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Old 02-27-2006, 10:24 AM   #41
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... I saw a cut throught section of one of the trailers, it had fiberglass top / 1/2" plywood / thick white foam insulation / plywood / fiberglass construction....
That's a current-style Bigfoot, not Boler. The insulation is the 1.5" expanded polystyrene foam board which is referred to in the Bigfoot specs.

The post with the cross-section photo may have been lost in the hacking; although I thought it was newer than that, I couldn't find it in a quick search.
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:03 PM   #42
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The post with the cross-section photo may have been lost in the hacking; although I thought it was newer than that, I couldn't find it in a quick search.
It's on my site, Bigfoot Mods (below), under Odds & Ends.
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:02 PM   #43
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There has been some suppliers of the Ensolite added to the "Helpful Links" pages if you want to pursue that type of liner. I seem to remember a thread before the site was hacked about a few people who replaced thier Ensolite liners.
Donna might be some help there, Where are you Donna?
Here's the link from the Helpful-Links page to Ensolite

Sorry, can't help with anything from the pre-hack, although there MAY be something in the Legacy Posts...anyone looking will just have to do a bit of searching.

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Old 02-28-2006, 08:14 AM   #44
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Do you think there would be an added benefit if a boler owner were to double-up on the layer of ensolite? Alec
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:49 AM   #45
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While I am not convinced that Reflectix would double in effectiveness with double layers, I am confident that foam insulation such as Ensolite would. There would be an additional advantage if the seams were not aligned of better covering imperfect spots.

One concern would be finishing around windows: in my Boler, the inner window flanges clamp onto the trailer wall through the insulation, so adding a layer would mean a double layer of foam to clamp onto (maybe just longer screws?), and possibly an awkward fit, or some other trim method. In my B1700, the low-density soft foam with very soft "pebbled" surface is used, rather than the much denser and stiffer (foam rubber?) Ensolite, so the bulging around windows would be significant.

The other area of detail concern would be behind cabinets... the second layer would need to stop at cabinet mountings (another trim issue), or require refitting of the cabinets.

About the Bigfoot photo - yes, Bill, it was your site to which I was referring. I still can't find the topic in which you first mentioned this photo, so perhaps we lost it. Thanks for an excellent site.
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Old 02-28-2006, 10:05 AM   #46
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The fiberglass shell is the largest surface area and it appears you already have some insulation there. I'd consider the two other areas of heat loss. The first being the windows. Perhaps heavier insulated window coverings are in order. The second is the floor. If your trailer has the wood-exposed-to-the-pavement-floor, add insulation there. Someone (pre-hac) had glued blue styrofoam (or was it pink?) to the entire floor area (on the bottom outside) with success in insulating that area.
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:05 PM   #47
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I'd consider the two other areas of heat loss. The first being the windows. Perhaps heavier insulated window coverings are in order.
This is a great idea, with some caveats.

If your insulated blinds aren't fitted air tight, interior air will convect down across the window. Since the insulation allows the window to cool more than before, you can end up with a little condensation factory, worse off than before.

The solution is to put those air-tight insulated covers on all but two windows. These you would crack open for ventilation, say at opposite ends or sides of the trailer. Allow as much inside air to contact these windows as possible. This warms the glass and frame, and with the ventilation, reduces condensation to as low as it's going to get in that particular trailer.

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The second is the floor...add insulation there.
Exactly right. That airspace under the trailer, with any breeze at all, can cool the floor to near-ambient temperature. Brrrrr, wear socks.
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Old 03-01-2006, 05:40 PM   #48
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Hello

I have been considering installing an insulating cacoon on my Compact II. I found a product called PRODEX which looks promising. Instead of air for insulation it uses foam with reflective film on each side. The product is 1/4 inch thick but the company rates it at 14.5 r value which is equivelant to 6 inches of fiberglass insulation. I was considering reflectex but this product seems to be a better choice. I will check it out and keep you updated or you can check it out at http://www.barnworld.com.

Thank you
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:36 AM   #49
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Looks like a good product. However to take it a step further, how and what kind of bonding agent would you consider that would not give off toxic fumes later or not keep it stuck to the shell: and what would you cover the reflective surface with on the inside and waht bonding agent would be needed???
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:03 PM   #50
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Looks like a good product. However to take it a step further, how and what kind of bonding agent would you consider that would not give off toxic fumes later or not keep it stuck to the shell: and what would you cover the reflective surface with on the inside and waht bonding agent would be needed???
is there a problem using the run of the mill spray adhesive fouind at home depot? given enough time to dry and air out, i dont see it as a hazard. do you?
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:39 PM   #51
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(Con @ Mar 2 2006, 08:36 AM)

Looks like a good product. However to take it a step further, how and what kind of bonding agent would you consider that would not give off toxic fumes later or not keep it stuck to the shell: and what would you cover the reflective surface with on the inside and waht bonding agent would be needed???
The liquid 'glue' that Scamp uses for their rat fur would work quite well, and give off no toxic fumes. One could let the insualtion set up, then again use the same glue to put on a layer of 'rat fur'.
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:45 PM   #52
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The liquid 'glue' that Scamp uses for their rat fur would work quite well, and give off no toxic fumes. One could let the insualtion set up, then again use the same glue to put on a layer of 'rat fur'.
what is this rat fur? i spoke with someone at scamp, who said they put some marine fabric over the insulation. is this the "rat fur"?
any pictures?

i have been shopping for the ensolite, and the other silver bubble wrap at lowes. ensolite is some expensive stuff!
at this point i am leaning toward the silver rolls at lowes, and some {?} to cover it.
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:51 PM   #53
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I guess it is a word of caution it to read and research the products you are going to use.

