Replacing an Axle - leading arm to trailing arm

[Raya]

Pete,

I wasn't very clear above, I realize.

What I was asking about wasn't the (original) axle's rating, but about factors to consider when getting a new axle and deciding how much weight to have it "rubbered" for. I was musing on whether or not tongue weight would "shift" back onto the axle at any time - say if one was going up a steep, bumpy hill.

I had thought that it might (and one would thus want to add it to the overall "sprung" weight in making calculations), but apparently it does not.

Just one of those "physics-al" illusions, I guess

Raya

[jeff isaacson]

hey Roy, got to tell ya' this info. is invaluable..you could market it! As you know my 1970 ECO is very similar in all aspects to the early Bolers. And yes it is exhibiting all the classic signs of axle fatigue. One I most enjoy is the low-rider effect, and with My age getting in and out is very EZ! Non the less its time to replace, I've been putting this off for some 16 years now. I have to admit the little bugger rides well and hasn't gotten considerably worse since I purchased it. Yes there is some uneven tire wear, and as with all trailers you have to fasten and batten while traveling. The most notable items that bounced around are the Coleman stove grates, used to fly right off ! You get used to it. What else can I say? But its time. And for YourS !

[Roy in TO]

One I most enjoy is the low-rider effect, and with My age getting in and out is very EZ!

You are welcome Jeff,

If you hold off a bit, someone here may be following my work with a 22.5 degree up. That should be a few inches lower than mine. Switching to the Carlisle mounted ST145R12 lowered me about an inch too. Tinker around enough and you might be able to keep that low rider look.

BTW your ECO may be a lot closer to the bolers than you think. I noticed you have it listed as a 1970+. I have not been able to track down all the info yet, but I postulate the ECO was supposed to be one of the boler American plants in 1972. I've read your bit about hot tubs in the boler history thread. From what I've gathered the boler American people tracked down companies that were alreading working with fiberglass to make trailers for them.

[JenPB]

Wow...that's a LOT more involved than my simple leaf replacement completed this evening. Still, I'm proud to have managed. Someday, I'll be brave enough to tackle welding...maybe.

[Roy in TO]

We just picked up the trailer today from winter storage. The Kanadiann May "Two Four" weekend being the unofficial start of summer, camping and working on the trailer.

I was asked earlier about final heights. Hope These Help:

Height to step at door 10"
To bottom of frame 14"
(Add 3" for hitch = 17")
Road clearance to bottom of axle 8"

[Roy in TO]

I just compared these to the original specs in the brochure.

Height was listed at 6' 11"
Head room 6' 1"
That leaves 10" exactly the height of the step to my floor.

Looks like my mod flipping the axle restored the height back to the original specs!

[DannyH]

Thanks for all the information roy. When you said earlier that your final tire is a ST 145/R12, is this the tire that you are currently using? If so, isn't this a 12" tire, not the typical 13" size?

[Roy in TO]

you said earlier that your final tire is a ST 145/R12, is this the tire that you are currently using? If so, isn't this a 12" tire, not the typical 13" size?

Thanks Danny,

The final and current tire is a stock Carlisle ST 145/R12 premounted on a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern rim. They were on sale at Princess Auto for under a $100 CDN ea.

It is a 12" tire, but total outside diameter was slightly smaller than original 6.00x13. The next closest Trailer tire on a 13" rim was just a little too big for my liking and cost as much for the tire alone even more if you include mounting etc.

The size difference between all 3 tires are shown standing on end below. The final ST 145/R12 is in the forground, the original 6.00-13 in the middle and its recommended replacement the ST175/80R13 is in the rear. A tape measure is shown for comparison purposes.

[Phillip]

3 thoughts come to mind.
Since the kitchen floor is 3" lower than the bottom of the frame you would have to raise the trailer a little too high to get everything to work under the trailer with a straight axle.
If you used a "drop" axle (the spindles are higher than the axle), ground clearance would be in the 4-6" range.
3rd reason is that the frame ends at the door. One may not have enough room for shackles unless you are using really short springs.

1 question Roy.. Is there a reason you didnt have bolt on brackets welded onto the trailer for mounting the new axle, instead of welding it back ??

