New solar install....

[Perry J]

Norm,
I use a boat fitting designed for where the coax antenna cable penetrates the hull.
Most marine stores carry them and there only about $5.00.
The base is about the size of a .50 peice and has a compression fitting with a rubber gromet the wire goes through to seal out the water.
I use rivets to attach the base to the roof.
If the wire is to small for the fitting I just stuff the compression fitting with butyl putty.
John

[honda03842]

Originally Posted by Perry J

Norm,
I use a boat fitting designed for where the coax antenna cable penetrates the hull.
Most marine stores carry them and there only about $5.00.
The base is about the size of a .50 peice and has a compression fitting with a rubber gromet the wire goes through to seal out the water.
I use rivets to attach the base to the roof.
If the wire is to small for the fitting I just stuff the compression fitting with butyl putty.
John

Thanks, I'll take a look for one.

[jimtesla]

you got the solar panel direct from sunflex? the picture on their site shows a different size for the 40 watt, looks like a square unit versus what you have will this fit on your rock shield thats where i want to place my next panel

another suggestion would be to use industrial velcro all four corners then when you travel take it down i have installed a permanent 80 watt panel to my roof and have two marine ports one on front and back for a portable panel that i move to when its needed i want to get a flexible unit for my rock guard use the velcro for a temp install and take down when traveling i have the hardware set up for both the front and rear window so i can change the rock guard position for shade you can use pvc pipes at different lengths to catch the sun better to angle the rock guard up or down

[honda03842]

We did get our panel directly from Sunflex. They were pretty quick getting it here and it was packaged really well.

I agree that the Sunflex picture looks relatively square. In reality the product matches the specs shown under the description of the 40 watt unit. It's closer to 2 to 1 than 1 to 1, actually 1.7 to 1.

I believe a single panel would fit on the rock shield. We plan to have two of the 40 watters and they would not fit on the rock shield.

We are generally opposed to doing temporary mounts. We don't carry coolers, chairs or anything like that inside the trailer. Our goal is for everything to have a place and not have to be moved to set up or live.

We like our setup to be as quick and simple as possible. Next year we'll be on the road for 300 days, meaning that we'd probably have to setup 70-100 times. For this reason we'll probably permanently mount our panels. As well we don't carry a ladder to make temporary roof installation a possibility on the roof. We depend on occasionally borrowing a ladder as we travel.

We do like the thinness and lightness of the panel. We don't think it will interfer with the slippery-ness of the Scamp. I will say that though they are called flexible panels, they are not nearly as flexible as the UniSolar panels. You almost have to think of them as sheets of 0.050 thick aluminum panels or greater. They bend but are not floppy in any sense.

I am seriously considering the marine fitting idea, plan to check them out when (if) the rain stops. (I had hoped to give the panel a test today but it's been a downpour all day.)

I have never considered rear mounting the rock guard but I do use plastic pipes with bungees down the center for rock guard support. I've occasionally considered window awnings because they look easy to do but neither of us consider them a necessity. We haven't had them in all our RV years, we simply close the curtains when necessary.

Thanks for the thoughts, it lookslike the marine fitting is a go.

[Perry J]

Norm West Marine part # WM 117283 is the coax deck fitting part #.
John

[honda03842]

Originally Posted by Perry J

Norm West Marine part # WM 117283 is the coax deck fitting part #.
John

Thanks John

[Andy B]

Originally Posted by honda03842

Though I knew it would be a tenth of inch thick, it's amazing to see how thin it is. The backing is a thin sheet of aluminum. Of course the connector is thicker than the panel.

I think the thickness dimension you quoted is off by a factor of 10. The Sunflex panel in the link you provided is listed as being 2.5mm thick. Assuming the web site is correct, then 2.5mm equals 0.098 inches, rounding off that is one hundredth of an inch thick, or a little less than the thickness of 3 sheets of paper.

[Andy B]

Woops, I stand corrected, when rounded it is a tenth of an inch thick.

[jimtesla]

here is a picture of the plug and panel with the connector they twist connect forming a tight seal i have one port on the front and one in the back with 20 feet of cable to use if I'm in the shade. I don't need this when I'm at the beach

two addl pictures from another scamp owner who showed me her set up

i also have a vertical wind generator that's just about ready for use so i will be at over 200 plus watts my rig is total green solar, propane and soon wind

i use the same plug and adapter for my wind generator

[honda03842]

I taped the panel to the roof, wired it thru a solar controller and began testing it. Though it's very overcast, it's producing 21.5 volts open circuit right in line with it's specification.

You can see I simply used blue painter's tape to hold it down for the test. We get an afternoon sea breeze and I wouldn't want it to blow away; it is very light.

I mounted it in the long direction because it sits flatter and when I add a second panel there will be no interference with the rivet caps.

The purpose of the test is to determine that the panel works as specified and to determine what temperature the roof reaches.

I took a closer look at the construction and the back of the panel is a thin piece of Lexan or the like, followed by a thin sheet of aluminum, then a thin insulating sheet, the cells and finally covered with a sheet of clear Tedlar. This is all bonded together into a watertight unit. The Lexan makes up the bulk of the thickness.

Here it is taped to the roof.

[jimtesla]

isn't it awesome overcast and your producing your own energy. im sorry but its only just begun for you. you will continue too add change and invent more and more for your trailer. I really like the looks of the panel and the fact it may just fit on the rock shield

[honda03842]

For the test I have 7 LED bulbs, each with 64 LEDs, 1 incandescent bulb, and three muffin fans running to put a load on the battery.

