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03-12-2006, 06:04 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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It's just one of those standard "under the counter" models from Best Buy. The Screen flips up into the unit when not in use. It's kinds pricy at $200 but well worth it.
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03-12-2006, 06:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel Dlx / 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4
Posts: 1,125
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Cool!!!
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03-12-2006, 06:24 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Posts: 319
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Damn! That is a really neat little unit. I just checked Best Buy and the US branches are all sold out and the Canadian branches don't even list it. Oh Wo is me!
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03-12-2006, 06:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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$200 seems a VERY good price for all that. I have used Phillips webcams, very good quality. Hopefully they follow suit with these.
Is it strictly 120v?
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03-12-2006, 07:07 PM
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#5
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Quote:
$200 seems a VERY good price for all that. I have used Phillips webcams, very good quality. Hopefully they follow suit with these.
Is it strictly 120v?
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Unfortunately yes, but you could always install an inverter.
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03-12-2006, 07:09 PM
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#6
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Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 51
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Quote:
Damn! That is a really neat little unit. I just checked Best Buy and the US branches are all sold out and the Canadian branches don't even list it. Oh Wo is me!
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I have seen these units on the market with various retail stores for quite some time. You'll find one. Google it.
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03-12-2006, 09:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Con:
Home Depot is where we got ours but I do not use it in the Trillium as you'll see in May when you venture south. I can/have also wired mine into our new P.C. ...just in case the urge hits us!
I prefer to carry (in the closet where many load a micro) a 13in color Akai TV/DVD player combo. I have the trailer wired for cable and phoneline service (as my old internet connection was dial up phone line and totally portable)
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03-12-2006, 10:03 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Posts: 319
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Ok! Thanks for the heads upDoug.
BTW I don't think we are going to make it down for your gathering. Our farm sale is finalized and we have to be out by May 13th or may be before. We made a quick trip to Armstrong 3 weeks ago, made an offer on a house and it got scooped from under us. As soon as we got back home my wife had a full hip replacement. I am head care giver for awhile. Technicly we are now homeless! I am trying to get stuff packed also. Once we get a new home I hope to have time to go to some of the meets.
I found that there are at least 4 or 5 other makes of these type of uints.
http://stores.tomshardware.com/search_getp...erid=13942802//
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03-12-2006, 10:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Posts: 319
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Take a boo at some of these onj the Amazon site
* Sony ICF-DVD57TV Under Cabinet LCD-TV / DVD / CD Clock Radio Other products by Sony
* Audiovox VE920 Ultra-Slim Drop-Down LCD TV with DVD/CD/MP3 Player Other products by Audiovox Electronics
* Polaroid FDM-0700A 7" Under-The-Cabinet LCD TV/DVD Combo Other products by Polaroid
* GPX KCLD8815DT Under-Cabinet 7-Inch Widescreen LCD TV with DVD Player and AM/FM/Weatherband Radio Other products by GPX, Inc.
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03-13-2006, 10:03 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
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For those of you that have access to a Sams Club or Costco, they both had them for a while. I believe one was a Phillips and not sure what the other one was. Maybe an Audio Vox. The 7" was around $250. At one time, one of them had a larger one (a 10" ?) but it was around $350. Still, not all that bad.
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03-13-2006, 11:04 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 15 ft
Posts: 152
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Now I know why I held off installing a stereo in the trailer, I was waiting for this combination unit. I want one! I want one!
Thanks for the heads up.
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03-13-2006, 01:17 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Posts: 319
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Same here ken, I was thinking of installing the AM/FM/Sterio player but when I priced them out here they were $385 Can. Those units are a much better value for your dollar.
Man, I will be gald when we can get out of this town, we pay through the nose for everthing!
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03-13-2006, 02:33 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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The data sheet for the Philips model says it wants 12v input. Hmmm. There might be the possibility of making up a 12v plug. Can't find where it says how many amps it wants, however. Still, it looks like a nice unit.
I wonder if there is a way to secure the screen during travel so it won't shake all over the place, possibly loosening it.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/c...RCSHQNHKFSESI5P
__________________
Without adult supervision...
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Also,
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.
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03-13-2006, 03:12 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Burro 17 ft Widebody
Posts: 868
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Steve;
I wanted my Sharp LCDTV to use 12v directly to avoid inverter losses and the buzzy waveforms from the converter. It did not come with a 12v cable, just a brick. I checked with Sharp and they confirmed that 12v and up to 14v or so would work fine.
The problem was to make up a cable, which I did, but not before searching high and low for the correct little plug going into the TV. Found it at Radio Shock eventually, but it seems there are several variations on the same theme and the plugs look almost the same. By the way, I have junked the cigarette-lighter type 12v outlets (horrors) for some Speakon plugs.
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03-13-2006, 04:10 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Per reminds us of a couple good points. Many devices report on the back that they want 12v DC input. It's good to check on the actual range of acceptable voltages. While recharging the batteries, the batteries, and thus the plug sockets will see about 13.6v DC.
And if you have a battery charger that de-sulfates the battery, you'll see an even higher voltage. Usually, one should disconnect any 12v appliances during de-sulfication. (Even a turned off unit is using some small amount of current to maintain radio presets and the clock and alarms.)
