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Old 07-10-2015, 01:23 PM   #41
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Em H View Post
I am scared of this project because I have never used fiberglass before, but your posts and Ian's blog have helped. You guys do awesome work. This forum is a tremendous help. A big thank you to everyone, and keep the pictures coming. Our fixer upper Scamp might become a full restoration like your Boler. Best of Luck!!!!
The fiberglass work isn't too bad, but it can be messy working with the resin and the glass can really make you itch especially sanding it so get you a tyvek suit and some good masks or a respirator is a must (pay the extra money and avoid the cheap dust masks)...lots of cardboard or something similar is a good idea for working with the glass as it drips a lot especially in summer heat so the cardboard will help catch any mess. As far as laying the glass and apply the resin have plenty of chip brushes (large box of them at Harbor Freight for about $10), plenty of paper bowls for resin, Popsicle sticks from a craft store work great for mixing the resin...as far as the old floors try to get them out so you can puzzle piece them together to use as a template for cutting the new floor, then cut the out diameter about 1/2 inch larger than needed and then you can trim it a little at a time with your jig saw until you get that perfect fit (its tedious but worth it for the right fit to the body)...too tight or too loose to the body can cause problems...mark the body to the frame at the rear bumper and tongue before you remove anything so you have a reference when going in with the new ones...make sure you glass it well and thick enough to the body on both the upper and undersides as this is what holds the body to the floor (floor bolted to the frame) to prevent it from blowing off going down the road...if your not sure about the structural integrity part get someone who is experienced with fiberglass to work with you or to do it all...
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:53 PM   #42
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Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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Update on Majic primer & paint job

Update on the Majic Paint...I primed it on Monday 7/6 and the can says wait at least 24 hours before the next coat...with our Georgia 90+ degree heat and high humidity the primer dried slowly...concerned I called Majic and got a lot of great information I thought I would pass on...first their paint is an alkyd type paint...it is extremely highly pigmented which is great and will go a long way...after expressing my concerns about the slow drying (still was not dry as of Thursday morning) and ready to strip it off the tech guy re-asuured me it would dry it just needed longer and that the primer film is probably too thick. He recommend getting a paint wet film thickness gauge which I am going to add to my tool box...Also he educated me on this type of paint and others including Marine 1 part polyurathane type paints and as well as modified alkyds...according to him Majic makes 1 version of this tractor paint for sale in all the states rather than 1 for California, 1 for another, etc. etc. due to governmental VOC regulations. This Tractor Truck and Implement paint is a low VOC paint, meaning it has very low amounts of additives such as thinners. And it is very thick. Their literature and lables recommend using only their reducer to thin it along with their hardner. Apparently they cant recommend using more than what they recommend for hardner or reducer but he did say using more than they specify won't hurt the product and would help its application, achieving thinner coats (which help with dry times) and a better harder finish. In fact when I pressed him about the use of paint thinner for roll & tip he said using up to 30% paint thinner would help the laydown for roll & tipping...he went on to say he personally had seen it done with excellent results...Also he educated me on thinners, paint thinner being the slowest to evaporate allowing for a better dry time vs other like naptha, xolulene, acetone, etc...KEY POINT: Alkyd paints dry from the top down, meaning they will skin on top first and be soft underneath until completely dry, which is exactly what happened in my case, the paint was soft underneath, but with each passing day it got harder. He assured me the paint would dry very hard and would work just fine on fiberglass. He recommended 1 thin coat for fiberglass since your are not protecting anything from rusting just as a sealer & binder for the top coat...the primer must be sanded smooth with 400 grit or higher before applying the top coat. I am sanding the primer now plus touching up a few areas & getting prepped for top coating...I will keep everyone updated & post some pictures of the top coat once applied & maybe some of me roll & tipping....
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:05 PM   #43
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
Posts: 250
That would be great (pictures of roll and tip), since I have no idea what it is and need to learn for my reno. Also, what is a chip brush? Thanks.

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Old 07-10-2015, 08:18 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa in FL View Post
That would be great (pictures of roll and tip), since I have no idea what it is and need to learn for my reno. Also, what is a chip brush? Thanks.

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A chip brush is a wood handle brush with natural bristles, when doing fiberglass you don't want to use brushes with synthetic bristles...here is a link:

36 Piece 2 in. Industrial Grade Chip Brushes
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:22 AM   #45
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Thanks, that's very helpful

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Old 08-07-2015, 10:56 AM   #46
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Sorry I haven't updated our progress lately but we had some delays on our project.

