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06-25-2013, 05:54 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Courtney
Trailer: 1982 13ft Scamp purchased on May 2nd
Georgia
Posts: 303
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Oops?
So I took off the fluorescent light fixture behind the sink, but it left behind two bolt heads. I tried to get them off with a socket wrench, but they just spun and spun. I needed them off because I was installing the backsplash, so I just cut them off. Imagine my surprise when I could see daylight through the two little holes! I had no idea they were rivets! So, my question is...how do I fix this?
I was thinking I could drill out the back side of the rivets, and put in new ones through the new backsplash. Maybe even hang up a little basket there for little knick knacks. Or is that not a good idea?
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06-25-2013, 05:59 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Kd
Trailer: Scamp
SouthEast
Posts: 144
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Newbie me of course has no fixes. But what you said sounds good. I want to follow this and see what the pros have done. I've wondered about this while I'm yanking stuff out. My lights all still work so I've left them. But I really want to replace them with something more up to date. I love your 'go get em'!!
__________________
Live the life you love!
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06-25-2013, 06:29 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Shawn
Trailer: Boler
Florida
Posts: 368
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I ( Shawn) would just fill them back in. That would be 3 less holes in your egg!
I do like your "back splash", is that the plastic stuff? I was thinking about using that down the center of the ceiling but at 20 something a pop? I need something to cover around the ceiling fans I installed and thought that would look good.
Let us see the pic of it up when your done...
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06-25-2013, 07:37 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Scamp sells rivets and the plastic cover caps and bases in their parts dept.
You could just put in new rivets and cap covers from the outside and on the inside. (You may need to get what are call "Reinforcement Washers" for the inside) It's a good idea to stock these caps as you may already be missing some due to weathering etc.
If you own a Scamp, also owning a pop-rivet tool is about as essential as having a trailer hitch. (Don't worry they are cheeeep.)
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06-25-2013, 07:53 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
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I can see what Courtney is trying to do, wants a smooth flat surface to mount the b/splash. What you might do is instal the splash over the holes them drill thru same from outside and rerivit with hooks on inside to hang whatever or replace the light. this would eliminate the holes or having to patch them causing a repair look on the outside.
Ron
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06-25-2013, 08:53 AM
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#6
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Member
Name: Willis
Trailer: Beachcomber B15
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
Posts: 83
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I really wish I could just let this go, But I find myself returning to the photos, trying to find the third rivit on the inside. I like the idea of some hooks, I take it you are not putting the light fixture back up?
__________________
Just working in the shop
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06-25-2013, 09:50 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Courtney
Trailer: 1982 13ft Scamp purchased on May 2nd
Georgia
Posts: 303
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Nope, going with LED pucks under cabinet.
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06-25-2013, 01:41 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2004 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 27
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Willi,
I believe the outside picture is showing the two uppers are for the upper cabinet and the lower is just one end of the old light mounts. The second one is not visible from the outside shot.
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06-25-2013, 01:47 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by courtney
. Imagine my surprise when I could see daylight through the two little holes! I had no idea they were rivets!
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You will find that just about everything attached through the Scamp trailers shell is attached with rivets.
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06-25-2013, 02:14 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Some epoxy in those holes, sand lightly and paint with a matching white. Done.
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06-25-2013, 04:10 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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I removed that useless light too and hung a paper towel rack in its place using some of the origional holes. The holes I didnt use I put in new rivets and snap caps on the out side. Use a short rivet and it wont protrude much inside. the rivets hold nothing but the snap cap. No one knows how many snap caps there are supposed to be outside they just see covered snap caps. If you want really flush to the fiberglass put the rivet head in from the inside and Put the snap base on the outside. Any rivet sticking up higher than the base just file it down so you can get the cap on.
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06-25-2013, 07:47 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Tonia
Trailer: Scamp 13' (1982)
Wisconsin
Posts: 112
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I too removed the light to install a backsplash. I put in new rivets and covered with caps on the exterior....just because it seemed the easiest :-)
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06-25-2013, 07:56 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Tonia
Trailer: Scamp 13' (1982)
Wisconsin
Posts: 112
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Here's my backsplash. Still deciding if I should extend the wiring and install an undermount light....so I have one row and a little trim left. I had to install a board (thin) to level the wall first to get a good bond. Peal and stick, but I used construction adhesive.
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06-25-2013, 07:57 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,706
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I'm with David, fill the holes with two-part marine epoxy. It's water proof. If you wish you could put some caulk in a cap and place that over the hole. Or a little dab of paint.
Good luck with your decision!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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06-25-2013, 08:02 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Gilda
Trailer: 2011 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 1,445
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Tonia,
Interesting backsplash! What is it made of?
I'm also interested in the covers for the sink and the burners. What are they?
Thanks!
Happy Camping!
Gilda (Jill-da)
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06-25-2013, 08:12 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Tonia
Trailer: Scamp 13' (1982)
Wisconsin
Posts: 112
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The backsplash are 3"x6" stainless steel peal and stick tiles ( the ss is like a thin veneer). Home Depot and Menard's both carries them here (WI).
The stove cover came with at purchase and is a hinged cover (flips up toward the window).
The sink is just covered with a serving tray I picked up at Target a few months ago. Not a perfect fit but works for now. And I like the color ;-)
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06-25-2013, 08:45 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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I used marine epoxy putty to fill the holes. You can barely tell they were there and I didn't even paint over them on the outside. I ised the wiring to add another AC outlet so I don't have to run the margarita blender cord over the sink or stove. I found one at Home Depot that doesn't need to be mounted flush with the wall. I thought I might take the wiring out but it wasn't just snaked under the ensolite. It seemed to be glued in.
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06-25-2013, 09:27 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otters
I ised the wiring to add another AC outlet so I don't have to run the margarita blender cord over the sink or stove..
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My kind of thinking! Actually found at a thrift store the other days an old 60's style hand crank ice crusher in great shape for when off the grid.
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06-25-2013, 09:57 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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That's a great idea Carol. I'm going to keep my eyes open for one in the thrift shops. I do see them from time to time. I had one at one time.
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