with cedar that I cut to fit the arch in the roof. They all had to be custom fit, because the amount of arch varies. I thought these were flat roofed trailers, but I guess they aren't, unless the fibreglass has stretched.LOL. The cross pieces between the stringers should be relatively easy. Anyway I feel better about them and guess what, cedar doesn't rot easy. I used PL Premium to glue them up as well as rested them on the strips along the top of the wall and also attached them with small angle brackets at the ends. This better all work, because they won't be easy to remove now. I put alot of pressure on the first one and they are really quite strong, not to mention lighter.
I am attaching pics, I hope

Sid

I think you nailed it Sid and the cedar idea wish I'd thought of it too, also that's some fancy wood cutting.

Rick.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:05 AM   #29
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You are really making me envious of your progress! I wish I had time to be tearing into my trailer build. You had asked about the condition of my interior. When I bought it, the trailer had been stored inside and not used for 3 years.I bought it right before winter, and moved it to my storage yard.over the winter the back window leaked a bit and made a mess of the two lower wall panels and the floor at the back.I have gotten as far as removing the front bed/bench,and tearing out the rear table/bed, and the rear of the floor.My plan is for a permanent bed at the back,with storage under. and a small couch/larger kitchen at the front. At this point though, I started a new job in april that has me working 6 days a week! as the new guy,I have to work all the overtime that the senior guys don't want. I have started asking around to see if I could find anyone willing to make the repairs I need so I could use the trailer if I got a weekend off,but have not found anyone yet.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:07 PM   #30
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Hi everyone: I'm finally getting around to some updates. I now have my cedar roof support all in and it is pretty solid. I can hang my weight (175 lbs) from the roof vent opening and it supports me well. I have attached a few pics.
I also made a few major decisions, whether right or wrong, I am now committed. I Purchased a new 12 volt DC fridge (with a Danfoss compressor) from Getaway RV in Abbottsford. They were on sale for Half price. I plan to put it between the door and the window on the curbside. It will be raised up so that we will not have to get on our knees to see whats in the fridege. The weight (about 55 lbs.) will be almost directly over the axle. Just a little ahead. This means as some pics show, that I can close in the huge vent holes on the drivers side.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC01747.jpg   DSC01748.jpg  

DSC01745.jpg   DSC01749.jpg  

DSC01744.jpg   DSC01753.jpg  

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Old 08-22-2011, 09:14 PM   #31
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Looking good Sid

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Originally Posted by Squidley View Post
Hi everyone: I'm finally getting around to some updates. I now have my cedar roof support all in and it is pretty solid. I can hang my weight (175 lbs) from the roof vent opening and it supports me well. I have attached a few pics.
I also made a few major decisions, whether right or wrong, I am now committed. I Purchased a new 12 volt DC fridge (with a Danfoss compressor) from Getaway RV in Abbottsford. They were on sale for Half price. I plan to put it between the door and the window on the curbside. It will be raised up so that we will not have to get on our knees to see whats in the fridege. The weight (about 55 lbs.) will be almost directly over the axle. Just a little ahead. This means as some pics show, that I can close in the huge vent holes on the drivers side.
Can you believe the amount of work it takes
Looks like you're doing a great job too, wait until it's complete you'll have a far superior trailer to anything you can buy today for $20,000 and yours will be custom made, stronger and last way longer for a fraction of the price.


Rick.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:19 PM   #32
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Hi again: I included a couple pics of my TV. You can see why I need to keep the weight down. It's rated to pull up to 2,000 lbs. Rick I almost look at your Bronco with envy.
To follow up my previous post, I plan to move the water tank to just behind the drivers side wheel well. Therefore I have another hole to Fibre Glass in (the water filler spout on the curb side.) This old square egg B15 is getting a lot of patching done. Obviously I will need to sand and paint the whole trailer after all the body work is done. I have read over many of the posts on painting and am looking forward to getting that done so that I can re install all the windows etc. and get it all sealed up before winter.

I'll try to keep my posts more up to date.

