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02-06-2006, 09:33 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Does anyone have a roof rack attached to either the Scamp 13 or 16? The concept seems to make sense but I am concerned about the structural integrety of the walls, roof, etc. Although the Scamps are tough, I don't think they can really handle the weight of a rack, more less the weight of the articles within the rack. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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02-06-2006, 09:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,817
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Quote:
Although the Scamps are tough, I don't think they can really handle the weight of a rack, more less the weight of the articles within the rack. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I think you've got that right  It's my understanding that even a roof-type air conditioner must be ordered from the Scamp factory...or at least the trailer must be built specifically for a roof A/C...otherwise the roof lacks the structural intregrity to handle the extra weight.
Put the roof rack on the tug instead
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-07-2006, 12:21 AM
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#3
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,225
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Quote:
The concept seems to make sense...
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How tall are you?  I am 5'6" and stowing something on the roof of the trailer seems like a lot of effort. Not to mention the wind resistance.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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02-07-2006, 07:55 AM
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#4
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Quote:
I think you've got that right It's my understanding that even a roof-type air conditioner must be ordered from the Scamp factory...or at least the trailer must be built specifically for a roof A/C...otherwise the roof lacks the structural intregrity to handle the extra weight.
Put the roof rack on the tug instead
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All great information. I figured the weight would be too much but wanted to run the question by the "posse" first. Thanks for your input
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02-07-2006, 09:25 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
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If you were to do this, you could get away with it by supporting the roof rack from the frame of the trailer, either by using existing structural members or by adding compression posts.
The way I would approach this would be to first consider using the existing holes in the roof where the twisted supports at the ends of the kitchen cabinets connect at the rear of the trailer. In the front, at least on my 16ft, there is the closet near the door on the right side and the bathroom walls on the left that might provide sufficient existing structural support.
It would be better if the twisted supports were extended directly to the floor. The extension could be an additional structural member (board) on the inside of the cabinet. The two wood screws at the bottom of the twisted support are in "shear". You would want to replace them with through bolts and nuts with washers.
Ideally you might want to provide something better (and more esthetic) than those twisted supports. How about something made of teak? I appreciate the functional beauty of most yacht interiors. I also have a weakness for yacht interior books. I've often imagined how a yacht interior craftsman/designer might treat a Scamp interior.
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02-07-2006, 01:42 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
...I've often imagined how a yacht interior craftsman/designer might treat a Scamp interior.
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For a yacht-like interior in a Boler 1300 (well, it's almost a Scamp) dig up some images of the "mogulboler" (by Kevin, a.k.a. mogulboler in some forums, and mogulandllc on eBay). This is a somewhat fuzzy photo from his eBay ad when he sold the trailer, showing a teak and metal (aluminum?) kitchen support design.
I like it, but I assume that Loren is thinking of something more substantial to contribute to roof rack support, although this one looks quite strong to me.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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02-07-2006, 04:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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Don't overlook the effects of vertical sway resulting from a roof load -- The entire rig would be more stable with the load over four tires/suspensions on the four tow vehicle wheels than over only two wheels on the trailer.
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02-07-2006, 06:15 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Further to Pete's point, the fact that the trailer roof is high - compared to the track width - makes the handling/stability problem worse. My van has a 150 lb weight limit for the factory roof rack, and I am sure that is not a structural limit - they don't want too much inverted pendulum effect. Although the van roof rack is high compared to a car, and high enough to cause Toyota concern, it is still much lower than my Boler roof.
Although I have considered Boler roof mounting, I am thinking about solar panels (which belong up there), not general cargo (which belongs low, and preferably supported by the drive axle).
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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02-07-2006, 07:10 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 4,897
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I saw a Boler 13ft in Fernie BC with home made roof rack with a canoe on it.Don't know any more than that.
__________________
Retired Underground Coal Miner.
Served in Canadian Army (1PPCLI)
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02-07-2006, 08:46 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Trailer: Love Bug 1973
Posts: 18
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When I purchased my Love Bug it came with an aftermarket roof mounted AC and the previous owner attatched a support along the roof made of plywood. Its been like that for at least 4 years and never had any structural problems. I think if you did put a roof rack on the top you would need a ladder though. Maybe just use it for a couple of bicycles!
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02-09-2006, 06:04 PM
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#11
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Quote:
If you were to do this, you could get away with it by supporting the roof rack from the frame of the trailer, either by using existing structural members or by adding compression posts.
The way I would approach this would be to first consider using the existing holes in the roof where the twisted supports at the ends of the kitchen cabinets connect at the rear of the trailer. In the front, at least on my 16ft, there is the closet near the door on the right side and the bathroom walls on the left that might provide sufficient existing structural support.
It would be better if the twisted supports were extended directly to the floor. The extension could be an additional structural member (board) on the inside of the cabinet. The two wood screws at the bottom of the twisted support are in "shear". You would want to replace them with through bolts and nuts with washers.
Ideally you might want to provide something better (and more esthetic) than those twisted supports. How about something made of teak? I appreciate the functional beauty of most yacht interiors. I also have a weakness for yacht interior books. I've often imagined how a yacht interior craftsman/designer might treat a Scamp interior.
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I agree. Thanks for your detailed notes. I used to own a 36ft sail boat and have modified most of the interrior of my Scamp to look and function very similar.
