Pros and cons of a very small 3-way refer

[rabbit]

The B&D Nucool 1.7 fits Mike's assessment. I believe the B&D 2.7 which I have has a conventional compressor and coil in the rear so I doubt that sheathing the thing in a Reflectix jacket will do harm. As to filling up empty space with blocks of blueboard or batt, I'm not going to do that as I haven't seen any home fridge demand the sort of baffled "chimney" which is necessary for an ammonia fridge. And yeh, that's 2.7 cu.ft in the same space taken up by the "Ray Bradbury" ammonia fridge which was bigger on the outside than the in.

I am perfectly at peace with those who indicate they can live with not only an ammonia fridge but a very old and very small one. Apparently I can't.

jack

[Mike Magee]

Originally Posted by Tom Trostel

Here is a link to Don Dayton's project to run his Casita frig on AC from his tow vehicle while on the road. He found this worked better than 12V DC or propane. I don't know what the current draw of a dorm frig is, but this might also work for your application.
Fridge, ac power from tow vehicle - a set on Flickr

I find that intriguing. My 2 way on LP keeps going out when driving. Running it this way on electric (only when driving) appeals to me.

I wonder, though, if it could be done more simply? Like if I plug the inverter into my (500W max) 'cigarette lighter' style outlet, then run a normal AC extension cord from the inverter to the trailer's shore-power plug? My Highlander's outlet quits when the ignition is off, so I could not run the battery down. No solenoid, no switches, no wiring, just 'plug and play'. I think my fridge draws 1.5A at 120v (so 15A at 12v from the car, I think). Anyone know if this would or would not work?