Scamp 13 awning rail install - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-18-2017, 12:25 PM   #1
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Name: Steve Robison
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Scamp 13 awning rail install

I'm installing a 7 foot awning on the Scamp and was wondering what a sufficient amount of rivets would be to use?

There are like 20+ holes in the rail but obviously these rails are made for 20 foot rvs with a huge awning so i think it would be overkill to drill that many holes in the Scamp.

I was thinking maybe 6 or 8 rivets? And should I use VHB tape under the rail also for extra adhesion and to give it a water tight seal?
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:45 PM   #2
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Its been a while but I think I used 5...
one about 3-4" from each end, then one in the center then split each space.
that's a little less than 20" on center. I used adhesive silicone caulk under the rail and never had a problem. we always traveled with the bag awning in the rail.
If you choose, going to 6 rivets would give you 16" on center and maybe a little added confidence.
You could use stainless screws of the right length with washers and nylocks instead.
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:52 PM   #3
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Thanks, would you happen to know what length rivets I'd need? I've got 3/16 by what i think maybe are 1/4" long but I'm not sure if they'll be long enough.
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:56 PM   #4
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Also what silicone adhesive did you use?
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:58 PM   #5
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do a search on this side for awning installation one of our member did a great write up that I used when I installed mine almost 4 years ago.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:04 PM   #6
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I don't think that 1/4" rivets would be long enough.
Even if your rivets are longer than necessary they would only grip better.
One point... When you drill be cautious about the drill depth to avoid bunching up the rat fur with the drill bit.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:10 PM   #7
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I have ensolite in there but thanks for the tip, I'll still watch out so i don't punch through. As for the rivets i ended up buying 3/16 x 1/2 inch. I was debating between the 5/32 size but opted for the larger size just because. Although they are a bit too thick for the awning rail so I'm going to have to enlarge the mounting holes.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:27 PM   #8
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The LoveBug pictured above had elephant hide as well...still nice to take care, if you don't puncture the hide, you can feel it but it won't show much.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
Also what silicone adhesive did you use?
I always use "kitchen & bath" since it is mildew and mold resistant.
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:12 AM   #10
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I bought this stuff called GE Silicone iron grip, it sounds like strong stuff. It also says it's for exterior and interior use so hopefully it'll work alright.

GE Silicone Iron Grip 10.1 oz. Clear Silicone Adhesive-HD90058 - The Home Depot
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:42 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I bought this stuff called GE Silicone iron grip, it sounds like strong stuff. It also says it's for exterior and interior use so hopefully it'll work alright.

GE Silicone Iron Grip 10.1 oz. Clear Silicone Adhesive-HD90058 - The Home Depot
Being your wet location, it doesn't say anything of mold or mildew resistance like the product Floyd suggested to you, just sayin'.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:52 AM   #12
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I saw some kitchen and bath caulk but it was all regular caulk and sealant, nothing said adhesive on it. Just an FYI I also plan to use some Lexel caulking I have around the perimeter of the rail so no water gets between it and the camper. I'll try to search around online to see if I can find a cheap mildew resistant adhesive.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:21 AM   #13
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I saw some kitchen and bath caulk but it was all regular caulk and sealant, nothing said adhesive on it. Just an FYI I also plan to use some Lexel caulking I have around the perimeter of the rail so no water gets between it and the camper. I'll try to search around online to see if I can find a cheap mildew resistant adhesive.
Not sure you really need the additional adhesive factor for an awning rail with the rivets in place, can't hurt though. Are you planning on using a bag awning and traveling with it on the rail while towing?
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:29 AM   #14
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No, I plan on removing it when in tow. I just wasn't sure how securely I should attach it as I read quite a bit of conflicting info on here about some saying they used only VHB tape while others saying that's a no no and only use stainless steel bolts.

If you say a few rivets will suffice then that's great, I won't bother with the extra adhesion and just use regular sealant. If it gets too windy I obviously won't leave the awning out anyway.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:34 AM   #15
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Trust Floyds work
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I bought this stuff called GE Silicone iron grip, it sounds like strong stuff. It also says it's for exterior and interior use so hopefully it'll work alright.

GE Silicone Iron Grip 10.1 oz. Clear Silicone Adhesive-HD90058 - The Home Depot
I've never seen that stuff but they say it is the strongest available.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:42 AM   #17
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I put new rail on the Boler for a new bag awning. I made a drill stop on my bit so I wouldn't go through the insolite but did go through the fiberglass.
I then used 3/16 X1/8 rivets every 6 inches along rail with 1/4 X 1 inch long bolt on each end and used a locking acorn nut with washer inside..
I used Dicor roof patch painted on back of rail and applied it while still wet.
This ment everything had to be pre drilled and ready to go and I did this with rail held in place by the 2 end bolts.
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:55 PM   #18
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No, I plan on removing it when in tow. I just wasn't sure how securely I should attach it as I read quite a bit of conflicting info on here about some saying they used only VHB tape while others saying that's a no no and only use stainless steel bolts.

If you say a few rivets will suffice then that's great, I won't bother with the extra adhesion and just use regular sealant. If it gets too windy I obviously won't leave the awning out anyway.
People will say not to use VHB tape and one reason is they think it can't be removed. But that is not true, the way to remove it is to tease up one end and then grip that end with pliers. Pull firmly keeping the direction of the pull low to the trailer and parallel to the line of the tape. It will then stretch and release from the surface as it stretches.

But you do need to realize that 3M does recommend using a particular type of primer for fiberglass surfaces with specific versions of VHB tape. It is a good way to go but there are limiting factors to getting good results. One limiting factor besides primer and the tape that matches it is you need to have two surfaces that are pretty much flat to each other for the best bond. It will bond to fiberglass and to metal as well.

As to adhesive caulks, polyurethane caulk is a good way to go. It is stronger than silicone and it won't leave that unfortunate kind of residue behind if you have to remove it. As to the cost, it is perhaps a few dollars more but it won't break the bank and it will last over the years without failure.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:39 PM   #19
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I heard from Wendy that Scamp recommended a "peel" type pop rivet to attach an awning rail as they spread out more. Learned that AFTER I installed the rail on our Uhaul.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
People will say not to use VHB tape and one reason is they think it can't be removed. But that is not true, the way to remove it is to tease up one end and then grip that end with pliers. Pull firmly keeping the direction of the pull low to the trailer and parallel to the line of the tape. It will then stretch and release from the surface as it stretches.

But you do need to realize that 3M does recommend using a particular type of primer for fiberglass surfaces with specific versions of VHB tape. It is a good way to go but there are limiting factors to getting good results. One limiting factor besides primer and the tape that matches it is you need to have two surfaces that are pretty much flat to each other for the best bond. It will bond to fiberglass and to metal as well.

As to adhesive caulks, polyurethane caulk is a good way to go. It is stronger than silicone and it won't leave that unfortunate kind of residue behind if you have to remove it. As to the cost, it is perhaps a few dollars more but it won't break the bank and it will last over the years without failure.
I have bought trailers which were covered with gobs of improperly applied silicone and had no problem removing it when I chose to do so. Have you personally had problems removing it?
Polyurethane caulk sounds like it would do fine.
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