Replacing my Dometic 2400 2-way fridge

[V'sGlassSleeper]

My 30 year-old Dometic 2400 2-way fridge seems to have given up the ghost. It will not power on at all. Dometic has discontinued the closest sized replacement size so I am looking at 3 other brands that are closer in size.

Has anyone replaced their 2-way with a 3-way? Would I need a dedicated DC circuit for the fridge or could it share a 15A DC circuit with the water heater (water heater is propane/electric but uses DC for ignition if on propane) or something else?

Does anyone have experience with any of the brands below (they are within $195 of each other in terms of difference in price between highest and lowest cost).

The 3 current units that are closest in size are:
The Norcold N3104 AGL 3-way: https://www.amazon.com/NORCOLD-INC-N.../dp/B019592GYO

The Unique UGP-3BSM 3-way: https://bensdiscountsupply.com/uniqu...ugp-3-b-black/

The Smad 3-way: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Smad-3-5-cu....c100005.m1851

Thanks for any experienced feedback!

[Glenn Baglo]

Save your money and stick with 2-way AC/propane fridges.
12V is the least efficient, least effective way to cool a fridge.

[V'sGlassSleeper]

Thanks, Glenn! A mobile mechanic just said what you did - that the 3-way models are not worth it because DC will burn through batteries and bring them to a premature death. I will stick to the 2-way versions instead. It will make the install easier - like for like.

[Steve Hammel]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Save your money and stick with 2-way AC/propane fridges.
12V is the least efficient, least effective way to cool a fridge.

Unless it is a 12v "compressor" refrigerator. If you get one of those you will never go back to propane. They are best if you have some solar capacity preferably above 100 watts and quality batteries. You can't beat the quick cool down, running safely while you are driving, and you don't need to worry about leveling your rig. You should never use propane while traveling.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

You should never use propane while traveling.

You shouldn't have a propane or any flame, while traveling through some tunnels, on ferries or while fueling. There are no laws against traveling with the fridge on propane, but there are laws about almost everything else.

[Steve Hammel]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

You shouldn't have a propane or any flame, while traveling through some tunnels, on ferries or while fueling. There are no laws against traveling with the fridge on propane, but there are laws about almost everything else.

No reason to even worry about it with a 12v compressor fridge. I just ordered my 4th one to replace the 3way fridge in my Oxygen. The cost is approximately the same as a 2 way or 3 way but the cooling is FAR superior.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

No reason to even worry about it with a 12v compressor fridge. I just ordered my 4th one to replace the 3way fridge in my Oxygen. The cost is approximately the same as a 2 way or 3 way but the cooling is FAR superior.

Need to also consider the cost of batteries, solar, etc. to run the fridge.

[V'sGlassSleeper]

Interesting, Steve. I had seen a few Solar/DC/AC units out there and like the idea, but can you point me in the direction of a brand that you like so I can do some more research?


I am considering removing 2 drawers to go with a 5.4 cu foot fridge that has a separate freezer unit, so about 46" tall, basically would like to go with a larger unit than the original 4 cu foot, but we'll see what unfolds.


So, basically, to avoid burning out the batteries, the solar/DC fridge is using roof-mounted solar panels while driving and then switch to AC if I have shore power where I am camping, otherwise will 100W Renogy panels work or would I need to upgrade to higher wattage to power the fridge? Does the fridge hook up directly to the solar panels or does it go through the batteries?

[Steve Hammel]

Originally Posted by V'sGlassSleeper

Interesting, Steve. I had seen a few Solar/DC/AC units out there and like the idea, but can you point me in the direction of a brand that you like so I can do some more research?


I am considering removing 2 drawers to go with a 5.4 cu foot fridge that has a separate freezer unit, so about 46" tall, basically would like to go with a larger unit than the original 4 cu foot, but we'll see what unfolds.


