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10-25-2010, 10:04 AM
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#1
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Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 1983 13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 85
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Replacing the rectangle aluminum windows with modern rounded corner windows
Hi all, after a weekend of replacing the aft floor I am starting to think about replacing the rectangular windows in our 83 Scamp with the newer rounded corners windows. Has anyone done this without fiberglass work? It is getting a bit cold around here to have epoxy cure even using the fast hardeners.
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10-25-2010, 11:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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I hear you on that, Evergreen. I'm tabbing in my cabinets/furniture, and fortunately I'm a bit south of you, but I've still got an eye on the weather.
I can't really think of any "non-cheesy" way to downsize to the radius-cornered windows without fiberlgassing. I know, now you are probably thinking "Well why answer then, since I asked for comments from people who have done it another way?" I was just thinking though, that in all the threads I've read or seen on the subject, I don't think I've ever seen another good way done.
Any way you could get everything all planned out, sanded, prepped, and etc. and then for the clean-but-needs-warm actual fiberglassing get your trailer into a heated garage for a day or so?
Another idea might be to build a small "mini-room" outside the trailer using plastic and maybe some insulation, and then heat the trailer plus this "room" just enough so that you can get the glass work done -- since you don't need heat for any of the prepping stages. Clear plastic would probably make good use of a sunny day, since we're not talking twenty below yet.
Raya
PS: One note is that the square-cornered jalousies would surely be appreciated by someone, in case you were thinking "Oh these old things; I'll get rid of them." They're not made anymore and the new windows in that size (sliding or jalousie) don't give you any more than 50% opening area vs. the 100% of the square-cornered jalousie windows. Also, people who don't want to convert but have a damaged or missing window would really consider them a find.
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10-25-2010, 12:26 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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I've also been curious about this one. Our trailer is missing one of the larger side windows entirely and it's a dilemma whether we should hunt down an original replacement, or switch the side windows to new radius-cornered ones. I've learned to really appreciate the function of the squared jalousies, but they're hard to find, and I still can't help but look at those rounded front/rear windows and wish the sides could match to reflect the camper's all-over rounded shape.
I've mainly wondered whether there's a good reason we don't simply get larger (wider, taller, or a little of both) radius-cornered windows so that we could cut away a bit of the shell, rather than have to glass it in (and patch the stinkin' ensolite).
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10-25-2010, 12:32 PM
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#4
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Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 1983 13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 85
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Yup, same thing I am thinking. I found a place on Ebay that would custom make interior trim rings in different widths, up to a couple of inches. Might simplify the ensolite issue and I am planning on painting the exterior so that would not be an issue. So does anyone know the rough openings for the jealousy windows in a 1983 Scamp? Since it is outside it would be better to have the replacement windows ahead of time.
Jon
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10-25-2010, 02:52 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Hi Sam and Jess,
Yeah, I thought of that too at first. My thinking was well, if I can just enlarge the windows a bit, I could go radius-cornered and not have to fill in the corners.
Alas, there are reasons.
1) If you go higher, you run into the curve of the roof transition.
2) If you go lower, the back couch cushions will lean on the screens more.
3) If you go backwards you run into the curve of the rear of the camper.
4) If you go forward you run into the closet and/or the upper kitchen cabinet.
Some of these are not insurmountable if you want to change things; but all of them would be more "serious" than filling in the corners.
Raya
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10-25-2010, 06:02 PM
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#6
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Commercial Member
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13 ft and 1982 Perris Pacer 13 ft
Posts: 822
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I encourage you all to check out Hehr International. Take a look at all of the RV options. They make a variety of styles—including a jalousie-style, crank out WITH radius'd corners. (I personally prefer the round corners, 'cuz typically the front and rear, fixed plexi windows have the rounded corners anyway. And I think two differing styles of windows looks weird. Round just looks appropriate on Scamps and other Boler-clones.)
Window Products
I had to buy replacements for my 1982 Perris Pacer earlier this year. The folks at the Los Angeles plant could not have been more helpful. My windows (with screens!) were made-to-order, that is, exactly to MY specs. They were beautiful!
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10-25-2010, 06:26 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evergreen
I am starting to think about replacing the rectangular windows in our 83 Scamp with the newer rounded corners windows.
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If you do replace them, please remember to offer the old square ones to those here that might want them.
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10-25-2010, 06:37 PM
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#8
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Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 1983 13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 85
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Hi Robert, did you have to do fiberglass work when you made the switch? Would you mind telling me roughly how much the door and 2 side windows were?
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10-25-2010, 07:21 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18
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We are just getting started on our 1972 ECO, the big issue was windows, we just had one of the original side windows by dinette. Took the existing window openings' measurements and we were able to take out 3 windows and a rock guard for the front from a wrecked 28' trailer that had slideouts. Took out the windows that were just a little larger than the openings in the ECO, will cut openings to fit windows. One of the back windows has the emergency exit release lever. The rock guard (will need to cut it down a little) will cover a plexiglass insert in the front window as we are using that area for a bathroom and storage, so that window will remain covered. The three windows, with screens and the rock guard were $150. Going back to check for a small window for kitchen area. Now just to get them in!
