My Fantastic fan upgrade - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-12-2018, 08:10 AM   #1
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Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
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My Fantastic fan upgrade

Just doing some small cosmetic/convenience upgrades on my new to me 13' Can you spot the differences? Main thing was the pwm fan speed controller upgrade, (notice the extra knob on the rear left hand corner of the fan) once i got to that I decides to paint the trim while I was at it. I think it matches much better in white than just raw wood like scamp does them.
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:13 AM   #2
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That looks good
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:18 AM   #3
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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looks great

I have a fantastic fan it doesn't work don't know why? but I like what you have done!

on another note I got a 12v truck fan run it a couple of hours we are searching for covers and turning the fan off.

bob
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:32 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
I have a fantastic fan it doesn't work don't know why? but I like what you have done!

on another note I got a 12v truck fan run it a couple of hours we are searching for covers and turning the fan off.

bob
Bob, the mechanics of the fantastic fan are pretty simple, you should be able to narrow down your problem. My bet is the thermo-fuse on the 1-2-3 selector knob. You can test this by taking the fan cover down and just shorting across the thermofuse with a piece of wire.

The thermofuse looks like this:

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Old 04-12-2018, 09:31 AM   #5
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Name: Bonnie
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Fantastic Fans have a lifetime guarantee. They sent me all the parts to repair a fan on an RV that was already 10 years old when I bought it.
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Old 04-12-2018, 09:55 AM   #6
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Fantastic Fans have a lifetime guarantee. They sent me all the parts to repair a fan on an RV that was already 10 years old when I bought it.
Wow that is good to know, the workings of the fan are so simple that short of the motor going out anything else should be a pretty easy fix.

With the pwm controller you can dial in any speed you want form almost nothing to full blast. I did the mod because I will be doing some boondocking and wanted to be able to use the fan while conserving as much power as possible. Also, its nice to have just a really gentle quiet breeze while sleeping at night. Most important thing about the pwm controller is the operating requency must be at 21khz + or the fan will make a very annoying whine at low rpm.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:24 AM   #7
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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our fan

well it may be a favor to us. I think p/o wired it through the converter not on the battery I have 12v there even with going through the battery I don't know if I am hot to the fan or not!

call me lazy got the 5.00 fan and it is all I need or want. someday I well get the energy I will check it out. p/o said it works I believe him!!

I am 76 you know everything now is a big deal. I was barely able to get a radio installed in our scamper!


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Old 04-12-2018, 10:31 AM   #8
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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I did that mod last year. My first controller did not want to work when the interior of the camper was somewhere in the high 90's to 100 F. The second one has been working OK although it does generate quite a bit of RFI (radio interference). Its nice to have the very slow speed when you only want a quiet and slight air flow while sleeping.

I might add that one of the tabs on my screen broken when removing it (according to their directions) and they sent me a new one at no charge.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:35 AM   #9
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Name: bob
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later model

I must have a later model because mine has the knob to slow it down on it

bob
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:39 AM   #10
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Fan-Tastic Vent fan ASSISTANCE #:
1-800-521-0298 from 8 AM to 5 PM EST

http://www.fantasticvent.com/faq/help/html


When we bought Peanut in 2015, the old Fantastic Vent fan didn't work...we called them (got the # online) hoping to buy parts, and they sent the part they and Paul thought would fix it--free. When it came, we called and a tech talked Paul through installing it, but that wasn't the problem, so the tech suggested another part, which they ALSO mailed free. When it came, we called again, and the tech stayed on the phone helping Paul get it installed and told him how to work the dials until it was working well.

(It had been shorted out by someone switching it from forward to reverse without letting it stop first.) The calls were all free to us, and they mailed us two parts for free, and the tech stayed on the line until Paul had it fixed.

And we hadn't even bought the fan in the first place!

They knocked our socks off--customer service that made us feel like a million bucks--or with inflation and all, should I say a billion bucks?

BEST
Kai
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Old 04-13-2018, 04:37 AM   #11
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Hi Raz, the last time I used an O scope was around '73/4 in the service, a Simpson I think. Haven't touched one since, could still turn it on now but what do all these dials do again....dang I feel old.
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Old 04-13-2018, 05:48 AM   #12
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I modified my fan last winter. For my speed control I used a 555 timer to build a variable duty cycle oscillator. That let me chose the frequency and set the max and min duty cycle. I chose a frequency that would not bother the radio or the dog (as I recall around 50 kHz ). I found that a low of 35% duty cycle was a minimum to still move air. On the upper end about 95% gave full speed. This provides useful control over the entire rotation of the speed control pot. Having the same concern as Dave in regard to boondocking. I calibrated the control pot to current drain from a low of less that 100mA to almost 3 amps.

I built everything on a universal PC board. The control transistor is mounted on an aluminum heat sink cooled by the fan itself. It worked well all last summer. Raz
..
And I spent 2 minutes on eBay, spent $2.99 and waited 43 days for the package from China

PS, Cathode ray O-scopes are antiques! You now get get a oscilloscope on your tablet or smart phone.
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:45 PM   #13
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Name: Tim
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Did you have to put a spacer on the outside of the trailer to make it flush on the inside? Mine only having the ensolite for insulation stuck down till I built a frame for the outside for the fan to sit on.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:05 PM   #14
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Did you have to put a spacer on the outside of the trailer to make it flush on the inside? Mine only having the ensolite for insulation stuck down till I built a frame for the outside for the fan to sit on.
No, it came that flush direct from scamp.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:31 AM   #15
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Must have a bit thicker wall of insulation than the old boler's.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:38 AM   #16
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Must have a bit thicker wall of insulation than the old boler's.
I believe that there are 2 layers of reflectix and the rat fur. Also, since i have an a/c, i'm not sure if the whole roof in this area isn't reinforced with an extra glassed in piece of plywood.
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:15 AM   #17
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My Fantastic fan upgrade

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Originally Posted by Gompka View Post
I believe that there are 2 layers of reflectix and the rat fur. Also, since i have an a/c, i'm not sure if the whole roof in this area isn't reinforced with an extra glassed in piece of plywood.
Scamp only installs one layer of Ray Foil. Like Reflectix, it consists of two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between the foil skin. That's where the "double" comes from in the product description. That confused me for a long time, too.

All new builds now have an extra layer of glass cloth in the A/C install area. No plywood, never was. Until recently you only got it if you ordered A/C or the A/C prep option.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:22 AM   #18
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Name: David
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Scamp only installs one layer of Ray Foil. Like Reflectix, it consists of two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between the foil skin. That's where the "double" comes from in the product description. That confused me for a long time, too.

All new builds now have an extra layer of glass cloth in the A/C install area. No plywood, never was. Until recently you only got it if you ordered A/C or the A/C prep option.
Good to know Jon, thanks for clearing that up. Its interesting that the shell is able to hold the extra weight of the a/c with just a bit more glass. Goes to show you how strong the structure is.
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Gompka View Post
Good to know Jon, thanks for clearing that up. Its interesting that the shell is able to hold the extra weight of the a/c with just a bit more glass. Goes to show you how strong the structure is.
I think it is more than that. I think the side structures add to the roof strength. The metal cabinets supports surly do. On mine there is a closet/fridge compartment on the starboard side and a bathroom on the port side. I think that both help to support the roof. The bathroom walls are apparently just a little short in height so that there is a slight dip in the roof on that side (the walls riveted to the roof pull the roof down a hair). So I would not say that the roof is all that strong. What I wonder is if the bathroom was removed, would the roof pop back up, or would the weight of the A/C while traveling cause a roof fault. Hmmm
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