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08-22-2021, 06:37 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Scamp 1995 19'
North Carolina
Posts: 403
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Scamp specific stabilizer jack kit
Has anyone installed the scissor jacks from Scamp?
Do they have to be welded on? I assume they go where the original jacks were bolted on to the rear bumper? Are they easy to use a drill with? Do they feel flimsy?
I know they are not for use as a jack and don't wish to do so, but I absolutely need them to do a good job of stabilizing the back end of my 19' 5th wheel.
I saw references to the BAL brand jacks which look waaay more heavy duty. If anyone has experience with installing those onto the scamp please do chime in as well, preferably with price paid.
Thanks!
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08-22-2021, 07:09 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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Not on the bumper. Bumper is for stabilization only, not lifting. Install on the frame under the rear dinette. That’s where Scamp now installs the BAL stabilizers. They are strong enough to lift the trailer to change a tire or assist with leveling.
Others will have to supply mounting details. I still have the old bumper mounted Atwood stabilizers.
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09-21-2021, 05:38 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 5
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They don’t go where the original ones go on the rear bumper. I had a tube welded between the frame rails Mabe a foot forward. I had a hitch receiver welded to the back bumper and the cross member. We used BAL. c type stabilizer jacks , those appear to be same as OEM . We screwed the jacks to the cross member. I hoped it would stop movement of the floor when we move around at night. It didn’t help much . Next plan is to install BAL lock-arm stabilizer bars to one leg of front landing gear.
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09-21-2021, 11:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Scamp 1995 19'
North Carolina
Posts: 403
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interesting
Quote:
Originally Posted by John 1959
They dont go where the original ones go on the rear bumper. I had a tube welded between the frame rails Mabe a foot forward. I had a hitch receiver welded to the back bumper and the cross member. We used BAL. c type stabilizer jacks , those appear to be same as OEM . We screwed the jacks to the cross member. I hoped it would stop movement of the floor when we move around at night. It didnt help much . Next plan is to install BAL lock-arm stabilizer bars to one leg of front landing gear.
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My old fashioned type stabilize the coach a lot, almost entirely. The only reason I am going to the scissors is that they look much easier to drop down.
What is the c type?
__________________
JWColby EAAT
Exalted Arbiter of Anal Tripe
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09-22-2021, 06:19 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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I’m confused now. Which are we talking about?
Scamp old-style Atwood stabilizers (bumper mount)
Scamp new-style BAL stabilizer jack (frame mount under cabin)
Scissors-style stabilizer jack (not used by Scamp)
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09-22-2021, 06:48 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,415
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[QUOTE=jwcolby123;826056]My old fashioned type stabilize the coach a lot, almost entirely. The only reason I am going to the scissors is that they look much easier to drop down.
The old style Atwoods that Jon shows drop down easy, you just push in on the top end to release them and they drop right down. Folding them back up takes a little more effort.
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09-22-2021, 07:20 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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For me releasing them from behind the bumper to swing down is the hardest part because you have to reach around the bumper, grab the jack blind, and give a firm tug sideways. Floyd welded little handles on his to give something to grab besides the body of the jack.
BAL and scissors jacks are more capable. They can be used to lift and support the trailer for changing a tire as well as campsite leveling (but not for working under the trailer). However both require a tool to screw up and down. The BAL is better with the optional foot pads (not shown).
I haven’t found a compelling reason to change. The Atwoods are simple and tool-free.
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09-22-2021, 10:27 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,415
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[QUOTE=Jon in AZ;826065]For me releasing them from behind the bumper to swing down is the hardest part because you have to reach around the bumper, grab the jack blind, and give a firm tug sideways.
On our Casita I can get at the top of the Atwood stabilizer when they are folded up, so I just push on it with the tool and they drop right down. As far as lifting a trailer to change a tire with any type of stabilizer, I don't think that is a good idea as you can distort the frame. Better to jack near the axle. But as always, it's do as you want with your trailer.
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09-22-2021, 10:46 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
... As far as lifting a trailer to change a tire with any type of stabilizer, I don't think that is a good idea as you can distort the frame. Better to jack near the axle. But as always, it's do as you want with your trailer.
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With the new BAL stabilizers, Scamp does place them closer to the axle. It's been reported that Scamp now endorses using them for tire changing. (I recall Floyd was the one who reported it, and I'd consider him a reliable source.) He has changed his to the new BAL style.
I have not, so I will continue to use a separate scissors jack (or floor jack at home) for lifting just behind the axle as recommended in the older manuals.
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09-22-2021, 06:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Scamp 1995 19'
North Carolina
Posts: 403
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I am just evaluating
The old original stabilizers don't touch the ground firmly reliably. One side will, the other will wiggle. Perhaps mine are just not functioning correctly anymore, my unit is a '95 19 foot scamp. it is old for sure.
That said, it seems to rely on a spring loaded widget pressing a flange into a hole... as I said, one side will press hard down onto the ground, the other just kinda flops around. And I don't see how I can somehow cause more pressure against the ground directly at the stabilizer. Which does not make for an ideal stabilization.
A scissors style would allow me to independently and precisely adjust each side, my objective. I read somewhere that scamp has moved to a scissors style for new units? If so that is not a glowing endorsement for the old style.
__________________
JWColby EAAT
Exalted Arbiter of Anal Tripe
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