I have shut off the Converter so the only thing charging the battery is the Solar Panel.

At full sun the Sunflex solar panel is designed to provide about 2.3 amps of charging current. On this overcast day the peak I've seen so far is 1.4 amps. Hopefully this afternoon will be brighter.

[honda03842]

It's worked well.

Since the sky cleared the panel has produced 1.4 amps for most of the test. This is probably realistic since solar panels are rated for the June 21st overhead sunshine.

I ran all the loads for about an hour or so, simply to drain the battery a little. I figure the current draw of the load was about 4 amps or so, significantly greater than the solar panel's ability to supply current.

I than shut off the loads. The battery had dropped to 12.45 volts. I now have the panel fully recharging the battery.

The temperature of the panel is 98 degrees F, I can comfortably put my hand on it, similarly uderneath the panel, only a degree higher at 99F. Of course it is in the mid 60s today. This gives about a 35 degree rise.

[honda03842]

I'm very pleased with the panel and bought a second 40 watt panel tonight. When the second one comes in about a week I'll permanently mount both to the roof. I now have an assortment of through rough connectors, courtesy of a nephew and will select one.

[honda03842]

Solar Panels require a solar controller. Their primary function is to send current to the battery to keep it charged. It monitors battery voltage and senses if the battery needs charging. If it does need charging it sends the solar panel output to the battery.

We bought ours on EBay some 4 years ago; I saw it today for $19.50 with free shipping. It is rated for 10 amps. Since the combined maximum output from our panels is 4.6 amps this should be more than adequate.

It is probably the simplest, most basic controller you can buy. It does not provide a reading of current or voltage level.

You can see it on the EBay site. If any one would like to see the manual I have it in a PDF file.

10A Solar Panel Charge Controller Regulator 12V/24V st | eBay

[GeorgeR]

Norm,
Optimum operating voltage of your panel is 18V so at this voltage you could boost charging current by about 30% using MPPT controller. Prices of MPPT controllers are getting reasonable for example this one for ~ $27. 12V/24V 10A MPPT Solar Controller WS-MPPT15 | Wellsee Solar Products Manufacturers In China

I like your choice of using flexible monocrystalline panels. Before installation of my rigid solar panels with VHB tape I thoroughly cleaned both surfaces with MEK.

George.

[honda03842]

George, Thank you I was not aware that there was newer technology, I've had that controller for years but anything that can improve delivered power is worthwhile. I'll look into this class of controller. As well cleaning the surfaces before application of tape is important.

Thanks again.

[Sharon G]

Norm, I have this page bookmarked to use as my guideline when I get my egg. I love the idea of those thin, lightweight solar panels.

I do think I will mount mine so they can be tilted, though, as we like to boondock in Florida in the Ocala National Forest in the winter and there are no hookups there.

I was reading Tioga George's blog today and was amazed at how big a difference being able to tilt the panels can make. Here's what he wrote:

9AM - Tilting solar panels
A check of Mr Sunny's incoming power from solar panels showed only 5 amps/hour. It would take 14 hours to recharge the solar battery bank at this rate! The Sun has been traveling lower in the sky. Time for us to go up on MsTioga's roof and tilt the solar panels!

Rechecking incoming power after tilting and 15 amps/hour were coming in.
Tioga George Blog

The link content changes daily so for people reading after today, go to the October 6, 2011 post.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by Sharon G

Norm, I have this page bookmarked to use as my guideline when I get my egg. I love the idea of those thin, lightweight solar panels.

I do think I will mount mine so they can be tilted, though, as we like to boondock in Florida in the Ocala National Forest in the winter and there are no hookups there.

I was reading Tioga George's blog today and was amazed at how big a difference being able to tilt the panels can make. Here's what he wrote:

The link content changes daily so for people reading after today, go to the October 6, 2011 post.

I think George's tilts versus efficiency numbers are a little exaggerated. George’s claim is 5A (I don’t know why he is using A/hour units) at no tilt, 15A with tilt and maybe 22A later. Perhaps what George observed was early morning versus midday amperage output. See attached table for more realistic numbers: Solar Panels Orientation and Output

Tilting flexible panels could be challenging.

George.

[honda03842]

Certainly if you are seeking maximum output from your solar cells, tilt and even better, tracking are required. For me I would rather 'add an additional panel' than bother with tilting or tracking. I like the streamlined look and towing efficiency of a flat roof.

Here in NH the sun is comparitively low in the sky and our panels are operating at about 60% efficiency around mid day. Certainly tilting the panel would help early morning and afternoon efficiency, probably requiring adjustment more than once.

For us the addition of tilt hardware is not worth the effort though I now it may be for someand is for others. Our goal is for the panels to bring the battery back to full charge, replenishing what we used during the evening. To make this job easier we have all LED lighting except one bulb.

On days we camp we require enough solar output to recharge our battery during the day. If we are camped, normally we are not around our trailer during the day and use little power during the day (nor would we be there to adjust the panels).

On days we drive, about 70 out of 300 this year, tilt is valueless. As well we have the ability to charge from our tow vehicle as we drive as well as the Solar Panels as we drive.

If you're going to buy flexible panels, tilt would be more difficult. Though these panels are flexible they're not that flexible.