Scamp interior walling ideas - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-24-2021, 03:00 PM   #1
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Name: Della
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 5
Scamp interior walling ideas

Hi there everyone,

I am new to this forum, but I have a 16 ft 1983 scamp trailer that I am renovating and wanted to see what folks thought were some good options for relining the interior of my trailer. I have already stripped out all of the old ensolite which was extremely labor intensive, but unfortunately for me it was necessary as water has gotten in between the fiberglass and the walling in several locations and needed to be removed. I know that nowadays scamp uses reflectix and ratfur, but everything I have seen online says that the reflectix doesnít really do much unless there is an air gap which I donít want to have to do. Does anyone have any experience with re lining a trailer or ideas for other material that could be used? I am not super into the idea of rat fur either as I want something that can wipe clean. I have looked into closed cell foam options but there are sooooo many to choose from and as a newbie I wanted to see if anyone has a specific product they have used or can recommend. Iíve thought of maybe spray foam as well, but am intimidated by the price and the task itself. Thanks so much in advance for any help or advice that you can give, I really appreciate it!

Best wishes,

-Della
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Old 02-24-2021, 04:03 PM   #2
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Name: Cesar
Trailer: Boler American
Oregon
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So this is what I am using on my boler https://www.low-e.com/ProductPage/Pr...E%20Insulation.

I have never actually looked at what Scamp uses in late models, i have only heard that people say its reflectix. This stuff is NOT reflectix. It's the same concept (foil, thin barrier) but it is actually a close cell foam NOT bubble wrap. If you speak to their rep, they will say the same thing you already know "R values are predicated on the existence of an air gap". I gluing outdoor carpet to it and so far it looks good. Will it be great insulation? probably not but my boler is a 13 and i can probably heat it with a cigarette lighter. For what its worth, they also offer this stuff with one side in white and paintable, so that's an option maybe.

If you pay postage, i can send you a piece of it so you can check it out, but you can probably get some samples by contacting their reps.

Not trying to sell you on this stuff of course, but because there is a local distributor near me, i bought an entire roll and have plenty of left over that i can pass on.
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Old 02-24-2021, 06:54 PM   #3
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Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
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Scamp uses Ray Foil, which is indeed identical to Reflectix. Personally I am happy with the performance of the Ray Foil-marine headliner sandwich. The headliner feels warmer to the touch and never clammy. In a small trailer you will brush against it often. Cleaning hasnít been a problem, but we only do light cooking inside.

If youíre searching for closed cell foam, realize that most of it lacks the bonded vinyl top layer of the old Ensolite. That vinyl is important, both for cleaning and durability.
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:28 AM   #4
MJo
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Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
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Scamp interior walling ideas

I have called Scamp with any questions, they always are willing to give information and advice. They've been in the business since the mid-70's.
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:57 AM   #5
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
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If you use a hard surface and want insulation behind, use a spray foam, easy to apply, covers well, bonds well, seals out drafts and provides good thermal and acoustic insulation.
I've also seem folks use indoor/outdoor carpet glued to the interior walls. This type of carpet is made entirely of polymer (plastic) so it doesn't rot, doesn't absorb water (although it can get wet) and doesn't support mold growth. It is very forgiving and doesn't damage easily. It will adsorb odors if you cook a lot, especially if you fry, but it steams easily with a hand steamer unit.
It provides good thermal and acoustic insulation. It is relatively cheap to buy and easy to install. It come in various colors and textures so that you can customize your interior.
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Old 02-26-2021, 07:08 PM   #6
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Name: Della
Trailer: Scamp
California
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Hi Mike,

Thanks for your reply. My one concern with spray foam is getting an even coat that is not bumpy. In your experience is this doable?
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Old 02-27-2021, 01:47 AM   #7
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Name: Michael
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Hi Della, This product can be cut/sanded as necessary. Applicator skill certainly helps. The smoother/more even the application the less it will need to be worked afterwards. You may want to consider a professional to do the actual application for you after you've done the prep. Use a course sandpaper to get the surface you want and don't forget a respirator. Cheers
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Old 02-28-2021, 06:58 PM   #8
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Name: Della
Trailer: Scamp
California
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Hi Cesar,

Thank you so much for your suggestion. I’m going to look into the one you mentioned and see if I can get samples on the paintable one! I really appreciate your advice.

Best,

-Della
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Old 03-03-2021, 05:08 AM   #9
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Name: Nick
Trailer: scamp
California
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Interior finish

How do you intend to use your trailer? If primarily summer time weather the insulation value may be lower depending on use of A/C, if cold weather more insulating value makes it comfortable. I know that sounds obvious but these trailers tend to be poorly insulated and worse leak a lot of cold air ( especially around the door). I took my 13í scamp to the fiberglass and used sheet foam by cutting it to various sizes to follow the shape of the hull and glueing it with Great Stuff using their applicator gun. The bottom of unit is also sealed this way. This has been very effectively keeping it warm. I intend to finish using the bubble wrap and probably rat fur, itís hydrophobic as others have noted. Carpet is not insulation.
This is a PITA job but I use my rig in the winter.
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Old 03-03-2021, 07:27 AM   #10
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The beds in a Scamp sleep crossways, wall-to-wall, around 75-76". The factory Ensolite is around 1/4" thick, similar for the Ray Foil/headliner sandwich. Anything you add to that will decrease the bed length for sleeping. It will also affect cabinet fit if you run it continuously on all the walls. You may have to notch out where the cabinets attach to the walls.

