ParkLiner cabinet door holder-openers

[frank_a]

After trying to do a spring thing like Tammie & Joel did, I opted for something ready-made, namely RV Designer H271.

I still needed to make blocks for mounting whatever I used to hold the doors open. I tried Gorilla Glue for the 1st time and was amazed at how good it worked. Problem is 2 layers of 1X3 oak don't quite fit the depth between cabinets, so I just barely can't Gorilla Glue them down to the actual fiberglass cabinet (they had to be screwed in place). Hope to figure that out tomorrow. It needs to be simple...



Here's the install. They snap right open, and close with some gusto.





Soon as I figure this 1/32nd thickness mounting block problem out, I'll get the rest done without screws holding them in, and looking better than this test. Screws will come out for the test one too. I have one more pair of the door supports, but just ordered 4 more pair from Amazon. With state tax, it was 31 bucks and change for 4 more pairs. For the most part, I only need one per door I think, except one I'll need both sides for.

There were no directions with these babies, and I could only find one picture on the web of them installed. I pretty much used that picture and figured no better time than now for a test.

Frank

[Tammie]

Hey Frank,
That looks like a stronger and simpler solution than my springs. I'll give it a try on the upper bathroom storage door. Thanks!
Joel

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Tammie

Hey Frank,
That looks like a stronger and simpler solution than my springs. I'll give it a try on the upper bathroom storage door. Thanks!
Joel

We bought all they had at Camping World in Kingston NY Joel - 2 pairs! They're cheaper than Amazon, but the shipping costs from Camping World and the 2 week wait pushed us to Amazon. We're Prime members, so don't pay shipping and my 4 pair will be here Monday. Anyways, here's a link: Amazon.com: RV Designer H271 Spring Loaded Cabinet Door Strut, (Pack of 2): Automotive

You will like them. Easy to do.

Frank

[frank_a]

Looks like I need 1/8" more thickness. I would like it to be screen-like, so when I Gorilla Glue it and clamped it, the glue would work through and hold everything together. Any ideas?

Frank

[Ice-breaker]

Although one strut is enough to hold the doors open, I would be somewhat concerned that repeated racking forces during closing of the door would be damaging to the hinges on your door. I would definitely go with struts on either side to balance things out.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

Although one strut is enough to hold the doors open, I would be somewhat concerned that repeated racking forces during closing of the door would be damaging to the hinges on your door. I would definitely go with struts on either side to balance things out.

Thanks for the advice Dave. I assume you have experience with these door supports?

These are commonly used just on one side of a door. We'll give it a go and see how things work out, and in the meantime I will keep a close eye on how those hinges take the abuse.

Part of the problem is I can only put blocks in like I'm using on adjacent sides. The other sides have structural components that would make positioning closers more difficult.

Thanks!

Frank

[Timber Wolf]

It looks as though you are attaching the bottom of the supports to the end grain of the wood block. It would be better if you could turn the blocks and go in the side, although the Oak maybe plenty strong anyway.

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

It looks as though you are attaching the bottom of the supports to the end grain of the wood block. It would be better if you could turn the blocks and go in the side, although the Oak maybe plenty strong anyway.

I am attaching these to the end grain of the oak Tim. It seems very strong, as it is not easy to drill pilot holes in, let alone turn the mounting screws in even the 2nd time. It would be difficult with what I have to do it any other way. All I can do is see how this works out.

I used oak as opposed to poplar or pine for it's relative hardness.

I'll keep y'all posted as to how this works out. This was a test. I now have the shims I need and will get back to it as I can.

Thanks!

Frank

[Night Sailor]

I love this hardware. I ordered these online and didn't realize they came two to a pack. That turned out well as I found other used for them. They do a fair job holding the door closed too.

[accrete]

looks like a good fix Frank!
Thom

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by accrete

looks like a good fix Frank!
Thom

Thanks Thom. I'm having a bit of trouble building these blocks out. I really don't want to break out the fiberglass, but it's looking more and more like I have to. We'll see.

We're gone for the weekend visiting family far away. It will have to wait till next week.

Frank

[Tammie]

I used 1x4 poplar and pine and the thickness was enough to hold the cross member just away from the fiberglass door opening. (otherwise the support piece would not contact the fiberglass wall) I think some boards are milled thicker than others. I joined the wood pieces with wood glue and reinforced with screws. I used Gorilla glue to join the wood to fiberglass with no screws and clamped the whole unit in the gap between the doors until set. I haven't drilled any holes in the fiberglass (yet).

Do the hinges you bought require much force to close? If so, the screws might be needed.

Joel

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Tammie

I used 1x4 poplar and pine and the thickness was enough to hold the cross member just away from the fiberglass door opening. (otherwise the support piece would not contact the fiberglass wall) I think some boards are milled thicker than others. I joined the wood pieces with wood glue and reinforced with screws. I used Gorilla glue to join the wood to fiberglass with no screws and clamped the whole unit in the gap between the doors until set. I haven't drilled any holes in the fiberglass (yet).

Do the hinges you bought require much force to close? If so, the screws might be needed.

Joel

Good morning Joel,

First of all, it's a bit after 5, and I just came in from walking Buckley. My 1st cup of coffee sitting here, and I need it!

Trust me, I'm no expert on this stuff. Basically I got frustrated with the spring thing like you did, and looked for something simpler. On the plus side, I now have a varied selection of dowels and springs...

My two experiments last night for building the block out were not successful, so while in the car today for 6 hours (and again tomorrow), I will have time to think about this.

My first experiment involved trying to split 1/8" luan. 1/8" is too thick, so I figured it should split easy. It doesn't. Next I tried two pieces of fiberglass mat sandwiched between the oak pieces. The Gorilla Glue bound it real well, but it still wasn't thick enough. I keep thinking some kind of 1/16" screen in between the pieces of oak might work, allowing the Gorilla Glue to bind around it.

Based on my 1st efforts, if this Gorilla Glue holds to the fiberglass like it holds wood together, there is no need for screws to hold the wood. I used screws because I was hesitant to mount the door support until I was sure everything would work. It is very cool the way these inexpensive supports work, so I will figure out this block problem I have.

Ya know Joel, I used oak for this because of it's hardness. I really don't think the one screw that mounts each unit will pull out, but this is all an experiment. I just don't know, but will keep at it till it's done. Then we'll see over time what happens.

I have to get ready to hit the road. Enjoy your weekend!

Frank

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

Although one strut is enough to hold the doors open, I would be somewhat concerned that repeated racking forces during closing of the door would be damaging to the hinges on your door. I would definitely go with struts on either side to balance things out.

I thought I would need hinges on both side. When I went to install these I found that one worked very well. I've new using these since February or March and am confident the will last indefinitely. I suppose that Al depends on the quality of your doors and hinges.