All plastics, as the temperature rises gives off gases. Some more toxic than others.
For example, the polyethelene film they have on new car doors when you buy them. Years ago I bought a new vechile and did not remove the plastic right away. We had some real hot days and when I opened the door the fumes just about knocked me down. It is a proven fact that plastic sheeting gives off a toxic gas. Another example is Cup-of-Noodles in styrofoam cups when you neuc them in a microwave. Proven fact that they give of a toxic gas. There was a huge mess here in Canada a number of years ago when the Government was helping people pay for expanded foam insulation in thier houses. People started getting sick and it was finally traced down to the formaldihide gases come from the foam. Cost lots of money to remove it. These are just a few examples

I can speak with authority on this from experience. Years ago I got quite sick with numbnious in my fingers and toes and a prickly feeling in both areas. My doctors finally traced it down to chemical toxic posioning. There was a period of time there where I had been working on many projects using Ethelene di-choride, Keytone Acetone, Plexiglas Polymer adhesive. Per-chlorethylene, Acetone, Lacquer Thinners just to name a few. I had used most of the chemicals outside in what I thought was well ventilated, not the case though. They built up in my system till it finally reacted. I had to stay away from any chemicals products for months. It was not fun so I just don't want anyone esle to go through it. Today I am much more cautious above how I use stuff.

My advice, research, research and research again before you use any plastics, adhesives etc.
Its your health!
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:02 PM   #54
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what is this rat fur? i spoke with someone at scamp, who said they put some marine fabric over the insulation. is this the "rat fur"?
any pictures?

i have been shopping for the ensolite, and the other silver bubble wrap at lowes. ensolite is some expensive stuff!
at this point i am leaning toward the silver rolls at lowes, and some {?} to cover it.
Rat fur is the marine fabric Scamp was refering to. I got the impression that they don't like that term (rat fur).
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:05 PM   #55
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...i have been shopping for the ensolite, and the other silver bubble wrap at lowes. ensolite is some expensive stuff!
When I spoke to someone at the Scamp factory last year about materials for my Boler, he explained that the Reflectix which they use is expensive compared to other brands of "silver bubble wrap" more cheaply available at home centers, but they used it to avoid problems with the layers peeling apart. Anyone considering use of this type of product might consider Scamp's experience.
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:08 PM   #56
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Rat fur is the marine fabric Scamp was refering to. I got the impression that they don't like that term (rat fur).
On the other hand, the Scamp person I talked to used the term "rat fur", without any prompting from me. This was relatively new to me, since I had known short-pile fabric like this in automotive applications as "mouse fur" (it is usually grey, which may be one factor in the choice of name). The difference may be length of pile, or it may be that here in Alberta we don't have rats, only mice...
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:19 PM   #57
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Looks like a good product. However to take it a step further, how and what kind of bonding agent would you consider that would not give off toxic fumes later or not keep it stuck to the shell: and what would you cover the reflective surface with on the inside and waht bonding agent would be needed???
Con
you brought up good questions and we certainly don't want to use anything that will cause us to not wake up on a campout. I have not looked that far into it but will consider your precautions as I proceed. At this point I plan to lay a fiberglass inner wall over whatever I use inside. I plan to install conduit and j-box for all wiring within the wall as well as fastening hardware for the fixtures and furniture.

Thank You
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:16 PM   #58
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WOW! Darrel, that sound like a major project. Is it really worth adding an FG liner? Maybe I am off track as I don't know what the Compact looks like inside. How about posting a few pics?
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:55 AM   #59
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Con,
The interior of my Compact Jr. is covered with beige vinyl that has a yellow open-cell foam backing about 1/4" thick. I doubt it provides much insulation, but it stops all condensation. I think the Compact II had the same interior wall covering. Darrel rescued his trailer in very poor condition and may only have bare fiberglass now. Below is a link to a picture of my table and you can see the wall covering behind it. Tom Trostel

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?...0373&p=70959854
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Old 03-03-2006, 09:23 AM   #60
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Con,
The interior of my Compact Jr. is covered with beige vinyl that has a yellow open-cell foam backing about 1/4" thick. I doubt it provides much insulation, but it stops all condensation. I think the Compact II had the same interior wall covering. Darrel rescued his trailer in very poor condition and may only have bare fiberglass now. Below is a link to a picture of my table and you can see the wall covering behind it. Tom Trostel

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?...0373&p=70959854
could you please post more detailed pics of the vinyl? especially at the seams.
thank you!
otherwise, please pm them to me.
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