Windows and vents are a big source of heat loss (or gain in summer) you need to consider.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:20 AM   #11
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Name: Nick
Trailer: scamp
California
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Interior

Jon, I am well aware of the constraints involved in this project, my design is based on winter use those objectives define my design. I should note Iím 5í9Ē and unfortunately shrinking. This morning it was 34 degrees outside and a very pleasant 74 inside, using a Dickenson 4500btu propane heater with no noise, no electricity and no moisture problems and it just sips propane. It handles temps in single digits no issues. The Dickenson has never had to run on high to maintain temp, but only for warmup, in fact it has hardly ever run as high as low to maintain temp.

Any great ideas on how to deal with the sieve we call the door?

Thanks for your input.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:41 AM   #12
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Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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Originally Posted by Nick J View Post
Any great ideas on how to deal with the sieve we call the door?
How old is your door seal? You might want to replace it if old. My boler's door seal was really old and I could see daylight around the door when closed. I replaced it and now no light or air is getting through. The seal I used was from Vintage Trailer Supply and is meant for an Airstream but works great.
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:12 AM   #13
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Scamp used a newer rib-style seal for several years before their latest change to a flat(-ish) door. It works pretty well. Call to find out if it's still available through their parts department.

Beyond that, perhaps a home-made quilted door cover that rolls down to cover the inside?

(My remarks about the wall thickness were really aimed at the OP, who is evaluating alternatives. Glad to hear your solution works well.)
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:17 AM   #14
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Name: Della
Trailer: Scamp
California
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Hi Nick,

That sounds like a good idea! Where did you get your sheet foam? There’s so many different ones I am curious to know which kind you were able to make work. I plan to use the trailer in all kinds of weather, the aim is to travel in it full time for as long as I can. When you say you did the bottom as well, did you put the foam inside under the floor or outside under the scamp? Honestly I am also thinking of using rat fur at this point although I previously didn’t want to, it just seems like it’s the best choice after all the products I’ve been looking at. I wish the original ensolite was in better condition and I could have kept it, or that it was easier to find a similar product to replace with. Thanks for your advice!

-Della
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:23 AM   #15
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Name: Della
Trailer: Scamp
California
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Hi Jon,

That’s a good point, I am pretty tall so I would like to keep as much bed space as possible. I was debating reinstalling the fiberglass with bolts or something other than rivets potentially, but will keep that in mind. As for windows, I have the old jalousie windows which aren’t great at sealing out the weather, but do plan to reseal them to the best of my ability and hope to craft some sort of thermally regulating material into window coverings. Open to any ideas on these endeavors as well. Thank you for your advice!

-Della
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:00 PM   #16
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Scamp
Kansas
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We renovated a Scamp 16. It had been burnt inside and the rat fur & ensolite was melted (along with other fabric/upholstery/foam). I shopped everywhere and considered many options. I went with an original and replaced the insulation and rat fur. The most expensive part was all the spray glue! I used 3M 90. But it’s hard to retain the curves unless you use a stretchy fabric like the marine headliner, a.k.a. “Rat Fur,” which I ordered from Scamp. I looked at many “custom alternatives” including Casita-style carpet. Our interior is now good-as-new and we camp in all weather conditions.
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Old 03-04-2021, 07:21 AM   #17
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Indiana
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Originally Posted by MJo View Post
I have called Scamp with any questions, they always are willing to give information and advice. They've been in the business since the mid-70's.

I concure! I have done some maintenance and a lot of personal preference upgrades to my 1993 scamp. Have a lot of labor into making it more enjoyable for me. And I had to do a lot of research to make most of it work. A lot of the research has been contacting scamp and getting more information. They are always happy to help, and have been a great source of information, including pictures. And they seem genuinely interested in what you are doing and what people are doing with their campers. A couple times the guy asked me for pictures when I was done.
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Old 03-04-2021, 07:35 AM   #18
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
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Scamp had it right

I am not totally sure what to say that the wall lines are for my 1993 scamp. Now I have been having some problems with some of the adhesive failing, and the 3m product mentioned works great for resticking it. But after all these years and some of the abuse I have put it through that is not doing bad.

The material itself seems to be very effective. I do "camp" in some very bad weather including very cold. I do need to come up with a better way to warm the propane bottles as down at close to zero they like stop providing gas. Now I use the quotes on the camp in that a lot of the time I am operational with an emergency response. The point there is that normally with camping the door is not opened that much, but if you are operating in the field supporting incident response while people are coming and going a lot. So the door is opened and closed a lot some times.

I find that the furnace can keep up even with a lot of opening and closing the door, but then it is on most of the time. I also note that there are a lot of sources of air leaks. Probably intentional. I know the vent under the door almost certainly is. But with the leaks kind of controlled and with the door staying shut, the furnace will come up and heat up the inside and then go off. I usually takes an hour or so once it turns off the first time for it to cycle through a few more times apparently to even out the temp inside. But then usually it stay off for a couple hours at a time, well maybe a half hour at a time at 0F. And that will all of that single pane glass losing heat. So the wall coverings seem to work very well in that vintage.

I have not needed to replace any of it. But if I did or was doing a scratch rebuild of one I think I would be seriously looking at what was done for this vintage.
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Old 03-04-2021, 03:10 PM   #19
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Scamp site now shows "Astro-Foil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Scamp uses Ray Foil, which is indeed identical to Reflectix.
ASTRO-FOIL - reflective insulation consists of two layers of aluminum foil laminated to the outside of two layers of heavy-duty polyethylene air bubble cushioning. These bubbles form trapped air spaces between the foil surfaces to give the structure excellent "R" values. Because ASTRO-FOIL is also impervious to moisture and air currents, it is an ideal convection and vapor barrier. ASTRO-FOIL's surfaces reflect heat in both directions to keep you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
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Old 03-04-2021, 03:33 PM   #20
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What is "Excellent" R-values?
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