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Old 03-04-2021, 03:54 PM   #21
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From their site:


Why do I need an air space next to the ASTRO-FOIL or R+HEATSHIELD surface?

When aluminum foil is in direct contact with another surface, it conducts (or transfers) heat
at the points of contact. Creating an air space will prevent conduction and allow the foil
surface to reflect radiant heat. Aluminum foil reflects 97% of radiant heat.
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Old 03-04-2021, 04:54 PM   #22
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What ever you want it to be

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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
What is "Excellent" R-values?
ASTRO-FOILS's side of the story

http://www.energie-innovation.com/astro_foil.html
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:38 PM   #23
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I saw that. They say:
Material must be installed with a minimum of �" of air space on both sides in order to achieve maximum thermal performance. Since Astro-Foil is a "system" insulation, R-values will vary according to the specific application. The R-value stated above represents an installation in an enclosed cavity formed by standard 2" x 4" wood framing members, encapsulated by plywood.



Don't know what that ? in a triangle represents.
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Old 03-04-2021, 06:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I saw that. They say:
Material must be installed with a minimum of �" of air space on both sides in order to achieve maximum thermal performance. Don't know what that ? in a triangle represents.
As installed in a Scamp the R value cannot be more than 4 or 5. But it still works great to prevent condensation. (and attenuate radio, cell phone, and wifi signals)
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Old 03-04-2021, 06:30 PM   #25
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Product specs I've seen suggest as low as R1-2 for the foil bubble wrap alone in a sandwich (no air space). I figure the nap on the headliner traps dead air and adds a little bit. Older trailers used Ensolite, which is about a 1/4" of closed cell foam. I've seen estimates of R2-3 for that. When you add the relatively large window area (single pane on small trailers) and the large number of vents and other shell penetrations, I don't think the difference is worth fussing over. For any real gain in R-value, you have to go thicker, and that creates other issues in such a small trailer.

As someone already noted, Reflectix plus marine headliner is easier to install than closed cell foam for the DIYer, so that's what I usually recommend. Headliner adhesive (from an auto parts store) might be cheaper than spray adhesive for full trailer installations. 3M90 is more convenient for small repair jobs (not to be confused with 3M77, which is a light-duty adhesive and won't stand up to heat).

For cold weather use, adding sheets of Reflectix over the windows and in the roof vent helps a lot (and it functions as a radiant barrier as designed). Upgrading the door seal to eliminate gaps also helps, as does making sure the fridge is well sealed against the shell. Of course if you make it too tight, you'll have condensation and air quality problems with people breathing in such a small space. A little ventilation is required even in the dead of winter.
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Old 03-27-2021, 05:31 PM   #26
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Reflectix lines show through carpet?

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We renovated a Scamp 16. It had been burnt inside and the rat fur & ensolite was melted (along with other fabric/upholstery/foam). I shopped everywhere and considered many options. I went with an original and replaced the insulation and rat fur. The most expensive part was all the spray glue! I used 3M 90. But it’s hard to retain the curves unless you use a stretchy fabric like the marine headliner, a.k.a. “Rat Fur,” which I ordered from Scamp. I looked at many “custom alternatives” including Casita-style carpet. Our interior is now good-as-new and we camp in all weather conditions.
I'm getting ready to do the walls in my 87 Cadet. Do I need to sand them smooth first to get old nasty stuff off? Do the lines of reflectix seams show through the marine headliner? I found a very thin carpet at Home Depot that has no backing, and it's very flexible like fabric. It's made for outdoors, so it's also mold resistant and water proof. I'm a total beginner to this.
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Old 03-27-2021, 05:57 PM   #27
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Doreen. I think you will like carpet. It will be warm, quiet and very forgiving.
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Old 03-27-2021, 06:01 PM   #28
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Can I put it directly on the fiberglass?
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Old 03-27-2021, 07:51 PM   #29
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You could, but I’d be inclined to put a layer of Reflectix or closed cell foam first.
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Old 03-27-2021, 11:03 PM   #30
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Doreen, you can attach your carpet directly with a good carpet adhesive. The inside of your shell should be relatively flat without lumps of stuff like old adhesive or other debris from whatever was there before. You want your carpet to lay flat against the fiberglass without "air spaces" or other voids between the fiberglass and carpet.
You can, if you wish, put in additional insulation, of various types, between the carpet and the fiberglass. Any insulation you add must be securely attached to the fiberglass, flat enough for the carpet to lay flat against it and secure enough to firmly attach the carpet and hold it in place. I avoid the cut and paste jig saw stuff as its difficult to shape and fit together well and although it will add a little insulative value it's unlikely to make your unit much warmer as most heat loss from a trailer is through single pane windows and other openings/drafts. If I was to add insulation, I would use spray foam but this isn't a DIY job and having a shop do this work would likely be expensive so I would advise against it.
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Old 03-28-2021, 07:24 AM   #31
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I didn’t mean the jigsaw floor stuff when I said closed cell foam. You can purchase rolls in various thicknesses (1/4” was used in older trailers with Ensolite). A Cadet has mostly flat walls and simple (not compound) curves, so it should be straightforward for a DIY project. Reflectix is easier to work with and cheaper, but foam has better thermal properties. Either is better than headliner alone.

In answer to an earlier question, if I were installing Reflectix, I would apply foil duct tape (the stuff used for HVAC air ducts, not the oft-confused, general purpose cloth duck tape) over the seams.

Agree about getting the underlying surface fairly clean. Mainly you don’t want any bumps or loose material.
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Old 03-28-2021, 07:28 AM   #32
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When I finished the interior of my Scamp I installed an insulated quilted bolster pad around the wall at the bed. It has really helped when camping in cold weather as that extra insulation keeps you a little warmer and softer along the edges of the bed(s).
If I did anything different I would have installed it higher and made cutouts surrounding the bottom of the windows.
I made this by cutting a band of several layers of Reflectex and covering with some quilted material. I would make it thicker and higher.

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Old 03-28-2021, 12:04 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
When I finished the interior of my Scamp I installed an insulated quilted bolster pad around the wall at the bed. It has really helped when camping in cold weather as that extra insulation keeps you a little warmer and softer along the edges of the bed(s).
If I did anything different I would have installed it higher and made cutouts surrounding the bottom of the windows.
I made this by cutting a band of several layers of Reflectex and covering with some quilted material. I would make it thicker and higher.

I REALLY like this idea!
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