New propane line installation

[Shanos]

I am rebuilding my Boler and am at the stage of installing a new propane line from my tank on the tongue box to a 2 burner cooktop (the only gas appliance). I live in B.C. (lower mainland) and am having trouble finding an RV service place that is booking earlier than mid to late July...also quite expensive! I am considering hiring a gas fitter but want to know what is required for propane in an RV.
I understand that you need a 2 stage regulator (with vents oriented facing down and in a protected place or covered) off of the tank (secured in a tongue box). What I don't know is what type of line is acceptable or used from the regulator to the appliance. I will run it under the trailer and then up into the galley cabinet.
I want to make sure that this is done correctly and safely! Thanks for your help!

[Jim Bennett]

Beyond the two stage regular you need 3/8" copper line run under the body. You can put the line in a rubber tube for protection, very good to have on the exposed first part from the regulator where it is expired to road rash. Then use 3/8" T's to fit branch lines to appliances. These connections need to be made on the exterior as the only connections allowed inside are the ones at each appliance. All connections and fittings are flared. Use straps authentication rubber grommets to afix to the trailer.

I have done this to a few times. It is quite easy and a plumber could do it well in short order.

[Shanos]

Hi Jim, thanks for the information! I thought it was 3/8" copper. Does it have to be specifically for gas? Great idea about protecting it in a rubber hose. I'm curious about why you can't make T connections inside the trailer...possible leak points so safer outside I'm assuming. I only have one appliance so I'll just have it run right to the cook top. Also, is there different types/sizes of 2 stage regulators. Thanks again

[Jim Bennett]

Yes, even though there is not a big chance for leakage done right, the purpose is to minimize the chance of leading inside. Besides, it is quite easy to run in a straight line underneath. There is a proper type of code to use, I forget exactly what it is, but someone here might have the info handy, and a supplier would likely know too.

[Shanos]

Thanks again Jim...I'm sure my gas fitter will know what type of tubing to use

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Then use 3/8" T's to fit branch lines to appliances. These connections need to be made on the exterior as the only connections allowed inside are the ones at each appliance.

My 1977 Scamp Propane line runs from the regulator right into the interior and there's a "T" connection for the stove top and then it goes on to the furnace. I believe this is the way Scamp plumbed them originally.

Where did you find out that this is "not allowed"?
And by whom is it not allowed? Is it illegal to have this plumbed this way?

Do you have a reference we could look at to get the scoop?

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

My 1977 Scamp Propane line runs from the regulator right into the interior and there's a "T" connection for the stove top and then it goes on to the furnace. I believe this is the way Scamp plumbed them originally.

Where did you find out that this is "not allowed"?
And by whom is it not allowed? Is it illegal to have this plumbed this way?

Do you have a reference we could look at to get the scoop?

Canadian code prohibits indoor connections, not USA.

[Jim Bennett]

Reace, the previous owner of Escape, explained it to me. RV standards they are obligated to follow. Much safer for something rambling down the road.

You can cheat this if you wish, but why? I would hate to see insurance react in a bad way should something happen.

[Glenn Baglo]

There are standards and codes.

[Cesar]

i did just what you are talking about to my boler 13 but i am in the US. I used black iron pipe from the regulator up and into the trailer. I have a ball valve right where that comes into the trailer, then a single line to the only gas appliance (stove).

I was a little hesitant but its really quite easy....

[AlanKilian]

Bummer that we can't even read CSA-Z240 without paying some cash.

I hate that.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Cesar

i did just what you are talking about to my boler 13 but i am in the US. I used black iron pipe from the regulator up and into the trailer. I have a ball valve right where that comes into the trailer, then a single line to the only gas appliance (stove).



I was a little hesitant but its really quite easy....

It is against RV codes to have a valve installed inside. Copper in an RV is better than rigid pipe as it conforms to shapes and handles on road vibration better. There is a reason manufacturers use copper.

[Cesar]

Alan, are you in Mass? If so NFPA 1192 is the applicable code. My installation is fully compliant to this code, it really not too bad. Sounds like our maple leaf brothers have stricter codes.

[Yellow Boler]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Beyond the two stage regular you need 3/8" copper line run under the body. You can put the line in a rubber tube for protection, very good to have on the exposed first part from the regulator where it is expired to road rash. Then use 3/8" T's to fit branch lines to appliances. These connections need to be made on the exterior as the only connections allowed inside are the ones at each appliance. All connections and fittings are flared. Use straps authentication rubber grommets to afix to the trailer.

I have done this to a few times. It is quite easy and a plumber could do it well in short order.

What do you use on the threads to seal and connect the pipe fittings? Thread sealant?

[jetalkington]

This depends on the type pipe you decided on. If your using threaded iron pipe there are Teflon tapes you can use. I prefer the Grey one or the yellow. The white is too thin. My personal preference on gas is to use Rectorseal® T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant. I find it seals better and more consistently than the tapes.

If you decided to go with copper it is against NFPA 1192 to use any sealant on the flare fitting. So, in this instance you would use nothing and use two wrenches to tighten the fitting securely. A couple things, if you went copper and flares. You must use stressed relieved nuts on the flares. They are called forged nuts at most stores. NFPA 1192 called for this.

I should have mentioned if you using a combination of the two, then where the threaded adapter screw on to the iron pipe you use sealants. Not on the flare end, only the threaded end.

Finally you have to leak check the line with pressurized air. I shoot about 20 pounds in and check with soapy water or the liquid leak checker available at the big box store. The commercial one does bubble easier and faster. I suggest you do a quick read thru the standard to be sure your compliant. It is a short read on piping and testing. All connections need to be in the open, not in the floor, walls, or ceiling. They can be in a cabinet but you must have ready access to them. Once everything is done, you must test for leaks. Do not skip this step.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Yellow Boler

What do you use on the threads to seal and connect the pipe fittings? Thread sealant?

My is used on flare fittings. Just tighten snug. Only pipe threads is tape or dope sealing.

[Bigboler]

Airstream used flexible rubber propane lines on the Nest trailer, with only one appliance to feed you could go direct from the regulator to the stove, attached photo is from under a Nest trailer