Many devices intended for 12v usage from the start will tolerate quite a range. But 12v from a 120v brick might be better regulated.
I've seen 12v plugs with an internal "regulator" to keep the output to 12v. I should have bookmarked the address. My vague recollection was that this was in relationship to those units that plug into a socket and output a variety of voltages according to how you set a switch. The specifications will say whether the 12v is regulated, or whether in it's 12v state it'll just pass through what it's getting at the socket.
As I type this, I did a little side trip over to the Shack. The owner's manual for this device says that the 12v output is regulated and it comes with a number of adapters.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...995&tab=support
If you thought to go this route and you can't find out the tolerance range for the device, I'd go for one of the regulated multi voltage units. They usually have a variety of plugs to choose from. Pay attention to "tip positive" or "tip negative".
Note that I suggest you would use this device plugged in to shore power or not. Why carry an adapter and a brick both. Or a brick and an inverter both.
Personally, I'm slightly averse to inverters and their (usually) 10% wasted energy.
As for 12v plugs and receptacles, I use Marinco marine units when I add a socket. The receptacles have a couple "dents" on the inside into which the Marinco plug "ears" will catch into and keep the plug firmly attached. Plus, the plugs have a rubber seal around the body to seal the plug against the weather and to help hold them in place. You just rotate the plug 90 degrees and pull to remove the plug. The plugs work no worse than ordinary plugs in other sockets.
__________________
Without adult supervision...
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Also,
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.
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03-13-2006, 04:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
The data sheet for the Philips model says it wants 12v input. Hmmm. There might be the possibility of making up a 12v plug. Can't find where it says how many amps it wants, however...
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The 12V possibility is good news.
The specifications in the Directions for Use on the Philips Product Support page say the power consumption is about 30W, which would be about two and a half amps.
Quote:
...The problem was to make up a cable, which I did, but not before searching high and low for the correct little plug going into the TV. Found it at Radio Shock eventually, but it seems there are several variations on the same theme and the plugs look almost the same. By the way, I have junked the cigarette-lighter type 12v outlets (horrors) for some Speakon plugs.
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I have used a universal cord from Radio Shack (affectionately known as Radio Shock, and now officially known as The Source by Circuit City) for a battery charger. They have a system of multiple tips (to match the various size possibilities of these generally similar coaxial or "barrel" connectors) which connect to the cord with two pins and can be rotated (to either polarity). The chance of plugging the thing together wrong always concerns me, so with a piece of equipment worth this much, I would use a voltmeter to compare my cord setup to the original equipment AC-to-DC adapter, then glue the right tip on to the cord. That universal cord was about $6.
I share Per's dislike of lighter sockets. In addition to the Speakon plugs, Powerpoles have also been recommended in this forum, but I haven't put anything in my Boler yet.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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03-13-2006, 04:42 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
...I wonder if there is a way to secure the screen during travel so it won't shake all over the place, possibly loosening it.
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Some believe that almost all problems can be solved by duct tape, baling wire, or bungee cords. Duct tape leaves a sticky residue, and baling wire isn't springy enough for the bumps, so I vote for bungee cords!
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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03-13-2006, 05:04 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
...As for 12v plugs and receptacles, I use Marinco marine units when I add a socket. The receptacles have a couple "dents" on the inside into which the Marinco plug "ears" will catch into and keep the plug firmly attached. Plus, the plugs have a rubber seal around the body to seal the plug against the weather and to help hold them in place. You just rotate the plug 90 degrees and pull to remove the plug. The plugs work no worse than ordinary plugs in other sockets.
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Steve, is this the Marinco Sealink system, as found from various marine suppliers such as these...? They look like they might be a good compromise between using the inherently defective lighter plug, and using something which no common 12VDC appliance would connect to with its stock plug.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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03-13-2006, 06:00 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Brian,
Yes, those are the units. I added one in the foot well of the dinette for portable gadgets used while at the table and another outside, street side, that gives me direct access to the back of the fuse panel. I use that one for my occasional use of the macerator pump. I've snipped off the OE plug on any number of devices and replaced them with the Marinco plug. Depends on whether the OE plug has a tendency to creep out of the socket, or if I'm likely to be tugging on the device. For example, on the boat I replaced the end of one of those mega candlepower hand spotlights.
I also have, but have not installed, the trolling motor plug and socket (shown just below the plugs we're talking about) which I intend, someday to plug a second external battery into. Currently (pun intended) I put the second battery in covered battery box and I installed a Bargman 7 pin socket on the top. I just plug the trailer into it when boondocking. It's like having a 200-ish amp hour battery. I wonder sometimes that it's just recharging the onboard battery but I'm not sure I care so long as amp hours are going into the system somehow. Anyhoo, this 2nd battery side trip is a little off topic.
__________________
Without adult supervision...
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Also,
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.
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03-13-2006, 07:47 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 614
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We've had this Audiovox VE-1020 for a couple of years now. The factory lock that held the screen up did break but it was nothing velcro couldn't fix. TV works great with the satellite, DVD is also very good, radio is fair and would probably benefit from a better antenna, never used the speaker phone option.
Al
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