First the exterior paint. I did not pay close enough attention when I bought the primer and got the wrong kind. I bought the red oxide primer and shoud have purchased the gray sandable primer. My bad... The red would have worked okay to accept the top coat except I wanted to sand the primer before applying the top coat to address some minor imperfections in my body work. The red oxide primer is not a sandable primer. And I rolled it on to thick not having something to gauge the wet film thickness. The magic brand primers and paints should be applied at about 2.5 mils thickness wet. Thinner than a sheet of #20 copy paper. Using a micrometer, I scraped a sample off with a razor blade and estimate I put it on about 3 to 4 times that thick so drying was an issue. It was dry to the touch in 36 hours but wasn't cured underneath in places after 6 days. So we stripped it all off, lightly sanded and then applied the gray sandable primer which dried very quickly 4 to 6 hours and cured in 24 hours (aprox.) I am much happier with it. Below are some pictures of what the red oxide primer did when we tried to sand it (it was soft & gummed up the sandpaper)...lesson learned ~ read labels thoroughly!

I also purchased a good quality automotive sprayer from Harbor Freight for $17 with coupon and sprayed the primer on to ensure thin coats. I did not use Majic's reducer but I did use their catalyst hardner. I mixed the paint 1 pint at a time 25% mineral spirits, 75% paint + 1 ounce of hardner with very good results for both primer & top coat paint. It worked very very well, with very great control of the air flow, pattern & fine tuning compared to my other sprayer. We then sanded the primer with 400 grit to get a super smooth surface. Next I applied 1 layer of top coat gloss white (we decided to go all white instead of white/red). Now I need to sand it with 400 grit and apply a 2nd coat. The white dried in 12 hours and cured hard in 24 to 36 hours.

After the final coat I will wet sand it with 1000 grit and then apply a clear coat (have to wait 14 days for that). But even with the wasted red oxide primer I have $150 total in paint for the body and I am very happy with the results. It would have been better if I had an enclosed building so I didn't have to deal with bugs on the paint but that is minor and the wet sanding will take care of that.

This weekend we are rebuilding the jalousie windows with new seals & polishing them & other hardware & belly band. Should have paint finished by Sunday if weather permitting too.

Now we just got to finish the interior. I finally decided to put the a/c under the lower bunk venting it out the side. I really hate ( cringing) to cut a hole in the body after doing all that fiberglass repair & filler work but it has got to go somewhere. The a/c exhaust vent will be smaller than the patched 3 way fridge vents though. I am pulling fresh air in from underneath the trailer to take advantage of the cooler air underneath the shade of the trailer.

Anyway here are some pictures of our progress, enjoy!

Also, we made reservations today for the October Egg Gathering in Cherokee, see you there!
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:25 PM   #47
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Our 1971 13' Boler Restoration & Modification

How do you change/edit the title to a thread?

I want to change this one from
"Our 1971 13' Boler mods"
to
"Our 1971 13' Boler Complete Restoration with Modifications"
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:33 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
How do you change/edit the title to a thread?

I want to change this one from
"Our 1971 13' Boler mods"
to
"Our 1971 13' Boler Complete Restoration with Modifications"
Oh, how may have been down that path before!
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:27 AM   #49
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Wanted to take a minute to update on our progress. Been working on a lot of different things when I have time but between work, the weather & some family things progress has slowed down. But it should be campable by Thursday...

We started staining the woodwork/cabinetry with Miniwax Stain in Golden Pecan but it looked to "orange" for our taste & didn't go well with our laminate flooring so we went back and got Polyshades a 2 in 1 stain/polyurethane in Bombay Mahogany, looks much better and we are happy with it but neither color looked like what was on the color charts or the label. We sanded the original table top which was obviously a different wood and it turned out absolutely gorgeous. Not having worked with stain or polyurethane before I don't know if the wood itself changed the color or if maybe I used to much...I finished up the bathroom minus the plumbing & poly panels to cover the walls. My wife is tackling the insulation which we figured out works better cutting & gluing small pieces. The reflectix would have been easier in the curves but this 1/2" foam board will insulate much better & provide better noise reduction and costs a lot less.

I also made the drip pan for the a/c using a wood frame since the a/c is sitting directly on the floor under the bottom bunk & coated it with fiberglass resin to water proof it. I will put on a second coat today just to make sure.

