Thought some might be interested in my Compact Jr. Rebuild.
I want to build a small trailer that can be pulled down just about any road, and give me total independence for at least 30 days. I've had the Compact Jr for a couple of years, while I figured out the design. I'm already well into the project, and have some pics for you.
and Picture 2
shows the new interior layout. From 9'oclock clockwise--
A composting toilet
means no more black water is generated, and does not use any of my 95 gallons of fresh water.
A vented catalytic heater
(the only one made) for dry propane
Multi-use counter space with surround sound system sub-wolfer, inverter, and storage underneath.
Floor to roof pantry, with freezer/frig compressor on floor
Floor to roof 10 cu. ft. freezer/frig (almost all freezer)
Sink/Stove/Oven with storage, water pump/accumulator tank and 3 watt tri-band cell phone amplifier underneath.
Couch/Bed Platform; pulls out to butt the toilet and back cushion drops into space for sleeping, pushed in with back cushion resting on top for sitting. Lots of storage under, as well as 4-8 L-16 batteries (undecided). Above, a MX-60 solar
charge controller next to a Link-10 battery monitor
Under the floor, one 95 gallon fresh water tank, and one 95 gallon gray water tank.
Everything insulated with 2 inches of polyurethane insulation (Freezer/Frig 5 inches.)
shows the current pop-up "hole", and the surrounding line of pink insulation shows where I'm building the new permanent roof out to. Between the old roof and the new roof will be storage all along the left and right sides, probably using curtains as a cover. Only light
stuff will be stored up here.
shows the new roof. Vents for the toilet, heater, stove, antenna for the satellite radio, and (most important to me) a 4800 B.T.U. 24 volt DC air conditioner
keeping the interior under 70 degrees F even if it's 135 degrees outside.
Finally, to power it all, eight 195 watt BP-SX3195 solar
panels giving me a peak output of almost 1600 Watts. To make all these panels fit, I have a custom mount described further down.
To support all this, and have something I can tow down the worst 4WD roads, I needed a new frame, made of 2" X 4" X 1/4" steel.
shows the new frame and solar panel
mount (unpainted as of yet) without the panels mounted. This is the travel position. Also shown is the large wheels that allow for tons of clearance under the frame, and room for the two huge 95 gallon tanks that fit just fore and aft of the axle
shows the half-deployed position. The winch (or linear actuator, described later) pulls the top rack vertical, parallel with the front rack. A pin is dropped in to hold the two racks together, making one big rack. The locking pin is shown in more detail Picture 11
show the the bottom half of the rack fully deployed by opening the two wings on each side. Do the same for the top rack and it can then be tiled to either a fixed angle, or using a linear actuator can track the sun in the E/W axis. More on that later.
shows the rack from another angle, horizontal in this case.
and Picture 10
show the detail of the hinges. stainless washers are welded into any location where there is metal to metal rubbing.
Finally, Picture 12
shows how the 36" linear actuator will be mounted between the diagonal brace and the rear hinge of the top rack. Controlling the actuator will be the $50 Redrok Energy Solar Tracker
. With actuator, I won't need the winch to deploy the array, and the tracking will gain me 10% more energy production vs a fixed angle.
Anyway, that's where I'm at now.
PS: Forgot about the shower. A marine deck fill with push-up cap
leads to the gray water tank via a short length of hose to form a water trap. A shower basin with a small nipple on the bottom, is placed over the deck fill, and a curtain is hung. Problem solved.
PPS: Forgot about some fiberglass work. I'm removing the front window, and the wheel wells.