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Old 04-24-2019, 05:14 PM   #1
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Name: Benjamin
Trailer: Trails West Campster
California
Posts: 14
Propane line

Hi all,
I am finishing up the details on my 1971 campster rebuild (longer picture tread will follow later).

The campster originally had a gas lantern and stove top, I took out the lantarn when i replaced the internal walls but would like to keep the working stove top for morning coffee etc.

Originally there was copper tubing running inside the trailer benches from front to back, as I understand it the norm now is to run lines on the outside.

My 2 questions:
-Should I move lines outside to the frame?

- Can I use either stainless steel braided hose, or a similar product from mr. heater rather than copper with rubber hose pigtails?
If I did this on the exterior I would run the hoses through a pex or PVC sleeve for extra protection.

Stainless steel braided example:
https://www.amazon.com/DOZYANT-Stain...gateway&sr=8-1


Mr. Heater hose:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Nat...gateway&sr=8-5
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:51 PM   #2
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Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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ME, I would have a licensed GAS person come over and give an estimate on doing the work.

You are going to get a plethora of suggestions here but doing it right is the only way when dealing with GAS.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:19 PM   #3
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
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A lot of older trailers used black steel piping outside for the main line, with copper going to the inside for each appliance. (The copper starts on the outside of the trailer, but most of the outside piping is steel). They would also have a hose from the tank to the regulator, and then either copper or a hose to the black iron line along the frame of the trailer. Copper is more fragile to a direct hit from a rock or road debris versus black steel.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:09 PM   #4
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA
Pennsylvania
Posts: 231
Propane line

A good practice when it comes to distributing propane on a travel trailer is to run soft copper outside the trailer(underneath), and to make all connections that deliver propane to an appliance, outside(underneath) the trailer. That way, all connections which can possibly leak , are visible and can be checked with soapy water or a combustible gas tester. If you only want propane for your cooktop, I don’t see a problem with running the line inside as long as you are sure the line won’t be damaged by stored supplies, tools, etc.. no inside splices or plugged t- fittings in hidden out of site locations.
To use copper lines you will need a flaring tool and to take some time practicing using it. I suspect there are some good utube videos that would be helpful.
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:43 PM   #5
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Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post

You are going to get a plethora of suggestions here but doing it right is the only way when dealing with GAS.
"doing it right" is completely compatible with people doing it themselves. It is certainly not rocket science and the OP intends to do it better than what the factory offered.

With only one appliance, you could make one run of copper with no splices and slip it into a PEX or EMT raceway that is clamped to the frame with 2 hole straps. I don't see any reason for braided stainless on low pressure gas. Rubber propane hose is also extremely durable, vibration and weather resistant. It also comes in various pre-made lengths. You might find one that matches what you need.
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:45 AM   #6
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Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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How To

https://itstillruns.com/update-propa...r-7617523.html

https://my.rvia.org/NC__Product?id=a...116.1556815527
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:55 PM   #7
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
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That is strange because my 1971 Campster had the original gas lines running on the outside underneath the trailer. They had been cut off before I bought the trailer but the bits and pieces at the tongue end and where it went through the floor in the kitchen cabinet were still there.

I am not installing any propane in my Campster. My cooktop/heater is diesel, with a fuel tank under the stove cabinet and my fridge is 120/12 volt.

But for quick heating of coffee in the morning or tea at night or when I don't want to fire up my inside stove in hot weather I use a Gas One Dual Fuel Mini stove. It is small enough to store away in a drawer and easy to take outside too. I did get a folding camp stove windshield. That also goes into the drawer. The other advantage of this small footprint Mini stove is you can set it on the dining table if you want to do that, it is more stable than a backpacker stove.

It is a great little portable stove and the dual fuel option is handy too. I just loaned it to a friend who was doing a road trip staying in motels as well as tent camping. He fell in love with it for making coffee in the morning. Nice little carry case comes with it.
https://gasone.com/products/gs-800p-...uel-twin-stove

Because I am just making one or two cups of coffee I use a small pot. I found I needed a reducer gas ring trivet to keep small pots balanced. This is the one I bought and it has worked out nicely, it is stainless steel. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Red.../dp/B01FO40K1A
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Old 05-02-2019, 04:51 PM   #8
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KC,

That looks like a very handy little stove. Thanks for the link.
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:24 PM   #9
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Careful not to use a large pot or fry pan on that butane stove ( IE. read the instructions ). My daughter and son-in-law blew up a similar stove. Shards of stove impaled their cooler and shredded their tent. Luckily, they were not near the stove when it exploded.
The stove belonged to me and was cheap ( about $30 ).
I replaced it with this one which was hugely expensive, but has a built in wind shield. It's used by the restaurant industry and highly rated.
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