Also got the converter/charger installed in the dinette, propane water heater installed, finished the cubby hole in the bath for towels & toiletries which is to the right of the water heater, linoleum in the bathroom, holes cut for the electrical & water hatches, installed the new door lock with deadbolt, & made the front frame trim piece for the cabinet that holds the refrigerator, got the Also got the new door lock installed, will post picture later.

Over the next 3 days I will finish the a/c install, install roof vent to the water heater, install propane line & regulator, replace the trailer lights, electrical wiring, plumbing, laminate hardwood, install the bathroom accordion door, reset the door hinges & finish the door interior, & reinstall the windows.
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:03 PM   #50
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Great job
On a side note... While at times your helper may at times be more of a distraction.... You and your assistant are building great bond and alot of memories


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Old 08-31-2015, 07:09 PM   #51
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Thanks and yes we have had an awesome bond since he was born and it grows everyday...he really likes helping dad work on things, the other day when these pics were taken he picked up my screw driver and was actually driving screws in the wood all by himself, pretty cool for just turning 3 years old, so very proud of him
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:17 PM   #52
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I can't believe the entire door was full of wood! I think (hope) mine just has it around the window to have something to screw the window into. I think your's now will not only be lighter but retain it's shape and have a ton more insulation. Loving the pics of your renovation!
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:17 AM   #53
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1st camping trip in the Boler!

Okay folks, I have been so busy lately trying to get our Boler campable that I have not taken as many pictures illustrating and posting on the work we have been doing, but we got a lot done. It is still not complete but we were able to get out of town for a couple of days to try it out. Our trip was shorter than planned since we left Saturday afternoon instead of Thursday evening but had a nice couple of days at Jekyll Island.

We were in good company with (2) Casitas and a number of other vintage (non-fiberglass) rv of the tin can variety. This is a very nice campground right across the street from the beach access, very friendly staff and camp hosts so we will be returning again in the future. It did rain a good bit so we didn't get to do a lot but we did enjoy our Boler.

The one minor mishap we had was when we arrived to our site & opened the door the top hinge nuts had came off! Luckily the bottom hinge still had one bolt with the nut still on, so between that & our new door look with deadbolt the door didn't fall off going down the road. I borrowed a couple of nuts from the body side of the hinge to hold it on for the night & the next morning I went and got new lock nuts for all the door hinge bolts on the door & body side of the hinge. And yes they were tight when we left going to the campground so I was very surprised that they worked loose. While using it this weekend we figured out a few things/adjustments we need to make as we complete our project. Before we left I managed to get the a/c wiring done, new laminate floors in, the bathroom accordion door hung, etc. etc. Unfortunately in our rush to get out of town last week I missed taking a lot of photos but I will take them this week sometime & post.

One thing we really missed was not having our shower hooked up. I will get that done this week. I am also considering making a custom fiberglass shower pan instead of using the utility sink as we will gain about 3 inches in both directions for showering. If I do this It will be a shower pan than will also go under the porta pottie similar to a wet bath setup, also have to get the right adapters to hook the shower drain to the sewer hose.

A few other things we decided are must haves is:
Utilizing the full width of the dinette for our bed (our curved dinette top shortens the bed width
A canopy/awning
Outdoor rug
Reconstructing the cabinets over the dinette & the bunk to maximize storage space by increasing their height & depth with shelves over the side windows
Plastic storage box for our outdoor kitchen
Large tongue box
Rear hitch with cargo carrier
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:40 PM   #54
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
Posts: 250
Your rebuild and restore is great inspiration for me. One Q, what is roll and tip?

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Old 09-08-2015, 01:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa in FL View Post
Your rebuild and restore is great inspiration for me. One Q, what is roll and tip?

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Thank you! Roll and tip is a method of painting used by boat builders to get a really nice finish using a roller & brush. I was going to use this method but changed my mind and decided to use a spray gun.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:25 PM   #56
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Been busy at work but finally got to take our Boler out for our weekend in the Mountains...stayed at happy holiday in Cherokee since we missed the rally we just changed our reservation. We have a few things still to work on and some adjustments & changes to make before spring.

