Scamp 13 Table-bed upgrade. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-06-2020, 01:29 PM   #1
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Name: Paul
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 55
Scamp 13 Table-bed upgrade.

Overview:

We have a Scamp 2013 with the oversized (full) bed option and bunkbed layout/floor plan. We are often wanting to "dine in" but converting the bed was ALWAYS a huge pain. We had seen INTECH use a table on an arm for ease in getting in and out of their dinettes, and I figured I could do the same with the Scamp 13's table/bed.


Project:

1) As I have said elsewhere, we want to allow all of our mods to keep the ability of a future owner to essentially return it to stock, so these mods either used new parts (saving the originals) or involved simple drill holes (often hidden or out of the way).

2) We essentially rebuilt a new table, but cut it in half. Using the old table as a template, I cut a sheet of 3/4" exterior AC plywood to match the existing table. Add to this, we had a local upholstery firm cut up a futon mattress (bought off Amazon) to act as the center bed section(s).

https://www.amazon.com/Cheer-Collect...-garden&sr=1-4

This only used two sections of the tri-fold mattress, so we had the third section split into 2 bolsters (see photos).

3) To this table, we applied Formica to both sides (in our case, we used a color designed to brighten the Scamp's interior). Then, using white 3/4" vinyl edging (inserted into a 1/16" slot routed into the edge) we finished the two pieces for a clean appearance.

4) We then ordered a Lagun Table Mount with long AND short posts. (https://www.lagunusa.com/)

5) The post mount plate was mounted to the steel frame of the trailer at the step for the bed/table. Please note: the mounting plate is too long, so it needed to be cut down, drilled, and countersunk to fit the (hidden) frame member behind the step (making sure to allow for missing the plywood floor). Care was taken to ensure a smooth surface that was trip-hazard free and still easy to slip on either of the dovetail posts.

6) The hard part was building the "diving board" block to act as a support the front plywood section while in use as a bed. I will eventually build this out of steel, but I was prototyping with scrap plywood. This was then drilled/chiseled to fit the top of the shorter table post. After this was finished, I cut off the short table post to match the exact height of the bench insets for the table/bed.

7) The Lagun table attachment was applied to the front section of the table and additional screws were installed to ensure a firm attachment (even close to the edge, which was pre-tested for spin clearance and use).


Conclusions:

My wife and I love this mod, as it has allowed us to completely overcome the daily draw back of converting the entire bed (which was forcing us to seriously consider selling the 13' for a 16' or 17'), cushions, and table every time we want to dine in. Additionally, I allows us to nap on a "daybed" and still swing the table around for kitchen duties.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:03 PM   #2
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Name: Alan
Trailer: 2010 Little Joe / 2010 2 Dr Jeep Wrangler
Colorado
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Very clever
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:07 PM   #3
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Registry
Nice! looks like a great mod!
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:26 AM   #4
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 55
What an ingenious and well thought out modification! Hats off to you - and thank you for taking the time to share such a detailed plan!
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:45 AM   #5
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Name: Linda
Trailer: Scamp
North Dakota
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13' Scamp

This looks great! I wish I had the skills to adapt my 13' in this way. It is exactly what I've been hoping for. Nice work!
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:58 AM   #6
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Trailer: Scamp
California
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Thanks Linda. I'm kinda amazed there isn't a mod like this sold in kit form. Once you have all the parts together, it would literally be a 4 bolt install. If I was younger and didn't have RA, I would do it myself.
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Originally Posted by Linda M R View Post
This looks great! I wish I had the skills to adapt my 13' in this way. It is exactly what I've been hoping for. Nice work!
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:01 PM   #7
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California
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Thank you Julie, it's always nice to have a little positive feedback...
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Originally Posted by Julie in Montana View Post
What an ingenious and well thought out modification! Hats off to you - and thank you for taking the time to share such a detailed plan!
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:46 PM   #8
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Name: Bridget
Trailer: Currently Shopping
Maryland
Posts: 11
Love this Mod. I'm on the hunt for a 13' Scamp and this is just what I will need. I travel alone, so the single bed with a full time table would work. I wouldn't need the mods to convert to a double bed.


Question:
In one of the pictures showing the table installed on the lagun arm, there is a small block of wood under the post. Is this required to support the weight of the post so it doesn't pull the bolts out of the post mount?
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:55 PM   #9
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Trailer: Scamp
California
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Bridget, good morning. The block is there to add a little more height. I'm 6' and around 225lbs, so at first we used it to add an extra inch to the height to slide my fat ass on and out ;-). We eventually found we don't need the block, and now we just eyeball it, tighten the clamp, and its held up just fine for all our uses.
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Originally Posted by BridgetMills View Post
Love this Mod. I'm on the hunt for a 13' Scamp and this is just what I will need. I travel alone, so the single bed with a full time table would work. I wouldn't need the mods to convert to a double bed.


Question:
In one of the pictures showing the table installed on the lagun arm, there is a small block of wood under the post. Is this required to support the weight of the post so it doesn't pull the bolts out of the post mount?
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:58 PM   #10
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
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Bravo, well done.
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Old 10-14-2020, 01:00 PM   #11
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California
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Timber Wolf, thank you...
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Bravo, well done.
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Old 10-14-2020, 01:19 PM   #12
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Name: Tracy
Trailer: Scamp 13, 1980
AZ
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Love your work.

