Rebuild of a Trillium Sportsman

[ryan parsons]

well it took all week but they are done. I used walnut frame and baltic birch center panels stained first with a walnut stain, then restained with Spanish oak rubbing stain, then 4 coats of Spar-urethane, sprayed 2 coats and brushed two coats. the first picture is of the pile of machined parts the second is of the doors spread out on tabled saw and bench the third is of a single door. Can hardly wait until I get the Sportsman out of storage to install.

[D Davis]

Wow, this is beautiful! You are so talented. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[DarrylScamp78]

Hello Ryan, Your rehab project is very impressive with amazing design, fit and finish. I built a 78 Scamp from their "kit" and understand the difficulty (still own it). I would like your opinion of the white headliner vinyl you sourced from Tom@trilliumRv. 1) How tough / fragile does the vinyl appear regarding puncture/tear resistance and 2) degree of flexibility to form into the compound curves of the fiberglass. I want to know what adhesive brand/type works for you too. If you have any scrap vinyl I would like to get a small sample. Thanks

[Donna D.]

Wow Darryl, don't want to trash this thread of Ryan's.. but a kit from Scamp? We haven't heard about too many owners (here on FiberglassRV) that "still" own one.

Please start a new thread about your experience! BTW to FiberglassRV we're glad you are here

[ryan parsons]

thanks Darryl
the Ensolite from Tom is not exactly like the material in the old Bolers, the skin is not as resiliant against scratches and punctures, that being said I feel it is a good product. I have put a few punctures in it but they hide themselves quite well< scratches not so good. It is very difficult to simply tear by hand but can be done with brute force.
The compound curves present in these little trailers have to be cut in a fashion to minimise the cuts for ease of installation. It is best to see how the factory did it and copy there initiative. I did it a little different by placing cabinets in the most difficult areas, then piecing those areas with smaller more manageable pieces. Thus making the cabinet work harder but easier for me as I do that kind of wood fitting for a living.
The glue, the dam glue!! I used Hp 15 it was supposed to be heat resistant and the answer to all my fears, but the first few days of 100 degree weather here and the corners started to let go and some of the tighter roof curves, I reapplied where I could get at and it stuck until the next week of 100 degree days, and to my disappointment a few let go again as well as a couple of new spots. I then found out the manufacturer of the glue went bankrupt. I had to try a different type, I put it on a couple of spots and it has worked alright for now but I am waiting for some of those 100 degree days to see if it will hold before i stick the remaining spots up again. ( at this moment those 100 degree days seem so far off from whats outside right now.) The new glue is yellow like contact cement yellow and have taken a chance with color bleed thru this will be take time to tell so I am in no hurry to do to much repair on the remaining spots until I am sure of this new glue, The next glue I am sourcing right now is vinyl roof adhesive for the tops on automobiles I would like to try it on a spot in the Trillium before proceeded with the Yellow spray adhesive. Darryl if you send me your address by way of private message I have one last small piece I will send off to you.

[David Tilston]

I am very interested in what glue works for you. After I repair the roof on my latest Trillium, which I now refer to as Humpty Dumpty. I will be re-installing the Ensolite, or what Tom Young sells, but just on the roof section between the two windows. My hopes of removing the original Enslolite in one piece seem optimistic at this point.

Is color bleed the reason that you did not use contact cement, like Trillium did originally?

[ryan parsons]

David bleed thru was one reason as Toms material is different that the original elephant skin. The main reason is that I have owned 4 Bolers and all had ensolite that did not hold on the surface because of heat, and regular contact cement cannot take heat for long periods of time without letting go. The HP15 I used I had used before on arborite and different paneling jobs and was very satisfied with the products performance, but I now have found it cannot take the heat. I will let everyone know what I find out. Vinyl roof glue for automobile tops is a type of contact cement but it costs about 200.00 a gallon. Hopefully there is no bleed thru with the cheaper stuff and it holds up to heat.

[DarrylScamp78]

May I suggest contacting 3M for the spec details of their contact adhesives. Here is one likely product. 3M™ Rubber & Vinyl 80 Spray Adhesive
This neoprene-based contact adhesive is fast drying and fast bonding.
Featuring exceptional resistance to plasticizing oils, it forms durable, high-strength bonds to vinyl, leather, laminate, wood and most rubber and plastics.
Resists temperatures over 200°F (93°C).
Common Uses: Bonding flexible vinyl
3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive: spray aerosol adhesives, adhesive aerosols, aerosol spray adhesives product information, 3M U.S.:Â 3Mâ„¢ Rubber & Vinyl 80 Spray Adhesive Product Information

[DarrylScamp78]

Ryan, for your rehab needs. I forgot to mention this very attractive marine grade LP cooktop - Force 10 (two or three burner models) is stainless steel and features thermocouple protection and electronic spark ignition.
FORCE 10 - Cooking Without Compromise - Products
I hope this is useful, as I owe you more than one on the vinyl and rubber flooring information.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by DarrylScamp78