So, basically, to avoid burning out the batteries, the solar/DC fridge is using roof-mounted solar panels while driving and then switch to AC if I have shore power where I am camping, otherwise will 100W Renogy panels work or would I need to upgrade to higher wattage to power the fridge? Does the fridge hook up directly to the solar panels or does it go through the batteries?

Basically all solar does is keep your batteries charged. It does offer a little real time 12v but that's not the point. You need good quality batteries for a good system. I run twin 6 volt golf cart batteries at about $110 each from Costco. I picked up a 120 watt solar panel off ebay for $118 along with a decent MPPT regulator for $40. My most recent fridge is a 2.7 cu ft Norcold I picked up for $667 after a bit of looking. Not cheap but seriously a lot better system.

[Steve Hammel]

I must warn you though do not get conned into an absorption fridge or a 110v with an invertor. It must be a 12v/24v specific compressor refrigerator. As far as your size requirements I can't comment except for the fact many of the larger sizes use the same compressor. You do have more space to cool so obviously will need a bit more energy to operate.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

Unless it is a 12v "compressor" refrigerator. If you get one of those you will never go back to propane. ...

Well, yes and no...

I generally agree with your assessment of the advantages of a Danfoss type compressor fridge. But like most everything in life.. its not that simple.

I have been doing a lot of testing with a Indel B 31A "Truck Fridge". You have already covered the pros, so let me concentrate on the cons.

It is only about 1/4 the storage capacity of my Dometic RM2410 that is in my Scamp. For the most part, thats big enough for food but not for the beer

My Dometic RM2410 can run for a month on a single propane tank, without using even one watt of electric power. Run out of electric with the Indel B and the food goes bad.

The built in Dometic fridge is convenient. The Indel B is rather heavy and takes up considerable space. It might be too heavy for one person to move around, esp. when full of food. There is no good place for it in my Scamp so I keep it in the tow vehicle quite a bit, running an extension cord from the tug when I have shore power - a hassle. And if I don't have shore power, I have to put it in the camper to run off the house battery. And many of these Danfoss type fridges do not even have a 120 VAC option.

The power consumption of the Indel B fridge varies quite a bit. It could be as low as 200 watts in 24 hours, under ideal conditions. But chilling drinks that start at room temperature will more than double that, and using it as freezer in a room temp environment will up the power draw to almost 600 watts in 24 hours (the max safe discharge for a 100 AH battery). If you dont get good sun from your solar, and / or other things like a furnace or fan take a lot of your power budget, the fridge can easily put you over the maximum for a single 12 volt battery before you can recharge (even a 125 AH Group 31).

--- I was hoping to use the Indel B fridge as my primary cold food storage device but what I found that was often, the larger built-in fridge that required no electric was the better choice. I do think that the "Truck Fridge" type of unit has it's place and is a good back-up, for example when you can not level the camper. But the propane fridge has advantages also, and sometimes it is the better tool for the job.

[Steve Hammel]

Your fridge will be 12v all the time. I get a solid 2-3 days off a full battery charge without charging. With solar you should never run out. Great for boondocking on BLM land in the Southwest where you have no hookups. I feel bad for those poor souls who have to go to town to fill their propane tanks every few days to keep their food cold. If/When you are connected to shore power all you'll be doing is maintaining your battery charge. You'll want to switch to LED lights and take all the other energy saving steps you can come up with.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

Your fridge will be 12v all the time. I get a solid 2-3 days off a full battery charge without charging. With solar you should never run out. ..

... is there no chance of 4-5 days without sun? Well maybe not where you are.. but here it is different.

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

... I feel bad for those poor souls who have to go to town to fill their propane tanks every few days to keep their food cold. ...

So do I, since the propane fridge should run a month or so on a single tank.

Whatever the energy source for your fridge is, if it runs out, the fridge is dead in the water.

The bigger problem is with those absorption fridges that have a control board that requires constant power. How sad it is when the battery goes low and the fridge dies, even though you have enough propane to run it for weeks. That is why I think if you have a absorption fridge, it should be of a type that has manual controls and does not require any electric power.