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10-26-2010, 06:21 AM
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#10
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Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 1983 13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 85
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Hi Raya, I keep holding back on the tabbing. Mainly because what happens if you need to remove them. I have been thinking about bonding in some blocks in the corners between the hull and the cabinet sides (but bonding only on the hull side). Then screwing the cabinets onto those blocks using trim washers to make it look good.
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10-26-2010, 12:12 PM
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#11
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Commercial Member
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13 ft and 1982 Perris Pacer 13 ft
Posts: 822
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10-26-2010, 12:40 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evergreen
Hi Raya, I keep holding back on the tabbing. Mainly because what happens if you need to remove them. I have been thinking about bonding in some blocks in the corners between the hull and the cabinet sides (but bonding only on the hull side). Then screwing the cabinets onto those blocks using trim washers to make it look good.
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Hi Evergreen,
Yes, I thought about that. But then I figured, for one thing, I probably won't have any occasion to remove the cabinets (after all, the Trilliums' are glassed in and that does not seem to have posed problems), and if I do, well, a Multimaster or Sawzall would make short work of cutting the tabbing and they'd be out. It's not very likely so I decided I would rather relax every time it rained knowing there were no potential leak points. I also don't mind the extra integrity the tabbing gives, especially on, say, the closet.
I did consider the blocks/screws method, but that would have had me screwing through the face of the cabinets (instead of the lip which is used originally), and I didn't like that idea for myself, although it certainly could work. As it is I will gelcoat the lip holes so they are filled in.
So far I have tabbed in the closet (basically continuous given its structural function), and the upper rear cabinet (for that one I made six non-contiguous tabs roughly corresponding to the original fastener locations). On that I also removed the center septum because the two cabinet doors were over to the sides and the middle was basically unusable. I then glassed in two septums spread out a bit and cut out a center compartment which I'll probably leave open. Now all the space is usable. I find that cabinet to be quite handy for lightweight clothing, hats, etc.
I've got the upper kitchen cabinet perimeter prepped and ready to glass, so that's next. Then the kitchen lower and I'll be done. Ahhhh.
Another option I considered that you might try would be to use Weld Mount fasteners. The shortest they come is 3/4", so you might have to cut them down a hair, but they are basically studs with a base the size of a quarter, that you adhere with a methacrylate adhesive. They are good for something like 400+ lbs. of force so would probably hold up the cabinets fine considering there would be multiple ones on each cabinet. You could use the original cabinet holes, and then fill them in from the outside. They are used on new boat construction. So you would just have to cut a small slit or disc out of the Ensolite and clean prep that small area. I think I will use them for anyplace I want to attach anything else to the shell (I may add an upper cabinet forward, as I don't have one of those).
Anyway, having removed and replaced the jalousie windows, I can pretty confidently say that getting larger ones would not work very well. You could go larger downwards, but that would be a pain with the seat back cushions; or forward, but that would necessitate changing the closet or upper kitchen cabinets. Basically all things that would be more work then filling in the corners, unless you were doing a remodeling job anyway and changing the interior.
Larger windows that went up or back would get into the rounded part of the camper and not fit properly.
Robert... on the parallel threads. I am guessing that the new board's search function must not work very well, as it seems that lately we are getting many repeat threads that are started new when there are really similar threads that are not very old. It can be a bit discouraging, because it can take some time to type in a good post, and then when you see something similar posted not too long after, well, you want to share the information but then you maybe don't want to spend another 45 minutes typing it again....
I've always used the Google search function to search the board myself.
Raya
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10-26-2010, 01:55 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Compact Jr
Posts: 229
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This is a local manufacturer of windows in my local area, they use to provide the windows for Bigfoot
RV Windows by Sun-View Industries
might fit your present opening.
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10-26-2010, 04:32 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Johans
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Thanks! Good information and pictures. Good advice about the bees and wasps too. I used two cans of wasp spray before I could get back in the trailer at the salvage yard! Will carry two more cans if I go back to get a small window for kitchen area.
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10-26-2010, 06:24 PM
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#15
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Commercial Member
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13 ft and 1982 Perris Pacer 13 ft
Posts: 822
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Kent,
Cool! I've bookmarked that resource. Funky website, tho...
I did discover this while browsing...could make for an interesting alternative to the crappy looking 3-way refrigerator vents we're all currently stuck with...
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10-28-2010, 06:56 PM
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#16
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Moderator
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,436
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I like that the Vent is accessible with a key. What site is it from?
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10-29-2010, 12:09 PM
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#17
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Commercial Member
Trailer: 1988 Scamp 13 ft and 1982 Perris Pacer 13 ft
Posts: 822
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Pam,
It is the site Kent referred to above...
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