May I suggest contacting 3M for the spec details of their contact adhesives. Here is one likely product. 3M™ Rubber & Vinyl 80 Spray Adhesive
This neoprene-based contact adhesive is fast drying and fast bonding.
Featuring exceptional resistance to plasticizing oils, it forms durable, high-strength bonds to vinyl, leather, laminate, wood and most rubber and plastics.
Resists temperatures over 200°F (93°C).
Common Uses: Bonding flexible vinyl
3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive: spray aerosol adhesives, adhesive aerosols, aerosol spray adhesives product information, 3M U.S.:Â*3Mâ„¢ Rubber & Vinyl 80 Spray Adhesive Product Information

I have had good success with reattaching the rat fur and foil insulation on my Scamp using the 3M spray adhesive. It was actually what Scamp suggested i use when I asked. The key is to make sure you use it as directed and under the correct outside temp. If its to hot out or to cold when you use it, it may not work out so well. Spray it and wait a short time before sticking it together. My trailer has been in a number of hot weather situations over the past few years since using it and none of what I have stuck up using the 3M spray has come down.

[ryan parsons]

Thank you Carol, will source out a can and give it a try this spring. Hp 15 also had the same claims. The foam has no problem holding on to the glue, the glue lets go of the fiberglass and is solely stuck to the foam. The rat fur we used on all the houseboats at Waterways in Sicamous would stick to anything with contact cement except fiberglass the glue would sit there until a little pressure would pull it off. The silconized version of the 3m might be the answer I am looking for. Thanks again

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by DarrylScamp78

Ryan, for your rehab needs. I forgot to mention this very attractive marine grade LP cooktop - Force 10 (two or three burner models) is stainless steel and features thermocouple protection and electronic spark ignition.
FORCE 10 - Cooking Without Compromise - Products
I hope this is useful, as I owe you more than one on the vinyl and rubber flooring information.

Wow- $375.00! I'm likin' the thermocouple shutoff that shuts down gas to a burner if the flame goes out, but still...

Is "marine-grade" some kind of designation that requires other special doo-dads that drive the price up?

[ryan parsons]

375 is a good buy! I would have to add 81.00 shipping 12 percent tax and 12 percent difference in money and brokerage fee of 35.00 so total cost to me landed at my door is 581.00 CDN funds not so good for me. Marine grade would have a thermocouple and a higher grade of stainless steel and most likely be lighter, as weight is a big deal in boat quite like these small trailers. Thank you Darryl for the heads up on the cooktop.

[ryan parsons]

Have got all the hardware for the cabinet doors now. mocked one up in kitchen yesterday and took some pictures. first pic is of door with hinges and latch setup. The second is of latch with the three sizes of catches. I had to make up small block to get them to work for my doors as I did not want to inset cabinet doors with dadoes or flush fit. The latch is like old time commercial freezer latch, it is spring loaded, it feels like quality should do the job perfectly.

[ryan parsons]

Now that the weather is getting better I am getting a few of the last items installed. The cabinet doors and latches got installed on the weekend. (pics attached) Sorry about the sideways shot stuff just happens.
Next items to get done - exterior signage, and axle.

[Donna D.]

Ryan, I follow most builds and major rehabs. But I have to say yours is extra special because of the uniqueness of the model. Thank you for letting us follow along!

[Donna D.]

Still following..

[David Tilston]

I'm glad Ryan got this Sportsman, because I would have made it into a utility trailer. I would have closed up all the holes, except that wonderful back door, well all the doors of course, each with a window in them, and the front window, with it's rock guard. Then, I would have put in a two person dinette in the front end. For lunch, and paper work. A desk of sorts. Some place to stack a very small fridge and microwave. Maybe where the closet would be on a 4500, above the wheel well. That's it on the inside.

On the tongue a 2000W Honda generator, modified to run on propane, and a 43 lb forklift tank, with two 6V golf cart batteries.

And most important, a re-engineering of the frame. A utility trailer has more then a 2000 lb axle.

Yup, I dream in Technicolor (tm).

[billiam1969]

Hello, I am interested if you could explain a little more about your interior window wood frames. Did you replace the wood on the interior of the fiberglass body as well? Does the window actually attach to the new interior wood frame you built? When you rebuilt your windows I am guessing you must have also replaced all the weather strips....could you provide where you found the replacement weather stripping? Thanks so much for giving me an additional tutorial...I just bought a 77 trillium 4500 that need TLC and $$$

[ryan parsons]

The window frames are made from Vertical Grain Douglas fir (clear) the size is 1 1/8" x 2 1/4" I stained them, then applied 3 coats Varathane and then made the frames for. Glued each corner and used flush head screws to make sure it stays together. To install My wife held the frame on the inside and I screwed it in place from the outside sandwiching the ensolite fiberglass and seal tape. I put in all of the screws snugly then began to tighten alternating from left to right and up to down until all the screws where tight and some of the seal compound squeezed out.
The weather stripping you can purchase at Vintage Trailer Supply