[Steve Hammel]

Once again all I can comment on is my own personal experience. My Oxygen has a 1.8 cu ft fridge and is pretty useless. It takes all day to cool and I travel quite a bit. After looking through several RV grave yards and seeing how many burn from people leaving the propane on while traveling I will never travel with my fridge on propane. Admittedly this has also spooked me about any propane appliance that I don't have direct control over. My main points about the 12v fridge are zero cost after install and the lack of having to be perfectly level. Also the 2.7 that I am installing fits in the same space as the 1.8 that I am taking out. I know Trillium has switched to all 12v fridges in their rigs and I believe Lil Snoozy also has 12v fridges. The trend is coming, probably not for everybody but they shouldn't be dismissed outright.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

I feel bad for those poor souls who have to go to town to fill their propane tanks every few days to keep their food cold.

How about posting an argument instead of nonsense?

[V'sGlassSleeper]

Thank you, Steve. I am all switched out to LED already and was planning to buy 2 Duracell 6V golf batteries at Sam's Club (they are the best-rated ones I could find for a reasonable price - the really high-rated ones will not fit the budget this year). I will definitely look into what's available and appreciate the input.

These are the solar-powered DC fridges I could find that have a separate freezer, but they are all too tall for the 46" space we have: https://bensdiscountsupply.com/uniqu...red-dc-fridge/

https://www.amazon.com/Smad-Apartmen...n%3A3515402011

https://bensdiscountsupply.com/uniqu...-260l1w-white/


We really need more than the 4 cu foot size we had (we have dietary restrictions so there are parts of the U.S. in which we'd likely find very little we could eat). So, as much as the solar/DC options sounds appealing and less hassle than absorption fridges, we may not have the option of solar/DC for the size we need. I was impressed that the 30 year-old Dometic that was in my camper lasted as long as it did.

[Steve Hammel]

Okay my use of the term "every 2 or 3 days" is somewhat of an exaggerated measure, however the point is still valid in that you will consume propane that needs to be replenished whereas with solar and a 12v compressor fridge you will not need to replenish anything.

[CarlD]

I am planning on a compressor fridge for my Lil Hauley buildout. My electrical system will be solar with a LFP battery and a 2000 watt inverter generator. Here are a few fridge sources I have found.



https://www.westmarine.com/marine-refrigerators
I like these guys because they will ship to a store and you can pick it up and they will handle warranty issues if you get the extend warranty. I think these are Indel Webasto fridges



https://www.spheralsolar.com/product...-and-freezers/


https://www.truckfridge.com/truckfridge-models/
These are Indel Webasto fridges



Isotherm Refrigerators
I think Indel Webasto manufactures a lot of the Secop compressor fridges.

[CarlD]

One additional thought regarding absorption fridges. I would get a 3 way as you can run off 12 volt while driving and not destroy your battery. You should have a DC-DC converter (minimum 10 amp) between the TV and trailer to maintain battery charge AND run the fridge.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

Okay my use of the term "every 2 or 3 days" is somewhat of an exaggerated measure...

Well, ten percent of reality is quite an exaggeration.

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

... with solar and a 12v compressor fridge you will not need to replenish anything.

Except for replacing your food that spoils when the sun don't shine.

But as I said, you point out all the advantages and there are many. Thats why I bought one. I especially like that you dont have to level the camper to keep food cold. But there are some other considerations and things to think about, and some of those I added to the discussion. Here is another thought...

Originally Posted by CarlD

I am planning on a compressor fridge for my Lil Hauley buildout. My electrical system will be solar with a LFP battery and a 2000 watt inverter generator. ...

Now this is a good plan if you are going to use only a DC fridge.... A good solar system to run the smaller Danfoss type DC fridge, which might be plenty 90-95% of the time, and a generator as a back-up for those few times when solar is not enough.

And while on the road, a good charge line and/or mobile solar. Or move the fridge to the tug where it can run off with no problem and no draw on the camper's battery.