Sid
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:48 PM   #33
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Aug. 28/11
Hi All FG Enthusiasts:
I've been putting in a lot of time on my B15. Sure glad I don't need to do this for a living. To date, I have the framing almost completed. All but the very corners on the upper half. Enough at least so that I can concentrate on painting the outside. Fall with poor weather is approaching rapidley and I need to get everything sealed up to keep the water out. I am attaching a few pics. Will post more shortly.
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:57 PM   #34
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Oops, I'll try those pics again.

Sorry, now I'mtold there is an internet problem.
I'll shut down and try again. The pics don't want to upload.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:06 PM   #35
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Attempt # 3
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DSC01773.jpg   DSC01775.jpg  

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Old 09-28-2011, 09:32 PM   #36
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It was a big job sanding down what I believe was Tremclad RV white. That paint is amazingly hard when you don't want it to be.It was still very shiney, but there were some runs and a lot of pinholes in numerous areas. With all the FG patching/repairs, it needed a whole new paint job. The weather here has been extremely hot (mid thirties) and very low humidity. I tried painting outdoors, but the interlux pre-cote was touch dry in about 20-30 minutes and therefor had a lot of brush marks. I found a large shop to work in for a few days and applied a second pre -kote. Even inside the temp was about 25 degrees C. so it still dried quickly.
I had used about 5-6% y333 brushing liquid as suggested by interlux. The brush marks of course were still evident. My 3rd coat was a 50/50 mix of pre-kote and Brightside.. Then I hoped to finish up with 2 more coats of Brightside. On thr roof I didn't tip with the brush and it seemed to turn out a lot better. I finished 2 more coats of Brightside on the roof. Rather than tipping I rolled about 2-3 sq. ft. and after about 2 minutes went back anf very lightly rolled again and the bubbles seemed to disappear. I also had upped the 333 brushing liquid to about 10%. The roof looked good enough to try this method on the walls. The first coat of Brightside was applied to the sides, but the brush marks were still very obvious. You can't see them on the pics, but they are there. Pics attached.

Sid
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:33 PM   #37
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Talking Excellent pictures Sidney and great progress.

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Attempt # 3
I see you used my idea of using the gang nail strips, they work pretty good eh?

What's next on your to do list?
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:03 PM   #38
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These posts are a bit disjointed as I'm trying to catch up re: a couple of hiccups in our time schedule over the last few weeks.
Regarding the unsatisfactory paint job, I called my car painter brother and explained my dilemma. He said "why did you wait so long to call me? Bring the trailer over and we'll see what we can do." On Sept. 18th we took the B15 to Oliver BC. (2 hours away). After 6-7 hours of work with an air driven oscillating sander, the brush marks were gone. My brother then re undercoated and repainted the trailer.
We had to purchase another quart of paint and some Y216 thinner/reducer for spray painting. Because I had already thinned with the 333, the paint was now very slow drying. Repainting took several hours extra time and Harry said he wouldn't use that kind of paint again.
The moral of the story is - If you want a good paint job using interlux Brightside, make sure the conditions are just right. Altogether with reducers, paint and pre-kote, I spent over $400.00 to get a decent paint job. If there were a next time, I would let my brother choose the paint. Probably automotive. The rolling and tipping method is not for me.
I am currently installing the windows, lights etc. I have attached a few pics with the new paint job and with the windows installed.

Sid
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:09 PM   #39
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Hi All: Does anyone know where I could purchase the plastic strips for the belly band on the B15 Beachcomber?? The strips that I removed are not in the best shape. I find that there is lots of 3/4 in. available, but the correct width is 5/8 in. Two strips around the trailer equals about 72+ ft. This plastic strip covers the screw heads that hold the belly band on.
Thanks

Sid
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:39 AM   #40
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Talking Campkins in Ontario has them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidley View Post
Hi All: Does anyone know where I could purchase the plastic strips for the belly band on the B15 Beachcomber?? The strips that I removed are not in the best shape. I find that there is lots of 3/4 in. available, but the correct width is 5/8 in. Two strips around the trailer equals about 72+ ft. This plastic strip covers the screw heads that hold the belly band on.
Thanks

Sid
RV Dealer in Whitby Ontario - Campkin's RV Centre.

Ask for parts manager, I believe the have it in white or black.
In box me when you're installing it, there's a trick to it.

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