My new Perris Pacer

[Darren S W]

Hi all;Well it took several months to get it but here it is my very own 13 foot Perris Pacer Built on Sept of 1979.The gentleman who gave it to me was using it to store some race stuff and wouldn't let me take it until he sold everything. The price was right so i didn't mind. As you can see it cleaned up nicely, It has been setting since 1987. All the windows and screens are in good shape but all the molding and seals are rotten, I think the wiring will need to be replaced. It still has good play in the suspension, I could see nothing wrong with the frame, The interior is shot but intact everything is there to use as templates, The only thing that wont need to be replaced is the table. On the outside there is a small damaged spot where the hitch goes under the trailer,The door is not lining up correctly and there is a gap at the bottom and a concave area just under the door window. I think this is from the bottom pulling out? The door is full of water up to the handle But it still works and has the key. On the door opening there is a small hole with a very small crack. There is also small cracks like a spiders web on the top of the front and rear window openings.Any advice would be appreciated. Where to start? Total off frame restoration? Start with door and windows? I will be working on this out side unless I can pull the tires and lower it down by 8 or 10 inches then it will fit in my garage (Built in 1900) I think it was meant for a horse carriage its only 6'6 or so.please excuse the grammar and spelling

[Raya]

Congrats! She sure cleaned up nicely

For starters we've had a couple of pretty extensive door fixing threads in the past couple of week. You might want to just browse back through the sub-forums that cover fixes and etc. to see what catches your eye for titles.

One thread is Brandy's door specific thread; and I think the other one was a general Boler issues thread that had door stuff in it.

If the gelcoat and the frame/axle are in decent shape, I think I would keep it "frame on" for now, and instead concentrate on getting it watertight. Even if you do take the shell off the frame later, you won't wreck what you've fixed.

So I would remove the windows and replace them or get new seals or whatever it took to make them operable and watertight. Likewise any vents or etc. I think there's nothing that is harder on a trailer than water from the "inside" (i.e. leaks that get into the interior from windows, vents, and etc.). You can tape heavy plastic over the windows with 3M #225 weather-resistant masking tape for a temporary window.

Next I would check the floor thoroughly. That's something you might need to work on, and it underlies everything else (and as I understand it the PP has a full bathtub floor, so it's probably similar to fix on or off the frame ).

Then go from there. The door sounds like it needs a re-core. You can reshape it then as part of the process. Check body for sag. Compound and wax the gelcoat, if it needs it (chalky or dull - looks pretty good though!). Then just nibble away at the rest.

Now, you may find or know of issues that preclude my scenario above; I'm just speaking in general from what you've said.

Looks like a great project

Raya

[Robert Johans]

Hello Darren,

Congrats on your new PP. Looks like we have something in common.

I invite you to check out my ongoing thread "1982 Perris Pacer Renovation" in the Mods, Alterations and Neat Updates section.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=38632


I decided to do a "frame off" resto 'cuz I'm shooting for a better-than-new end result. As you will read, I'm planning on renovating everything. The biggest problem area I discovered so far has been the plywood subfloor. As Raya suggested, these PP's feature a full "bathtub" fiberglass construction, which traps ALL water that leaks into the cabin area. The plywood eventually sucks up the water, and the rotting begins. Because the PP's interior modules were often 'glassed in, the plywood can be really tough to pull out.

Let me know if you have any specific questions regarding my build, and how it may apply to yours.

Cheers.

[Darren S W]

Thanks guysI removed the side windows and door and gutted it. I removed all the spray on finish from the factory, Ice box, Stove, All cabinet doors, Both tanks, Sink and scraped off what floor was left and found out only 3 screws holding the box to the frame all in the rear. 2 under the water tank and one under the stove. That explains the small damage on the front where the frame goes under, it must have been bouncing. Good news the door is fine, Off the hinges it lines up perfect. it must have weighed 75 lbs. all the foam core had retained the water I did not know the styrofoam could get waterlogged! Now it weighs about 5-10 lbs. The dent in the door will come out when i reinstall new foam. (if that's what I should put back in?) When I picked the trailer up I could not lift the hitch off the ground. now, one hand and pull it around.Thanks Robert I will be asking a you questions and advice if you don't mind.