1st picture is our Fastair instant hot water heater which is awesome, worked really well...I do have a problem with our faucet which we re-purposed from the PO sink so I will be replacing it but the shower head worked well. The Camco sewer adapter for a garden hose seemed okay but the garden hose was too stiff to lay flat on the ground to drain, so I tried one of those expandable hoses and that drained to slow so I will likely go with a regular rv sewer elephant drain hose. Also need to come up with a better way to hang our shower curtain, the curtain didn't want to stay on the stick on hooks we put to the inside of the front window. Other than that the shower setup worked great....

Love our door lock, but may make a custom strike plate so it latches with a little more ease...door opens fully thanks to Ian's tip on lowering the upper hinge (we dropped it about 6 inches and it made a huge difference.

3rd picture is the epoxy I used for many applications including fiberglass filling, wood to fiberglass and metal to fiberglass...this stuff is really good...PC-11 part A & B shown...very easy to work with and a better working window than Bondo...4th picture is when we were on the way to Jekyll Island the last holiday weekend just late posting it...and the last ones of our stay at Happy Holiday...

We are going to have to work on an extension for the dinette/bed when in bed mode as the table is curved on the front end making it narrower than it should be and we are considering making it a permanent bed with storage underneath....still have lots of interior work to do on finishing the cabinet doors, cabinet door locks, extra shelving, finishing insulation & marine headliner wall covering....
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:55 PM   #57
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Oh, we did notice some condensation with the electric heater going and the outside temps in the 30s/40s at night...seems that the condensation may have caused the glue under the foam insulation to release from the fiberglass in places. We coated both the insulation and the inside shell with the contact cement, waited 15 minutes then applied with pressure...so the condensation is the only thing I can think of that caused it not to stick, unless maybe we applied the wrong side to the shell, we left the foil side facing in so we could glue the headliner to it but maybe the plastic on the other side cant hold adequately...may try some reflectix but really wanted to use the foam sheets all over for not only better insulation but also noise reduction...
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:25 AM   #58
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Latest update...we took the camper this weekend for our 3rd outing in extreme northern NC at Satterwhite Point on Kerr Lake. This is a beautiful place and we will likely return in the spring or summer. The campground was very nice with electric & water hookups but no sewer but they did have a dump station. Most of the sites were right on the water including ours. We stayed Friday night but Saturday it started to pour and was forecast to rain all day and with a small leak in the rebuilt Jalousie window on the door side we opted to get a room for Saturday night.

Anyway, since the window I rebuilt is still leaking, I am thinking of replacing both the side Jalousie windows with the new style round corner sliding windows. I will start my hunt for these this week, but that means I will have to do more fiberglass work to round the corners of the window openings which I am not looking forward to.

I also have a small drip in the riser I made for the vent due to the fact that I used Bondo (and it has cracked exposing the wood) instead of Marine epoxy to seal the outside of the layers of plywood. So I will be rebuilding the riser and will use the PC-11 epoxy this time, maybe with some fiberglass resin underneath to ensure no leaks.

And the last thing is the bed issue, which is to narrow for me & my wife to sleep comfortably so I am trying to figure out a way to widen the bed to the full width of the dinette seats and still have the ability to use it as a dinette, though we are strongly considering making it a permanent bed. Even though about completely rebuilding it and making a goucho on the back wall that would slide out to a large bed, not sure if that will work for us or not but it would definitely make it more roomy in goucho mode....

Other than that every thing else is pretty good including our shower/bath (though we may reverse the way the door slides open)...hot water heater works great, shower curtain needs a little work.

Thinking about using curtain rods on top and bottow of windows to keep the curtains against the windows for better privacy, which may mean wife has to work on them a little.

Oh, and last but not least we got a hitch on our 07 Kia Sedonna and 3 new tires from Firestone on the Boler and it towed great! No swaying or anything at highway speeds of 70 MPH on I-85...

More to come later!
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:30 PM   #59
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Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
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13' Boler, 6 people, plus toilet & Shower?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Okay, we are newbies here, me & my wife just purchased our first camper trailer, a 13' 1971 Boler. Wife wouldn't camp without a shower & toilet, so we started looking. I have always liked the Scamps & we found a Boler for sale locally and the price was right & we got it.

