Ben
My 93 B13.5' lil
Bigfoot entrance door was like yours. is there a shim on the threshold on the strike side? To raise the door and screen as they close (put there at the factory because they hung the door jamb out of square .)
I have a groove, gouged in the threshold where the screen frame on the strike side hit before it was lifted by the shim.
Do you have a framing square ? If held in the top corner left or right you can see how far the jamb is out of square. Hold the square on the top of the door, to see if it is out of square. You can measure a rectangle to see if it is square corner to corner to see if the distances are the same
I have several framing squares because I am a cabinet and house door maker, I have made many raised panel oak doors.
To remove the door jamb, requires removing the cabinet next to the entrance, to get to the screws that hold the jamb to the shell. You can see the screws on the left side as you face the opening from inside the trailer. To remove the door just requires, unscrewing the 4 hinge butts on the right side of the door. the hinge stays attached to the jamb.
I took my door apart, the wood structure in the bottom of the door, was rotten, up more than a foot. You can't easily tell if your door is rotten, without taking it apart.
If I say ALL
Bigfoot doors wooden parts, the age of our trailers are rotten, is probably 90+ % true.
I did not try to square the door jamb. I would want to totally remove it to see how it is set. I assumed the threshold was set flush on the floor; to bring your door to square with the jamb, the jamb header and the jamb legs at the top need to be moved toward the hinge side, the threshold would stay fixed. Some of the wooden blocking glued to the
fiberglass shell on the hinge side may need to be cut away at the top say 1/2" tapered down to nothing at the bottom.
The door has to be hinged to the jamb to watch how the door adjusts parallel to the header as it is moved left to right (facing the door from outside.) I think Bigfoot put the jambs in the trailer without the door in place, some installers set the jambs square; I think yours and mine were set by a beginner.
I took my door off the trailer. I put it on a couple of saw horses.
I removed the window; I removed the screws in the corners holding the stile sides to the top and bottom rails.
unscrewed the door lock and removed it.
The exterior and interior faces were once glued to a foam core, surrounded by a wood frame. the pieces just lift apart, glue not holding. The stiles were rotten up 16"s the bottom rail was wet mush.
Re-cutting the aluminum door frame miters; on the strike side cut off 1/8" from short point to nothing and on the hinge side on the long point at the top. the miters at the bottom of the door, strike side on the long point, hinge side the short point.
I recut the mitered corners of the aluminum door frame to match an out of square template I made of the out of square jamb. The new wooden frame inside the aluminum frame is also cut out of square. I drilled 1/4" holes in the bottom aluminum rail to let accumulated water out.
The aluminum can be cut with a carbide tipped miter saw blade.
Do you have a screen door ? If it fits like the door, same tech.
I recut the miters on the screen door, put in new screen. Had to move the screen up on its hinges.
The corners on the aluminum jamb are called "Faux corners" (plastic corners) I know a source for those if you want.
My door works very well.
at the top bar -search- type in Bigfoot; hundreds of posts will come up.
You probably need a new
axle. I just replaced mine.
You can contact me direct if you wish.
Later Kenny
1978 Trillium 1300
. Make sure you check the plumb on the latch side when your doing your final assembly, ours moved a bit resulting in a slight bulge on the latch side. Had to take the aluminum frame off and plane it down to get it straight. 
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