[Vicki A.]

Welcome to the PP family!! Everyone here has been a great help on my reno... Robert digs in first, then I kind of know what I'm getting into.
Good luck with everything you do!

Vicki

[Darren S W]

Part 2. I removed the seating modules as suggested by Robert (Not an EZ job) and am glad I did I found a couple of holes that otherwise would have been overlooked one is right next to the wheel well about 1 inch long and .50 wide I'm sure it let in a lot of water.

With the seating out it should be a snap to put the new sub floor down.
The other holes were from the last owner I think he drilled weep holes to let the water out? 2 on each side in the front

Both of the front mounting holes were elongated and the trailer had shifted so far forward that the frame has poked a hole in the shell, another hole I would have missed if the seating was not removed.

I am thinking about installing 1/2 ridged foam insulation then having it shot with Rhino liner. I have spoken with the people at Rhino and they say the stuff sticks really well to Styrofoam. Has anyone tried this? Can anyone foresee a problem in doing this?
Again thanks for the input.

[Robert Johans]

So, okay, you say you removed the seating... How 'bout the galley and vertical cabinet units?

Do I understand you to mean to create an internal floor "sandwich?" Fiberglass shell, then rigid foam, coat that with sprayed Rhino, then cover with your subfloor, then topped with your finished surface?

About the Rhino Lining: I've read on this Forum stories of mixed success with the bed liner material directly applied to the fiberglass. (There are several options out there. Some create more texture than others, for example.)

About the rigid foam: As a flooring insulation, I'd be worried that foam would collapse or deteriorate over the long haul. And you may not want to add thickness to the floor dimension as it may affect the height of the re-installed FG modules.

[Darren S W]

So, okay, you say you removed the seating... How 'bout the galley and vertical cabinet units?

Do I understand you to mean to create an internal floor "sandwich?" Fiberglass shell, then rigid foam, coat that with sprayed Rhino, then cover with your subfloor, then topped with your finished surface?

About the Rhino Lining: I've read on this Forum stories of mixed success with the bed liner material directly applied to the fiberglass. (There are several options out there. Some create more texture than others, for example.)

About the rigid foam: As a flooring insulation, I'd be worried that foam would collapse or deteriorate over the long haul. And you may not want to add thickness to the floor dimension as it may affect the height of the re-installed FG modules.

No, sorry I meant the insulation applied to the walls then shot with Rhino then painted. When I spoke with the local Rhino dealer they told me that they sprayed some Styrofoam for the railroad people and they did a drag test and Rhino was the best for wear. (compared to what else I don't know). But what ever I do put on the walls, it will have to be something I can paint. I don't have the patience to try the wallpaper route. Besides the grand-kids (2 boys under 10 and a angel who is 4) would just tear it up, I need something durable.

The floor would be 5/8ths plywood over the fiberglass bottom but I will patch the holes, give it a fresh coat of resin with a new piece of glass then clamp the plywood down and fill any seams with resin and glass in the edges.

The Galley and the closet will remain intact. I went through 8 or 10 sawzall blades just on the seats. I can get the floor in without taking them out.

If anyone here has tried the bed liner sprayed onto ridged insulation I would like to hear how it came out. Pictures are always nice thx

[Donna D.]

humm, I can't remember anyone putting it on the inside over insulation, however there is a guy on Bolerama that painted Lizardskin... the same spray insulation used between the hulls of the Olivers. He did the work himself... or he and his buddy's did and it still cost him right at $1,000. Looks good tho.

The local Rhinoliner folks here in the Portland area are always looking at new things to use their product on. Have you considered taking a piece of insulation down to your local guy and have them spray it with whatever they've got in the gun... they'll probably do it for free ... after all you don't care about the color, just durability, etc. Then in whatever-time-it-takes-to-setup, test it. Poke it, scratch it, bend it. Maybe it will take the abuse and you'll get your answers. Then of course, you'll answer back here!

[JasonWesterman]

Hey Cool Trailer

Welcome to the PP fam I also just recently joined the PP fam

and We love ours were actually gonna take it out this weekend to new malones never been there b4 but it should be fun

I had to to change the floor as was as it was all rotted

anyways heres a link to some pic n stuff of my project

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...8&hl=perris