After getting it home and deciding what to fix up to make it our own & suitable for our needs we discovered a few problems that needed addressing and decided to do them now:

1. Roof mounted AC poorly installed, leaking seal & rotten plywood, roof sagging, & fiberglass piece was cut out & re-patched.
2. Poor patch jobs to fiberglass where fridge & vents used to be
3. Musty smell from moisture behind wall covering, leaks from rivets, windows, etc.
4. Door sagging, needs resealing
5. Battery storage area under dinette needs to be relocated to trailer tongue
6. Improvements needed to 110v and 12vdc electrical system
7. Leveling scissor jacks needed

And of course, there are the things we want to change/add to it:
1. Add a toilet & shower
2. Redo the floor covering
3. Paint or recover walls/ceiling
4. Repaint cabinets, seats, bed fixtures
5. New seat cushions/covers, drapes, etc.
6. Solar panels/inverter/charger

Okay, since we are doing the repairs in the first list we might as well tackle our wants now...so I have come up with a redesign of the interior to allow for a shower & toilet & still allow for sleeping of up to 6 people...with a sink, microwave, refrigerator, and 1 or 2 burner electric cooktop. I will post a picture of the layout...

So I figure I will set up this camper for both AC power & water hookup and battery/solar only. No propane except for coleman camping stove using small propane bottles outside of trailer. Inside we will use a 1 or 2 burner hotplate for a cooktop ($11 to $20 at Fred's). Solar shower ($9 Coleman @ Walmart) if no water hookup, electric water heater if AC is available (still searching). Porta pottie for a toilet (got it - Bass Pro $45 on clearance), a utility sink ($50 Lowe's open box) as our "shower pan" with a shower curtain and a PVC frame for the curtain. Sink cabinet is coming out to make room for double bunk/couch, closet is being replaced with a custom cabinet to hold small sink, smallest micro we can find with a rotating plate & 1 or 2 storable electric cooktop (hot plate) and small ac/dc fridge to go under the bottom bunk. Freshwater holding tank also under bottom bunk (using collapsible gray water container under trailer/stored when not needed) Will also have a platform/riser that will allow a twin bunk on the floor with leg room under the double bed/dinette. And if we needed a sixth bed we could make a small removable bunk above the dinette for a small child.

Now our biggest dilemma has been what to redo the walls with...after a lot of looking & reading here, trips to home depot & lowes, we finally found a sewing store (hancock fabrics) that has tons of auto headliner cheap! And they also have a good selection of affordable vinyl. With their coupons we will get an even better deal! Now neither of these have much for insulation, so we found a vinyl laminate that would work and be very close to the original rubber wall covering but a lot nicer looking, but too expensive for our budget. Plus the auto headliner or white vinyl should conform easier to the curves and domed corners. The vinyl can be washed but the cloth headliner is appealing so we are on the fence. As for insulation under this, we found 1/8" closed cell above ground pool wall foam at Home Depot at a great price ($48.99 for 48" x 85' ft roll) with a roll big enough to do the whole interior.

As you can see, I am very resourceful and very frugal... Now as we work on these things we are looking at the appliances to find great deals and low power consumption for when we are "off the grid"...

Glad to be here & looking forward to your ideas & comments!
: plus all the other facilities to be able to live inside on a wet cold windy week?
Why in the world did you not go for a 17' Boler which already has a shower, toilet etc. and all the facilities?
Stude
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Old 11-09-2015, 02:23 PM   #60
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stude View Post
: plus all the other facilities to be able to live inside on a wet cold windy week?
Why in the world did you not go for a 17' Boler which already has a shower, toilet etc. and all the facilities?
Stude
Okay Stude good question! Well I got a little over zealous with the 6 people lol, but it works well for our family of 3 and we could sleep more if we had too...but anyway, we don't see that many fiberglass rv's for sale in our area and the ones we do see are usually out of our price range that we were comfortable spending on a used camper. This one was bought at a very good price (well less than $2K), and was campable but we just wanted to make it ours and I love projects...not to mention it is as old as I am so that was appealing to me for some unknown reason

I have always tent camped but my wife hasn't unless you count a hotel room lol, and she said she would only camp if it had a shower & toilet so here we are... Anyway, I don't really care about cooking inside a 13' camper or even a 16' for numerous reasons but we did want a fridge to keep stuff cold and place to store food & utensils. I love cooking over an open campfire or grill, so the kitchen was not really needed, and we keep a Rubbermaid container that has our coffee maker and an electric griddle in it and a camp stove with 2 pans so we can cook outside under our canopy if it is raining...
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a/c, air conditioner, bath, bathroom, boler, closet, door, floor, rebuild, restoration, roof top, shower, toilet


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