removing 12 volts from a propane fridge. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-11-2014, 04:08 PM   #1
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Name: Steve
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removing 12 volts from a propane fridge.

I have a 2011 Casita 17 with a 4 cubic fridge. Its a wonderful appliance and is push button convenient. But'......when it runs on propane, it requires power from the battery for the controls. If nothing else is using 12 volt power, the fridge alone will discharge the battery more than 50 % in a week. I have a solar panel and a generator that I hate using(generator). I rarely plug in and mostly boondocks. Has anyone converted a perfectly good totally automatic fridge to be Non-automatic and not have a need for a battery, and run simply on propane?
I know some folks may think I'm nuts and I not asking for comments on my motives. I'm just wondering if anyone on this forum knows of this conversion being done.
Thanks
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:17 PM   #2
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Isn't there a switch to control that already?
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:01 PM   #3
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You would need to get a refrigerator with a pilot light instead of the electronic ignition you have now. Maybe a second battery would get you the result you are seeking,
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Old 05-16-2014, 07:31 AM   #4
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I don't think it is possible.

Some refrigerators have a heater around the door seal to prevent condensation/mold. You would be able to turn that feature off. The switch is sometimes hard to find but would be inside the refrigerator.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:24 AM   #5
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Wow, seems like a lot of draw for an appliance running primarily off another source. Also, what other loads do you have that your solar setup can’t keep up with that draw anyway? Maybe upgrade your solar system a little to take care of the draw? Sorry I do not know anything about propane refrigerators, I snatched mine out in favor of a straight 120v fridge for now until I can afford a straight 12v and solar system to run it when boondocking. Gas is for cooking, outside of the trailer for me.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:29 AM   #6
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I agree with Tim. I won't worry about electrical loads for about her. 4 billion years. The sun is reliable. Propane on the other hand runs out and is a recurring expense.

Does anyone want to buy a two way Americana fridge ? I would gladly swap it for a compressor type DC one.

I am thinking about a single plate induction cooker also for days I am plugged in.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:56 AM   #7
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propane fridge

The last time I was in Glacier NP in June, it rained and/or was cloudy for 7 days straight. I stay in places where there is no place to plug in and while I have a generator, I do not enjoy using it. I don't care how efficient a DC fridge is, it won't work for me. A good DC fridge will discharge your battery if you have a few cloudy days even with solar. Here at home I have a 5040 watt array. On a sunny day it produces 4000 to 5000 watts at mid day . on a cloudy day 300 to 600 watts. I live in northern PA not Arizona. If you lived and traveled in Arizona where the sun shines constantly, a DC fridge and solar might work fine. I rarely go there. I go North.
A propane fridge works for me.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:13 AM   #8
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Understood, I am sure propane refrigerators have a place and certainly have worked well for a lot of folks for a long time. Good luck with your quest!
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:33 AM   #9
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Although going for 7 days with it on propane until you hit 50% is way better than running it on DC I am surprised by that number. What does the manual on the fridge suggest it uses in the way of power amps?

Are you also using your water pump during that time or do you have any detectors that may be also eating up a little bit of power?

I have a much older 3 way fridge with little in the way of electronics so its power usage isn't really an issue.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:43 AM   #10
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Hi Steve, here's what I know. When we started shopping for a new trailer 5 years ago the first one we looked at had a 3 way 3 cubic foot Dometic fridge. A little research showed it had a control board that used about 1/2 amp. I believe among other things they boost the thermocouple voltage to the safety valve. Apparently most 3 ways now have these boards. It's the price you pay for having the controls inside. If the control board on your fridge operates the safety valve then the fridge wont run with out it. To the best of my knowledge only low end fridges like the Dometic 2193 run the safety valve directly off the thermocouple. The voltages are so small that wire and contact resistance is a big issue, hence the controls at the back. Raz
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:35 AM   #11
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In my Trillium 4500 trailers, most have a Dommetic RM36E. This is a 2.7 cu. ft. model. The controls are on the inside, at the bottom. They are mechanically connected to the back of the fridge through metal rods. The RM36E uses no electricity when operating on propane.

The chart at this link:
http://www.thetford.com/Portals/0/PD...er_rev4-13.pdf
Is intended to help you convert from an old fridge to a new one. No reason you could not use it to go the other way. No guarantee that what they call an old fridge does not use electricity, but it is a place to start.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:30 AM   #12
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Setting the advisability aside, a 12v line has to go to it from somewhere, presumably originating at the DC panel. If you have an extra fuse location, split it out and pull the fuse when you don't want it. Or finagle as switch in the line somewhere.
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