Outside access panel for Scamp & eletrical mods - Fiberglass RV

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Old 09-19-2006, 08:33 AM   #1
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Ron Gaillot's Avatar
Name: Cyber Ron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Western PA - near Pittsburgh
Posts: 12
I first joined this forum about a year ago when I placed my order for my new 16' side-dinnette Scamp. Due to the fire in January, my tailer was delayed until July of this year.

I was looking for a post that I had seen about putting an access panel on the driver's side to access the storage under the seat in the back (water connection and electric come in there, but the space is huge). I would like to access the water hose, pressure regulator, and electrical adapters that I store in this area, from the outside, rather than carry them around from inside the trailer. I remember that someone had done this, had posted not only pictures, but a parts list.

If you are the person who did this, I would appreciate it if you could post it again. I have searched in vain for it, but it appears that information has been lost (I saw a notice to repost all modifications done in the past).

I have added 12V closet lights and 4-12V power sockets to my new trailer if anyone is interested in the details. I decided I needed the interior ones for rechargers for my laptop, cell phone, PDA, and to run my CPAP machine (via an inverter) should I camp at a more primative site with no water or electric hookup (my wife and I like visiting state parks and other out of the way places).

The outside sockets were another matter. I also had need to use a small compressor while on the road to pump up a trailer tire, but my DC cord wouldn't reach. I could have purchased an extension, but then I thought I have power on the trailer, I just need to get to. I examined the schematics for the trailer and figured out the best means to accomplish this, and found two unused fused circuit connections on my power converter, so I split them for the two sides of the trailer - two separate fusable circuits.

I used quality DC sockets - marine grade, waterproof ones for the outside, and stainless steel ones with covers, for the inside (I have two small grandsons we want to take camping, and don't want them sticking "things" into the sockets). All were purchased from an RV dealer.

For the closet lights, I optained two dome interior lights with switches mounted right in the fixture. These I attached high up in each compartment (using a block of wood with Household Goop all-purpose adhesive/sealant) and ran the wires to the bottom of lower cabinet where the wiring for the bathroom lighting is connected. I used an inline, crimp, splice connector similar to the one used by Scamp to make the power connection here, and used white duct tape to hold the wiring to the interior walls.

If anyone is interested in this project please let me know and I will post. It may be a little bit before I can post pictures until I get my home PC back up again - been down at home for over 6 weeks and have to use my work computer to access this forum.
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:49 AM   #2
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,140
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Here is an EBay source for all sorts of RV doors and parts, new and used. I have purchased from them before and they are quick and honest. Honest in that I sent them cash and they sent me the door that was as described.

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Old 09-19-2006, 09:34 AM   #3
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Trailer: 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel Dlx / 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4
Posts: 1,125
whats the best size to get for the scamps? I would like to put one in too....
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Old 09-19-2006, 09:56 AM   #4
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Posts: 25,156
whats the best size to get for the scamps? I would like to put one in too....
Depends on where you want it and what you need it for. Bigger is not necessarily better, but if it's too small, might thwart the reason for having it. Because you're cutting a hole in the side of the trailer, it's something to give some thought to.
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 09-19-2006, 10:10 AM   #5
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Trailer: 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel Dlx / 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4
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i am thinking more on the lines of having it to put the waterhose in ( under back bunk) and maybe a few small tools... that way i dont have to lift of cushions from the inside of the trailer...
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:51 PM   #6
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,000
While you're planning...

I think it might be nice for this to be a drawer, rather than a door into a fixed compartment. That might make it easier to get at the contents. The same door, door frame, and catch as a conventional installation might work as a drawer front, frame, and catch, just without the hinge. The drawer box and slides would of course take space and add weight, which might not be worthwhile, but it might be worth considering.
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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Old 09-20-2006, 06:52 AM   #7
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Name: Al
Trailer: Scamp
North Carolina
Posts: 586

I added an outside access hatch to my S16 Scamp last year and its proven to be one of my more useful mods. Pics are on the yahoo scamper board under 'Cindy & Al' album. You'll need to join that group to access the photos but I'd suggest it as a resource for any egg owners regardless of brand - lots of pics of some really neat mods from various members. Link http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/sca...os/browse/c130

The hatch I installed is a Bomar 8" X 12" which I bought from Outer Banks Outfitters
For my use of this area, chocks, blocks, hoses and other outside setup items, this is an ideal size. You may be able to find this hatch a little cheaper if you search the net - OBX Outfitters is local to me. I've used Bomar products for years on boats and have a lot of confidence in the brand but there may be other equally good mfrs out there.

Not much to the install. I used the hatch as a template then cut out the opening with my dremel. There were water lines and electrical wiring running on the floor of the compartment next to the outside wall so the bottom cut must be high enough to miss these - other than that, no problems. I used ribbon putty tape as a sealer and have had no leaks. Took me about an hour for the whole thing.

Good luck with the project - Al
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:24 AM   #8
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Trailer: 16 Scamp, 17 Casita, 21Bigfoot now
Posts: 425
You could also ask Casita. I used to have a Scamp and I intended to add a door but never got to it. I now have a Casita and I love the door under the rear bed. I put hoses, chalk blocks, leveling wood and a butane lighter for water heater and my extra sewer connections, rod for stabilizer and some other things. Really like it! Off hand, I'd say it's about 8" by 12".
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