Undoing Mods of Prior Owner - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-16-2015, 12:22 PM   #1
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 16, previously Scamp 13
Posts: 729
Undoing Mods of Prior Owner

Just wondering if someone has a method of patching screw holes in the fibreglass furniture from previous owner mods.

Also, ideas on this prior mod. I don't like it, since it prevents one from sitting at the back of the dinette. I've also bumped my head on these shelves a couple of times - it hurts.

The gentleman I bought it from said they used these shelves for dry goods storage, but I think I will probably want to remove them. They were originally to hold a TV, VCR, DVD or some such electronics.

They are VERY secure, and if I remove them will have to patch holes in the shell from the L-brackets that were used. I'm assuming the best way would be to just drill out the existing rivets, remove the brackets, then replace with new rivets to fill the holes?

Anyone have any ideas to dress them up in the mean time?

Also going will be the "wiring" that service these shelves. It actually consists of an extension cord from an outlet in the bathroom, passing through the stove/sink cabinet, then through the driver side bench and up the wall to the shelf. A second extension cord runs from this shelf, up through the overhead, rear cabinet and to the passenger side shelf. Probably not the safest way to wire your Scamp.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:46 PM   #2
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,087
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JB Weld

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Old 11-16-2015, 12:52 PM   #3
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,912
Patching will assure that it will always look like a patch job was done. Drill out the rivets and replace with new rivets using the same caps from SCAMP as are already all over the outside of the trailer. No one will ever notice. Scamp sells replacement rivets and caps for a perfect match. Look on the SCAMP site for the parts department.

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Old 11-16-2015, 01:16 PM   #4
Name: Martin
Trailer: 1993 CASITA 16SD
Posts: 39
White JB Weld has worked well for me. Hardens in a few minutes; cures in about 4 - 6 hours. I mix it wearing nitrile gloves and push plenty into the hole, then flatten it off with a file after it hardens. I finish it off with my rotary tool. You have to look hard to see it.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:35 PM   #5
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Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 7,539
I have found that screw holes are best disguised by using a screw or pop rivet an a snap cap. Who's gonna notice one more?
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:25 PM   #6
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,429
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
I have found that screw holes are best disguised by using a screw or pop rivet an a snap cap. Who's gonna notice one more?

Yepper. What he said.
If the rivet shows too badly on the inside you can dress up with an acorn nut as is done on the kitchen cabinets OR put your thinking cap on. Figure out something you want or that would look good in that spot.

You can attach wood trim by drilling it to accept a rivet with a snug hole from the back. Expanding rivet binds in the wood hole and pulls it tight.

So many choices to cover the inside from nothing because rivet is short enough it does not come through inner liner to bar/hook to hang fly swatter on to a piece of decorative wood trim that is just for looks.
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:26 PM   #7
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 16, previously Scamp 13
Posts: 729
Floyd and Bob,

Yeah, that was my first thought. I did a closer exam, and see that he used small bolts and nuts to attach the brackets for the shelves. He does have them covered with snap caps on the outside, though. When I remove these, I'll probably put a rivet with new caps on to hide these holes.

Martin and Darwin,

I have several drill holes in the upper kitchen cabinets and will have some more in the rear cabinet if I remove these shelves. I'll give the JB Weld a try on these interior jobs, if the test ones come out to my satisfaction, then I'll patch them all this way.

Does the JB Weld shrink as it cures, or can it be worked smooth as it's applied. I don't have a grinder, so will probably be smoothing by hand.

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Old 11-16-2015, 02:31 PM   #8
Name: Dale
Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 80
I'd throw a piece of tape on the inside of the hole, and then fill/skim coat with some body filler before painting. JB gets quite hard and may be difficult to sand by hand.
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:14 AM   #9
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Name: Phil
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500 (previously a 1978 Trillium 4500, Rpod 171 and Surveyor SV251)
Nova Scotia
Posts: 225
I vote for a screw or rivet. I've done it myself and no one but me knows its just there to disguise a hole.

77 Trillium 4500
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