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02-10-2006, 06:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
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I'd love to see pictures of your Scamp interior rebuilt to yacht-like standards, if you ever get a chance to take some.
My first encounter with this idea was at a woodworker's show in Port Townsend, WA where one of the fellows displaying some cabinetry had a notebook portfolio with pictures of an funky home-made camper and more of an Airstream that had custom yacht type interiors.
He estimated the labor for an Airstream conversion would run around $10,000. And the material at about the same depending on what appliances you wanted. All materials were yacht quality, teak, mahogany, ash, stainless steel, brass, etc.. No camper appliances. That was about 10 years ago.
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02-15-2006, 06:29 PM
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#13
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Quote:
I'd love to see pictures of your Scamp interior rebuilt to yacht-like standards, if you ever get a chance to take some.
My first encounter with this idea was at a woodworker's show in Port Townsend, WA where one of the fellows displaying some cabinetry had a notebook portfolio with pictures of an funky home-made camper and more of an Airstream that had custom yacht type interiors.
He estimated the labor for an Airstream conversion would run around $10,000. And the material at about the same depending on what appliances you wanted. All materials were yacht quality, teak, mahogany, ash, stainless steel, brass, etc.. No camper appliances. That was about 10 years ago.
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Sure, I'd love to share my mods. Keep in mind I am mostly just creating more storage space by utilizing my sailing experiences. The interrior does not LOOK like a boat, just odds and ends here and there.
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02-16-2006, 06:53 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Y2K6 Bigfoot 25 ft (25B25RQ) & Y2K3 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 5,040
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Loren, was that Airstream you saw photos of a Bambi? The woman who bought my '61 Bambi five or six years ago lives in Redmond WA, and had it gutted and refitted at a shipwright's shop. She sent me photos and the restoration was beautiful. Unfortunately the photos were all lost in a crash, so I don't have them any more.
Regarding the roof rack, Thomas Haney (a member here) used a conduit roof rack to raise his sagging roof on his highly customized Scamp cottage. Unfortunately the photos seem to be lost post-site-hack. Perhaps if any of you know Thomas, you might persuade him to re-post them. I don't think I'd be willing to put a rack on mine for all of the reasons listed above, but Thomas showed that it can be done.
Roger
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02-17-2006, 11:01 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
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No Roger, it wasn't a Bambi. It was at least 25 ft, maybe over 30. I could tell by the pictures before/after showing the original layout
What happened was I had the Kubota all geared up to prepare our field in the spring for market gardening and the rain shut me down. So I decided to flake out for a day. Me and my truck ended up in Port Townsend and a woodworker's show was in progress there. Since I only drink home brew latte I decided to squander a buck or so to get in.
It was pretty interesting what those folks could do with wood; grandfather clocks, chairs, furniture, cabinets, bowls, lighting, hand tool displays, etc. Beautiful stuff, well thought out and often quite practical.
One fellow had a couple of samples of high level furniture grade kitchen cabinets. In his portfolio binder was the pictures of funky camper on a truck with an exquisiste yacht-style interior and others of the Airstream. My original impression was that this had more to do with style and opulence than something practical for my style of camping/touring/traveling. The "coolness quotient" would definitely rate at least a 9, maybe a 10.
At the time I was highly intrigued not really interested enough to get the fellow's card or enouph info to follow up later. But the encounter is still in the back of my mind.
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02-17-2006, 11:25 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,817
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Quote:
Regarding the roof rack, Thomas Haney (a member here) used a conduit roof rack to raise his sagging roof on his highly customized Scamp cottage. Unfortunately the photos seem to be lost post-site-hack. Perhaps if any of you know Thomas, you might persuade him to re-post them. I don't think I'd be willing to put a rack on mine for all of the reasons listed above, but Thomas showed that it can be done.
Roger
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It can be done, but Thomas put the roof rack on to LIFT (or unsquish..as the case may be) the fiberglass shell, not because he was adding any weight to the TOP. That would have been counterproductive.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-18-2006, 12:15 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1985 Scamp 16 ft / ft 04 Subaru Forester XS (extra slow)
Posts: 309
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I see this question come up from time to time and I always wonder:
-what would you put on a roof rack atop a Scamp?
-What would you stand on to load and unload it?
-Why wouldn't you put bikes, clothes or whatever inside the egg instead?
These trailers are designed for good aerodynamics, which partially makes up for their large frontal and side area. Disturb that smooth air flow over the top and you'll probably see a difference in sidewind stability, fuel economy and center of gravity.
Here's where I put my roof rack- atop the car. I top it with a full-width rocket box, an old Yakima Space Case. It makes a nice wedge-shaped air dam that fills most of the height difference between my Forester's roof and the trailer's. It serves as the family clothes closet. It gives a faint big-rig look, like an air dam on a semi.
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02-18-2006, 09:34 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,817
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I found a picture on my PC of Thomas' Skimp (named for doing everything as cheap as possible) Funny what you can find if you just look
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-19-2006, 05:17 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Y2K6 Bigfoot 25 ft (25B25RQ) & Y2K3 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 5,040
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Quote:
I used to own a 36ft sail boat and have modified most of the interrior of my Scamp to look and function very similar.
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I meant to ask earlier... where in the Scamp did you manage to squeeze in the V-birth and anchor locker?
Roger
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