I have been planning a similar mod with a Lagun table mount and yours is the first I've seen. Beautifully done. Thanks for the excellent post and photos.
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Old 10-14-2020, 01:28 PM   #13
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Trailer: Scamp
California
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Tracy, let me know if you have any questions, material lists, or need any other photos...
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I have been planning a similar mod with a Lagun table mount and yours is the first I've seen. Beautifully done. Thanks for the excellent post and photos.
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Old 10-14-2020, 03:41 PM   #14
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Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
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I will copy this and recreate in my camper, although I'll probably have to wait until next spring, thank you for the idea!
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Old 10-14-2020, 03:48 PM   #15
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Name: Tracy
Trailer: Scamp 13, 1980
AZ
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Originally Posted by Berthaduniverse View Post
Tracy, let me know if you have any questions, material lists, or need any other photos...
Thanks much -- I just took out my front bunks and built a dinette using a Lagun table mount that I moved 2-3 times until I was happy with the location. My only concern re your build -- what did you use to cut the Lagun mount and to drill through the steel? I'm comfortable with wood work, but not used to working with metal.
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Old 10-18-2020, 02:21 PM   #16
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California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TracyG View Post
Thanks much -- I just took out my front bunks and built a dinette using a Lagun table mount that I moved 2-3 times until I was happy with the location. My only concern re your build -- what did you use to cut the Lagun mount and to drill through the steel? I'm comfortable with wood work, but not used to working with metal.
Good morning Tracy.

Drilling, I used my Milwaukee cordless to drill (as I recall 1/2") thru the linolium and steel cross plate. In our model, it is a flat area behind the step is made of steel plate/channel, its not a box/tubular section like most of the rest of the frame. Its maybe 1/8-3/16 thick. Drilling was easy, but if you dont have a center punch, maybe start with a pilot hole at about 1/8".

The mounting plate from Lagun is aluminum, so I used my carbide tipped wood blade on my chop saw (I use this all the time for both aluminum, plastics, and wood. As usual with aluminum, cur it at a slower rate than wood (don't force it) In my experience, most finer cut carbide wood blades will cut al just fine.
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Old 10-19-2020, 01:07 PM   #17
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Name: Tracy
Trailer: Scamp 13, 1980
AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berthaduniverse View Post
Good morning Tracy.

Drilling, I used my Milwaukee cordless to drill (as I recall 1/2") thru the linolium and steel cross plate. In our model, it is a flat area behind the step is made of steel plate/channel, its not a box/tubular section like most of the rest of the frame. Its maybe 1/8-3/16 thick. Drilling was easy, but if you dont have a center punch, maybe start with a pilot hole at about 1/8".

The mounting plate from Lagun is aluminum, so I used my carbide tipped wood blade on my chop saw (I use this all the time for both aluminum, plastics, and wood. As usual with aluminum, cur it at a slower rate than wood (don't force it) In my experience, most finer cut carbide wood blades will cut al just fine.
Thanks so much. So no special type of drill bit. Appreciate the tips.

And should I expect sparks when I cut through the aluminum plate? It's kind of thick and I'm a bit timid to cut this -- have never cut metal with a chop saw before. Again, appreciate your tips -- will make this job a breeze if I have the courage (and time :-)) to do it. Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TracyG View Post
Thanks so much. So no special type of drill bit. Appreciate the tips.

And should I expect sparks when I cut through the aluminum plate? It's kind of thick and I'm a bit timid to cut this -- have never cut metal with a chop saw before. Again, appreciate your tips -- will make this job a breeze if I have the courage (and time :-)) to do it. Thanks.
Tracy, no problem.

Drill bits: I use high-speed steel bits and they do fine on aluminum (go slow and clamp your material). The exception is with hole saws and countersinks, where it might be better to look for bits and speeds rated for aluminum, mostly because the steel bimetal bits don't leave the cleanest cuts/holes.

As for the chop saw, I have a 30+ year old 10" Makita chop saw with both 60 and 80 tooth Freud Diablo saw blades (5/8" Arbor PermaShield Coating) and both blades cut aluminum (up to 1/2") flawlessly. There are no sparks (sparks generally come from ferrous metals like steel) but there will be a LOT of tiny aluminum shavings (imagine saw dust, but in aluminum). As I've said before, go slow (don't force the blade like one might on a 2x4) and it should go fine. Now, while it is not necessary for this project, if your future projects involve aluminum trim, I'd be VERY cautious on things like thin-wall aluminum trim or extruded profiles, as chop saws can catch and bend the metal at the start of the cut.
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:51 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Gompka View Post
I will copy this and recreate in my camper, although I'll probably have to wait until next spring, thank you for the idea!
Thanks Gompka, hopefully you'll post your progress and results.
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:57 AM   #20
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
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cutting aluminium trim clamp it between 2 pieces of wood and then cut through the wood and trim at the same time. wear safety glasses and be careful with the aluminium shavings they are sharp and easily tracked everywhere.
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