So I am 4 weeks into a complete gut and redo of a 1700 Boler
. Going for a custom floor plan (basically copying the Boler
that Camper Repairadise did) with queen bed and dinette in the rear and 2 stacked bunks on the street side, Closet on the curb side next to the door and galley at the front.
I have removed the interior to the hull, patched leaking belly band seam from the inside and replaced all new wiring (excluding running lights
which were fine). I have fiberglassed over the 2 roof vents as well as furnace
vent holes (job from hell coming up on the body work). I have removed all mounting tabs not needed in the new floor plan and filled the hull holes with Fiberglass from the inside and epoxy in the holes from the outside.
My plan is to go with potable water and no grey. I will drain the sink through the floor and use a portable grey tank. I will keep the original grey tank in place but abandon it for now - may reconnect in the future - but I doubt it. I want this trailer to be a summer unit with simple functions. For Hot water I think I will use a portable coleman for now and could add a tankless under the sink in future (wiring is there).
I am about 70% through reflectix install inside (Elmers Contact cement brush on) and aluminum tape on the joints. I am using Sailrite hull liner to cover over the reflectix. For word work, I am going to use a mix of 5/8" and 3/4" Solid beech ply. I am going to try to use as many of the remaining anchor points as I can and will likely have to glass some plinths to the walls for the bunks and kitchen cabinets where no angle anchors are riveted in existing.
On the exterior, I am going to use a matte finish vinyl wrap. Should last 5-10 years, adds another layer of water protection (rivets are covered) and is cost effective. There will be seams on the radius corners, but it should be un-noticable for the most part I hope.
Here are a few questions:
1. It seems i have a bad joint at the belly band at the door. There was a hokey piece of aluminum angle there. Any advice as to how to fix?
2. It would seem to make sense to install the hull liner before the cabinetry, but I think it would be easier to install the woodwork first and hull liner last so it stays fresh and clean. Any advice here? I suppose I could adjust the radius cuts on the wordwork by 1/8" to allow for the hull liner and reinstall the new wood work at the end, but I would rather stain the wood in place in the trailer... advice?
3. My hitch ball locking tongue is wore out. It doesn't seem to be catching the ball properly and allowing the trailer to bounce on the hitch which is no good. These dont seem to be replaceable parts. Do I need to cut the hitch off and replace the entire thing or is there another option? this seems like a welding job...
I have more questions but they can wait!
A few pics are at my blog space:
Boler Rebuild: Progress Pics Oct 10