Scamp adds drain valves on 13'

[Triker]

The Scamp Factory is now placing a drain valve in both the hot and cold water lines. These are located on the underside below the fridge vents. I can only verify this is being done on the 13'.

[gordon2]

Also on my 16 footer built in Sept 2015. They never mentioned it at the orientation so I had to figure it out for myself. The holes in the floor were over sized so I added some butyl tape to keep nasties out. The topside pic is the "before."

It seems to be a good place to pick up a lot of dirt and road grime, and one of my drain valves is already turning a little rough and making a grinding noise. I cleaned it up and its a little better but I think it might fail at some point.

[mary and bob]

Parkliner was installing drains in the hot and cold water lines but the valves are inside the trailer, with a short section of line out the bottom. Seems that the valves inside would be better.

[Paul O.]

Not knowing if Scamp changed the plumbing layout otherwise, I tend to speculate that they ran into some problems in draining the pipes for winter, and these valves are designed to help. However, if one drains the fresh water tank, and pumps RV antifreeze in the lines, these valves would be unnecessary. The antifreeze is still needed for all traps, for the shower drain transfer pump, and the fresh water pump. It almost seems these valves might make for more work.

[Darral T.]

Maybe in the DVD that came with the Scamp it would explain it? Or the manual? The only thing I can think of is for winterizing. I CERTAINLY would not depend on those two unnecessary valves for this. I use air and anti-freeze- air through the city port and RV anti-freeze in the water tank (1 gal). Those two drain valves wont drain your pump, water tank, water heater etc. I would love to see their "instructions" on these.

Scamp needs to make some changes, but that one blows me away.

[Triker]

Sorry, no 'instructions'. The employee pointed out the valves and said 'this is not in the manual.' I've not watched the DVD yet.

[CampyTime]

I am not a fan of this change at all. And the hole they cut? It should have been done to make a better fit than that. I, too, can see these getting trashed from road debris. Just doesn't agree with me. Perhaps a winterizing aide? I don't know really.


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[Triker]

In Scamp Factory's defense, in my new 13' they adequately filled around the drain holes so critters can't get in.

[Darral T.]

Ann...you dont say which 13' you have. Did you get the bathroom? If so, look and see if they added anything to stop the critters from getting in around the drain. Here's a link to a photo I put on Flickr several years ago. Not only could critters get up in there, but the hole that was cut was also RAW wood encouraging early deterioration from underneath.

Anyway, I fixed both.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/50351683@N08/4734155581/

Originally Posted by Triker

In Scamp Factory's defense, in my new 13' they adequately filled around the drain holes so critters can't get in.

[Triker]

I do have the bath; thanks, Darral!

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Triker

In Scamp Factory's defense, in my new 13' they adequately filled around the drain holes so critters can't get in.

Inconsistent quality control does not work for their defense. Why does one trailer have things sealed up, and the next one not?

Don't get me wrong, I am happy with the value I got when I bought my Scamp, even with a number of quality control problems which have been or are being addressed with assistance from Eveland's. But the fact is that the Scamp quality is inconsistent and this forum is a great place to learn about little things like this.

[Darral T.]

I was also wondering if Scamp adds a piece at the bottom of their entry doors now? Part of the "rat fur" was ACTUALLY exposed to the elements beneath the trailer causing the bottom of the door to get dirty and trashy looking!! I could NOT believe this oversite. Again, I fixed mine.

[CampyTime]

I have a 2012 and there is a black molding at the doors bottom. Is this what you mean? Still a little lip of rat fur below it though which gets wet and dirty. I often blot it with paper towels in wet weather while camping as area below molding still gets dirty and wet.


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[Darral T.]

Yes, there's a black molding at the bottom of the door as you say but it does NOT protect the rat fur. Look at the pic I include here of my mod. This was in the top 5 I did when I bought the Scamp. But again, I think I've seen a newer Scamp where they're extending the corner protection on across the door bottom to stop the dirt build-up. It was dumb Scamp letting that go.

Originally Posted by CampyTime

I have a 2012 and there is a black molding at the doors bottom. Is this what you mean? Still a little lip of rat fur below it though which gets wet and dirty. I often blot it with paper towels in wet weather while camping as area below molding still gets dirty and wet.


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[CampyTime]

Is your kick plate sheet metal? Looks silver in color. How'd you fasten it? Cheers for posting!


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[Darral T.]

It's actually aluminum "flashing" cut to fit. There's a "hump" on the door at the top of the "kickplate" I call it. I stuck the perimeter down into the molding but I did NOT remove any rivets!! And I tucked the top of it into the ratfur. I siliconed around the edge where you see it in the molding. It's been there for nearly 6 yrs now and still looks good.

I did use some waxed paper to make a pattern before cutting the aluminum. It's only about .020 thick. Very thin and easy to work with. But, you could easily use plastic there as well.

And, you're very welcome.

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Is your kick plate sheet metal? Looks silver in color. How'd you fasten it? Cheers for posting!


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[gordon2]

I noticed water under the very bottom black trim every time it rained, and was concerned about water wicking up to the hidden wood reinforcement and rotting it similar to the way others have documented. You had to look pretty close to see the water but sticking a slip of paper in behind the trim would also reveal it.

I also had some of the trim near the handle come loose in the hot sun. Kent Eveland at Scamp told me the trim was held on by friction (except where it was riveted) but that I could use adhesive also where it came loose so I did that. He thought his would stop the water but it did not. Next, I used ProRV sealant on the entire trim on the door exterior. It made no difference, water would still be present after a rain. So I next used the sealant on the interior of the door, along the trim up to the top of rubber strip at the door bottom.

I have not seen any water since HOWEVER (and this is important), I am not recommending this action because it is very possible that water is still getting into the bottom of the trim but now I have masked the problem and made it harder for it to dry out. I just don't know if it is better this way or not - time will tell.