Polishing Gel Coat - Bleeding Decals

[Sitah]

I bought some reputed polishing/buffing stuff (aplogies for the technical language) to get at the oxidation on my Casita, which works great by the way. I tested one spot next to a decal and found that the "Casita" decal's color was spreading when I buffed (by hand). The color cleaned away, but I'm left with three options: 1) Remove the decals completely and risk ghosting, 2) Remove decals and replace--this would be $80+ from the Casita store , or 3) Leave them be and carefully buff around them.

I'm just wondering if anyone had advice on this.

Thank you!

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

I wouldn't worry about replacing removed decals. Casita isn't paying anyone that I am aware of to advertise for them. It may just be me, but I wouldn't loose a minute of sleep to lose my Lil' Snoozy decals. I owe them nothing and this has nothing to do with any ill will (that doesn't exist) towards the company.
Spending $80 for something that adds nothing to the functionality or comfort of the trailer goes beyond my sense frugalness.

[Sitah]

Thanks, Bill. I'll probably either buff around them or remove them at this point.

[DaveWI]

Just curious. What’s the name of the product?

[Sitah]

Originally Posted by DaveWI

Just curious. What’s the name of the product?

After cleaning the surface, I use a kitchen sponge and do small areas a little at a time. Works better in the shade and/or with cooler temps.

[Jon in AZ]

When I was removing the faded and cracked decals on my Scamp, I also had the same problem with powdery ink from the decals smearing into the surrounding gelcoat. It became embedded in the pores of the fiberglass and didn’t fully polish out. I had to carefully coax the decals off by lifting and peeling so the ink wouldn’t smear. Heat and plastic-blade razors (from the paint section of the hardware store) we’re my main tools.

So… definitely do not just polish right over them. Either remove them or polish carefully around them. If you remove, your call about whether to replace. The ghosting bothered me, so I ended up replacing the large “Scamp” letters but not the stripes. I enjoy being a “brand ambassador.” Don’t remember what I paid, but it was way less than $80, and the shipping included a number of more functional items at the same time.

[parmm]

I had some fiberglass work done on my Scamp 19 recently and the shop that did it said I should use "Spray 19". He showed me a couple areas that he did, and it was like brand new gelcoat Mine is a 2006, and sure should have oxidation by now. He said to just do a small area, like 2 foot square, at a time. I have not tried it yet, as I have been tied up with other projects. Just offering a tip.


Oh, I did not replace the large Scamp logo where I had the work done either. I like Scamp, but if they want me to advertise, they should replace it for free. I use to sell newspaper advertising, so just saying - I know the value of the printed work.

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by parmm

I had some fiberglass work done on my Scamp 19 recently and the shop that did it said I should use "Spray 19". He showed me a couple areas that he did, and it was like brand new gelcoat

Is there a brand name? I tried to find this product and could only find glass cleaner. Thanks

[parmm]

Originally Posted by Bill in Pittsburgh

Is there a brand name? I tried to find this product and could only find glass cleaner. Thanks

Oops, had a extra digit in there. Please excuse my big fingers! Spray Nine

https://www.spraynine.com/product/sp...8/?cat_refer=7

[Sitah]

Just for kicks and giggles, I put a little Turtle Wax Trim Restorer (great product) on one of the "Casita" decals, and it surprisingly brought the color out. Of course, it doesn't look new, but it doesn't look near as faded. I was careful not to apply it to the gel coat in case it had adverse effects.

[LuckyPenny]

Do you use Meguiars on worn gel coat? What are others doing for gel coat repair?

[Sitah]

Originally Posted by LuckyPenny

Do you use Meguiars on worn gel coat? What are others doing for gel coat repair?

When it is cool and no sun is on the surface, I apply a little Meguiars to a sponge and work it over small areas at a time. When the compound is still damp on the surface, I wipe it away with a clean microfiber towel. It's taking a while, but it seems to be working just fine. Having a buffer probably would help more, but I don't have one.

[Cynthia in Montana]

Have been reading lots of stuff on Meguairs, but Jim is anti anything with silicone. Should we really care? On an auto, it makes a repaint or touch up hard, but if my trailer gets hit repaint is the least of problems. I just want a bit of cleaner & lots of shine! Stay with Meguiars or what else? Thanks.

[parmm]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=IER1gzjLizM

Barkeepers Friend that you find under the kitchen sink works too, but you have to work a lot harder at it.

[Josh Robinson]

I would never use automobile products like Magwires on gelcoat.


The products to use are Poliprep, and Poliglow. They are expensive products made for high end marine gelcoat. They work.

[parmm]

Originally Posted by Josh Robinson

I would never use automobile products like Magwires on gelcoat.


The products to use are Poliprep, and Poliglow. They are expensive products made for high end marine gelcoat. They work.

Poliglow,Zep red Cap floor finish,Starbrite,Mop n Glo, all basically polyurethane waterbased finishes that will work beautifully on gel coat,fiberglass RV's etc. Just get the oxidized gunk and black streaks off before applying at least 4 coats of that floor finish stuff. And if it runs, you have to remove it and start over again! And in about 2 years, you have to remove it and start over again!! It will start to peel after about 3 years!!!

[DaveWI]

Has anyone tried 3M Marine Restorer and Wax? 3M Marine Restorer and Wax, 09005, 16.9 fl oz https://a.co/d/6u910qB?