I'm having a #9 w/brakes put on my Casita next week, But in addition I'm planning on having brackets that can be welded on then the axle can be bolted on so that if for some reason it needs a axle it would be much easier for a do it yourself job...is my line of thinking

[Roy in TO]

1 question Roy.. Is there a reason you didnt have bolt on brackets welded onto the trailer for mounting the new axle, instead of welding it back ??

I did have the bolt on brackets welded onto the trailer. If you order a new axle with the bracket option, the brackets are bolted onto the axle at the factory. If you look closely at the pictures in post # 5 of this thread, you can see them. It helps to know what you are looking for because they are all black like everything else.

As far as I am concerned the brackets are good insurance if one ever has to replace an axle again, or worse yet, the frame.

[Phillip]

I did have the bolt on brackets welded onto the trailer. If you order a new axle with the bracket option, the brackets are bolted onto the axle at the factory. If you look closely at the pictures in post # 5 of this thread, you can see them. It helps to know what you are looking for because they are all black like everything else.

As far as I am concerned the brackets are good insurance if one ever has to replace an axle again, or worse yet, the frame.

cool ... I misunderstood thanks..

[Roy in TO]

Actually it was a good catch Phillip. I reread my post and I didn't mention the brackets in the specs or any where else. Thanks for pointing it out.

On second read I did mention it. Dexter or Cerka calls the brackets the "hanger kit". Sorry I just copied the specs off the original order or final bill.

[ursulap]

I finally got a search to work!!!!

We are in the process of rebuilding our frame from scratch, which means the axle too!!! WE are currently debating the torsion arm versus leaf spring options. Since we can modify the frame the way we need to to make the axle work its best. Is it a big adjustment to make it a trailing arm axle vs using leaf springs?

Also has anyone taken their little trailer for a test drive/camp with leaf springs?

Things are slowly trudging away

Cheers

Ursula

[Raya]

I think torsion axles are generally considered to be a "step up" from leaf springs, aren't they? Better damping, if I understand correctly (unless one puts shock absorbers on the leaf suspension).

Raya

[Donna D.]

Yes, that's my understanding too Raya. Leaf spring require shock absorbers to work similar to torsion axles... which have the "shock absorber" has built in due to the rubber.

[DannyH]

Roy, I'm about to order an axle similar to yours and have a question. The dimension that they require for the mounting bracket is to the outside of the frame, this also sets the outside edge of the angle that comes with the axle. My question is the width of the angle on the axle. I'm concerned that they have a dimension of 1 1/4" from the outer edge to the centerline of the supporting bolt. If this is the centerline of the horizontal part of the angle, then it must be around 2 1/2" wide (my assumption). My scamp has a main tubular frame width of 1 1/2". The way I see it, the vertical part of the angle will extend 1" past the inside of my trailer frame edge, which will run into the dropped floor side, making for much cutting and modification. If the axle bracket is only 1 1/2" wide, it should slide in without a problem. If the axle bracket is wider than 1 ½”, I will adjust the outside edge dimension so that the inside vertical part will line up with the inside face of the trailer frame. I hope this makes sense.



Thanks
Dan

[DannyH]

Never mind, I found the manufactures site and a detailed drawing of the bracket.

[Roy in TO]

If the axle bracket is wider than 1 ½", I will adjust the outside edge dimension so that the inside vertical part will line up with the inside face of the trailer frame.

That's essentially what I did.
Since you found the diagrams on Dexter, I'm posting this for others that might have the same question. The mounting bracket is 2" wide and add 1/4" for the side mount hanger. That makes each bracket 3/4" wider than your frame. Total width (outside of brackets)will be 1.5" wider than the outside of your frame.

Now if you are doing it like me "switching from leading to trailing" don't forget to allow for the height of your dropped floor. Dexter does make a 3" high snowmobile bracket but that was just not enough clearance beneath the floor to allow for the bend in the axle tube for camber.

[kgingeri]

Roy, do could you PM me the original two measurement graphics from your forth post here? I've saved images from the post but they're not very clear. :v/

Thx,
Karl :v)